Pinctada Maculata (Pipi) Pearls

[SteveM]

I'm away from my desk but recollection brings the term 'gold caps' (?) for the pearls on a white gold chain, interdispersed with bevel-cut diamonds (no discussion as yet regarding preferred or most efficient diamond origin). Re white cultured drop: this idea came about as a deliberate reference to La Peregrina, given the natural poe pipi feel and my wife's Spanish origin. (Tie in: The Cooks were 'discovered' by Spain 200 years before Captain Cook arrived on the scene!).

NO shells!! [shiver]

Steve

Cultured diamond? ... synthetic diamond ?

'Directly on chain' means 'buttercup' or drops? (no threading through, right)

White metal (palladium... platinum - no big deal for a chain but sounds good) seems the right fit given the subtle colors of the pearls.

 

[Valeria101]

I'm away from my desk but recollection brings the term 'gold caps' (?) for the pearls on a white gold chain, interdispersed with bevel-cut diamonds (no discussion as yet regarding preferred or most efficient diamond origin).

That sure does sound classic Is diamond origin a matter to discus?

Re white cultured drop: this idea came about as a deliberate reference to La Peregrina, given the natural poe pipi feel and my wife's Spanish origin. (Tie in: The Cooks were 'discovered' by Spain 200 years before Captain Cook arrived on the scene!).

Insofar, the reassuring form of gem set chain with a large pearl drop comes together. Only it would not be a 'long chain' but a short - judging from the number of pearls. The thought of 'caps' on small pearls makes me wonder a bit; even on the simple design, there sure are enough details for the Devil to crawl in (cap for the large pearl, diamond settings, clasp... ), but this is for the jeweler to worry about.

Could the Pipi drop be made interchangeable between its current leaf setting and the new pearl & diamond chain? Although, a larger cultured one makes even better sense.

Re. Peregrina: ... Any chance the jeweler who produced the setting of the large Pipi drop pearl wanted to hint at the current Peregrina setting (the old leaf shaped part, not Cartier's construction)? The outline sort of matches... of all things. ...shudder I know it is feasible without a time machine, if that idea ever comes up on the agenda again.

NO shells!! [shiver]

Steve

Funny that! A previous post made me think of some very down to the bone ethnic design... and hinted to some extreme concept that bridges the gap between Cook Island traditional things and modern fine jewelry - that's how the shells of Schepps and Verdura came up. Nevermind ...

 

[SteveM]

Your comments are invaluable as we go through the concept maturation process. Certainly before a new design is approved personal tastes will require definition. To reiterate my original post, I have come to love pearls in and of themselves via poe pipi and have heretofore been immune to the jewelry bug altogether. A steep curve lies ahead!

The creator of Te Poe is a known and respected jeweler with a deep regard for tradition. We do feel confident in his hands. Design proposals to date are so much chaff against the wind, however, waiting to see what may fall (the short chain does appear to be a certainty).

Our primary desire is to acquire the pearls in as direct and uncompromised manner possible. How or whether diamonds are incorporated will require detailed proposal and careful study.

Leaf pendant with 13mm pipi drop: We do intend to convert the drop into an enhancer, to be worn in its current configuration, as a simple drop pendant, or as a necklace centerpiece. But we are awaiting a detailed history of the piece prior to touching it?the original craftsman is being contacted and hopefully we'll discover the precise link with the Royal Collection piece it replicates (maybe it also has a name?). As mentioned in that post, it is a different Cook Islands source from Te Poe. But it occurs to me that we might challenge Te Poe's creator to delve into his treasures once more for a pipi drop of comparable size, or accept this one for adaptation. This would not preclude the larger cultured drop as an alternate enhancer, allowing for mood (?).

Steve

 

[pattye]

Hi again Steve,

An interesting and somewhat tricky challenge. A necklace respectful of the rarity and exquisiteness of these unique pearls, that will somehow communicate that through its configuration. No tin-cup for sure. I'm not a diamond fan, except in the tiniest finest pave. Perhaps something with colored diamonds, again very tiny but fully faceted, of course. And then there is Sapphire with all it's glorious colors---How would these pearls look against 22k gold? I am guessing the 22k color might be stunning on your wife. Twenty-two karat can have a wonderful rich glow, but not the glaring shine. I have a 22k pendant with granulation and keshi pearls bezel set.
It appears your 10 new pearls haven't been drilled yet. Glad I don't have that job! Just a few thoughts, keep us posted!

Pattye

 

[Valeria101]

... I'm not a diamond fan, except in the tiniest finest pave. Perhaps something with colored diamonds, ...

Let me see if I'm guessing this right, Pattye: you know of these guys, right? Maybe micro-pave has shed a bit of its good old fame, but the original thing hods its own ... as opposed to the disposable high tech replacements.

The size and color of the pearls makes the task easier, IMO - they fit in with traditional natural pearl designs (unlike most cultured keshi, say) and there are decades of natural pearl jewelry that have already solved the problem. A quick update should do. Maybe something like the sketch below? Basically, wouldn't bother much adding anything stony, just try to get everything right... which seems to be the idea anyway.

 

[SteveM]

Appreciate the comments and especially metal suggestions (although somewhat disappointed to see nothing more about shells here?!). Valeria101 your effort to produce a sketch is fantastic, although I don't see it posted on my screen.

Steve

 

[SteveM]

Had a great exchange in recent days with Bo Torrey, owner/editor of Pearl World, upon confirming our new subscription. What a character! Seems he 'discovered' pearls at a similar moment in life to my own. So there's hope.

Upon receipt of my first back issue (Jan-Mar 2007) you can imagine my surprise and delight to see a feature piece on the Cook Islands…

Pearl-Guide.com has inserted a full page ad that features an abalone pearl we purchased from Pearl Paradise (sourced by Jeremy Norris). As we were told this pearl was found on Santa Catalina Island we have christened it 'La Catalina', with the blessing of both Jeremys. It's just as striking in person!

We have news from the Cooks today that an ideal South Seas drop has been found in a private Australian collection to serve as the centerpiece of our new poe pipi necklace. A full range of design options has been discussed—including suggestions from this thread—and work will procede soon.

Steve
Seattle

Here is subscription information for Pearl World taken from elsewhere on Pearl-Guide.com:

An overseas subscription to PEARL WORLD for one year is US$150.00. One for domestic U.S.A. is US$130. AMERICAN EXPRESS, MASTERCARD and VISA credit cards are accepted.

Most back issues are available at US$10 per copy.

Address: 5501 North Seventh Avenue / PMB 331/ Phoenix , Arizona 85013-1775 / USA . Telephone: XXX-(602) 678-5799. Facsimile: XXX- (602) 678-6799. E-mail address: PearlWorldJournal@gmail.com

 

[mikehrz]

I was fortunate enough to see "La Catalina" in person last time I was at PearlParadise. It really defies description. I had never seen an abalone pearl in person, and the luster and orient were simply exquisite. The shape is also very unique. I am very curious to see how it fits into the final design!

 

[Valeria101]

We have news from the Cooks today that an ideal South Seas drop has been found in a private Australian collection to serve as the centerpiece of our new poe pipi necklace. A full range of design options has been discussed?including suggestions from this thread?and work will proceed soon.

Sounds great! How does it look?

Sorry for the missing image up the thread - should be able to retrieve them from another computer later today and re-post.

 

[Valeria101]

I was fortunate enough to see "La Catalina" in person ... The shape is also very unique.

Yes! So impressive!

In the picture attached here it reminds me strongly of the keel of a sailboat ... and the habit of figurative jewelry built around natural pearls, of course.

 

[SteveM]

For us, acquisition of La Catalina was a repeat of our good timing with Te Poe Pipi O Te Kuki Airani. It is a special pearl, and Valeria101 echoes our thoughts that a maritime theme is lurking there somewhere. But let's remove this discussion to a new thread under 'Other Pearls' called 'Haliotus (Abalone) General'.

Looking forward to valuable input!

Re design for new poe pipi necklace: Some wriggle room remains (look forward to sketch!) but the aim is a classic, timeless look that will be highly dependent upon execution, as suggested previously in this thread. Use of diamonds will be minimal for accent. From our standpoint, we really want to feature the pearls, and we are confident this is the jeweler's intent as well.

Steve

 

[SteveM]

Monopolizing my own thread?but I guess that's the host's privilege, right? In any case, received the attached photo from the Cooks at the office today, showing the pearl layout of the 6-7mm poe pipi and the 13mm South Seas drop discovered in Australia last week (quite a good example of 'water'?outer 1mm seems to float!).

Chain will be platinum to allow all golden shades for the pearls.

Not sure what else we can discuss here until the work is done, but certainly all comments are welcome!

Steve

 

[Caitlin]

Monopolizing my own thread—but I guess that's the host's privilege, right?

Yes indeed. It is a privilege to have such an important necklace chronicled here and I can hardly wait to see how La Catalina evolves.

Here is a picture of a scale model of a Persian Gulf pearling dhow. See if it is inspiring....

 

[SteveM]

Thanks for the dhow, Caitlin.

Meanwhile, this thread is approaching 1000 views and in light of continuing interest I have some additional poe pipi news and insights.

In post #1 I surmised "Certainly in the cultured world of size-is-everything, I can understand that these rare, albeit smallish pearls may suffer a certain sort of underappreciation." As an edible pearl oyster often the insignificantly small pearls were more a nuisance than value (like the seeds in an orange) in comparison with the shells themselves. Here's a bit of literature I discovered just today (can't believe I have previously missed it—must not have been on line).

"PIPI PEARLS"​

Pipis don't grow pearls
I know that
Ocean wading
My feet feel for them instead
Digging this way and that
Evicting seaward indigenous inhabitants
Colonising my flax pipi basket
Soon to be
Fritters to fatten my urban prince

Poem by Simon Inez Harriman of New Zealand
Published October 2005 on PoemHunter.com

…making the special conditions that traditionally existed on the remote island of Penryhn/Tongareva—source of the 1700 3.5mm pipis in Te Poe Pipi O Te Kuki Airani, the 9.6x13mm drop in post #10, and the 10 poe 6.5-8mm chosen for the new necklace—all the more remarkable!

Photo here of a cleaned, typically sized P. Maculata shell with attached (quite large!) pipi pearl we acquired as an instructional complement to the other pieces.

Steve
Seattle

 

[Valeria101]

Attached image is a trophy we came back with, 1700 pipis 3-3.5mm collected in the 1970s, on 12 strands and 18k handmade clasp...

COINCIDENCE, I know... but too close not to post.

The price appears quite dated, if you look at more recent results from the same source.

 

[SteveM]

Thanks, that is super interesting. I wonder if any of the golden-toned naturals are pipis (will forward to the Cooks). This also foments a lingering desire to see Te Poe worn with the clasp in front, adding a pearl or diamond enhancer (or adding colored stones to the clasp) for additional sparkle.

Steve

 

[SteveM]

Here is word from the Cook Islands regarding the beautiful necklace sold at Sotheby's posted by Valeria101 on 2/28:

"Yes, this is intriguing, they certainly look like naturals, potentially from us! We used to supply to the East in quantity as you know, perhaps these are some of them! That being the case, the strand was probably created in India and on-sold. Seem to be rather a lot of gold beads but seems that this was a good buy, especially with the argyle diamonds...very lucky bidder!"


Look forward to further discoveries/comments.

Steve
Seattle

 

[SteveM]

A day on Penrhyn/Tongareva in 1995 reported by a Mr. Kelvin Passfield in PEARL OYSTER INFORMATION BULLETIN, #10, 8/97 (extract from a 100-pp document attached. Drag image to screen and print to read). Since then several major hurricanes and global warming/tidal changes have greatly reduced the harvest. But it still seems amazing that as recently as 1995 such activity could be witnessed.

Tried contacting Mr. Passfield to see if he was still following the subject, but Email address given in the article was not surprisingly invalid.


Steve
Seattle

 

[SteveM]

An update on the progress of the new necklace (Post #37), with news just received from the jeweller:

"Have finalized design for your new necklace (and named) ... I am very pleased, will use a 'double chain' construction as I was a little frustrated at the look of a single chain, that problem has now been overcome. Lends a lot more exotic, historical perspective to the piece, it will move beautifully."

A prominent village elder, or Taunga, was consulted for an appropriate Maori name, traditional in the Cook Islands for unique pieces:

"I consulted with my cultural advisor, (this guy is truly amazing, I am part sponsoring a book he is writing on CI Culture, he possesses so much knowledge it is just incredible)...and I explained what I was thinking and he has provided a name. I want to write a brief description for you before I tell you, please indulge me."

The new necklace will be hand-delivered to Seattle in late May. We look forward to unveiling it here, and to introducing its maker (and that of Te Poe Pipi O Te Kuki Airani) to forum members. We are hopeful he would become a contributor and additional resource.

Steve
Seattle

 

[Valeria101]

Awesome! I am looking forward to see the finished necklace!

Sorry for the unfulfilled promise upwards on this thread 9the missing sketch, that is). A computer crash wiped out most of my files and didn't ever get to make up for the loss...