Natural White Hanadama Akoyas? Over-bleached or truly untreated?

cvanavi

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Joined
Jul 23, 2012
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Hi Everyone,

I'm confused regarding the "Natural White Hanadamas" sold by Pearl Paradise. From the description on their website, it seems the pearls do not go through the additional dying/pinking process. However, on Yokota's website, he states that natural untreated akoyas have to slight yellowish color. All akoyas must therefore go through a bleaching process. Yokota states that "Natural White" akoyas are actually bleached a bit more than the akoyas selected to be dyed and this extra bleaching is harmful to the longevity of the pearls.

Please advise. Who do I believe? I'm confused!

Thanks,
Christie
 
Well, I believe Jeremy. If he says they are untreated, they are. He knows a lot about all kinds of pearls, Yakota is ethnocentric and has a strong bias, to say the least.

They aren't all yellow. What about the blue ones? They come in a range of colors, most of which do not survive processing.

I was not overly impressed by Yakota in his descriptions of several things. I found his website to be of uneven quality in the facts- and high prices in the pearls. Just my opinion, others have bought from him.

Top quality non-mikimoto Japanese pearls are an elite market and a small market compared to the rest of the pearl world. And several people on this forum operate in those same circles as Yakota, he does not have anything others are not also privy to.

You may know that Akoya pearls are almost genetically identical to the Persian gulf oysters, so I am not surprised many are creamy.
The difference is the natural Persian Gulf pearls were not bleached as an ideal, but wore their natural colors proudly.

Japan, influenced by Mikimoto, has decided that bleached white with a rose tint should be the standard, and made it so. It is about as natural as a bleached blond or false fingernails, painted red. Not only that, the Japanese often seem rather tense about the idea of less processing because that white with pink tinge ideal is deeply rooted in the culture.

And now it is the world standard for akoyas. But it doesn't have to be.

Yakota just needs to wake up and smell the unbleached akoyas. What he wants to believe and preach may not be the absolute truth. In fact he always says "most", not "all" on his website. That leaves an opening big enough to drive a truck full of unbleached pearls through.
 
The Persian Gulf is also now producing cultured pearls- they actually have what seems to be a fairly large farm. None of the pearls look treated, I am sure that aspect will appeal to many, if those pearls ever come on the open market!

Bleaching really does strip the protein in the hair -and in pearls. It makes both more porous, which may be why akoyas so often yellow with age. And it is never as pretty as the original cream color. I mean, calling them "yellow" is prejudicial in itself! I do think the skins of the unbleached pearls have more intrinsic integrity, much like unbleached hair. Both smell the same when burned!
 
I was under impression that "natural" in case of white Akoyas mean that they were not "pinked". Bleaching is not considered a "treatment", but rather a part of cleaning process so calling those not pinked ones "natural" is referring to the color... Please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Imanit, You may want to read pearl treatments defined.
https://www.pearl-guide.com/pearl-treatments.shtml

Quote from Pearl Paradise site :"Over the years, we have added many different pieces to our hanadama pearl jewelry line, including the natural white hanadama line featuring pearls that have not gone through the traditional pinking process. We are proud to be the only company in the United States to carry this new line of hanadama akoya pearls, and each certificate indicates that these special pearls have no evidence of color edition."

No color addition.... bleaching is not mentioned.

For Akoya pearls bleaching and pinking is never mentioned... unless to inform the potential buyer that there was treatments. No mention = treatment were done as a regular, accepted procedure.

This is MY understanding on pearl industry language...
 
Thanks for clarifying the difference. It was really confusing.

So now, my follow up question is: do the "natural white" akoyas go through a more intensive bleaching procedure than the pinked akoyas?
 
Thanks for clarifying the difference. It was really confusing.

So now, my follow up question is: do the "natural white" akoyas go through a more intensive bleaching procedure than the pinked akoyas?


I'm sure they are not! It would kill the luster and make nacre brittle. To be certified Hanadama, they have to be top quality!
 
Please look at post 10 Jeremy wrote about Blaire's strand of Natural color Hanadama pearls.
https://www.pearl-guide.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3934&page=1

found it!

Jeremy wrote:
"I am confused when you state that you knew it wasn't pinked. Pinking is as universal as bleaching with akoya pearls, and it is a non-disclosed treatment. The only way we are able to prove the natural whites have not been pinked is because it is stated in a special line in the PSL lab certificate. That is what makes the natural white hanadamas different. They have not been bleached, nor have they been pinked.
Jeremy Shepherd
President and Founder
PearlParadise.com, Inc.

... I stand corrected....no pinking , no bleaching on his natural hanadamas!

It would be more clear if he would add it on his website where he talks about "not pinking"
 
Thank you Ivonna and LFsox, you both added a lot to this thread.

However, I would point out that the bleaching is limited to akoyas and the FW that want to look like akoyas. Even in akoyas, gold and blue strands aren't bleached. Nor are Tahitians to my understanding, or Paspaley SS at least, and Sea of Cortez pearls. None of them are bleached. Natural color Freshwaters are not bleached, and I am pretty sure those fw metallics are not bleached. And I'll bet those new cultured pearls from the Persian Gulf will not be bleached either.

Maeshori is only applied to pearls going through Japan, correct? And Japan has made that bleached look the standard because it makes it easy to match the pearls. It does not have to be that way. It is that way because Japan has decided so, and that decision was based on their standards of beauty- not mine. The Japanese akoyas have been very successfully marketed as being the standard for all cultured pearls. This is a complete switch from the way natural pearls were regarded and it adds to the artificiality of most akoyas, IMO.

I think there is a slight visual difference in the bleached and unbleached Hanadamas, the unbleached have a bit of that deep water luster, more like SS pearls.

That was a fantastic question and I am glad it was asked.
 
Caitlin, I found this post by Jeremy about the treatments used to get the chocolate color in Tahitians:

"Chocolate Tahitians are treated. There are naturals, but strands are very rare and they don't typically have the same solid, consistent color of a treated strand. Also, they are either bleached or treated with dye. The bleaching is a proprietary treatment done by one company in Japan. The vast majority of them are now treated with dye.

They should always be described as such - treated, color enhanced, etc."


https://www.pearl-guide.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5155&p=80135#post80135
 
Oh HO! So it is the Japanese who do the bleaching? Heh heh. I forgot about those.

I guess most every pearl that goes though Japan gets treated. As for the dye, that is true for some SS gold pearls too. Maybe for a lot of them. I remember Elisabeth Strack gave a lecture on detecting dyes during the AGTA show of 2008. She had slides showing dyes pooling up in divots, being uneven in color and other little tricks to look for. Streaks and others I can't recall at the moment. but they often reveal themselves with a good loupe. I bet dying has improved since 2008!
 
There is also a proprietary treatment that involves bleaching, followed by heating. It makes it hard to find evidence of treatment, but if you have a perfectly matched strand of chocolate Tahitians, then you can assume they are treated.
 
I was under impression that "natural" in case of white Akoyas mean that they were not "pinked". Bleaching is not considered a "treatment", but rather a part of cleaning process so calling those not pinked ones "natural" is referring to the color... Please correct me if I'm wrong.

It's gets wrapped into a process called "maeshori" or "pre-treatment". IMHO natural white Akoya's look alot like what silver akoya's would look like if they were bleached.

Raw akoya pearls are often off-white, they get treated/pre-treated to clean up the surface and stabilize the color. The pearls may then be re-tone to restore/enhance the rose overtone that was lost during treatment/pre-treatment. The cleaning process may or may not involve bleaching agents such as peroxide or UV-Vis light, and it may or may not be described as bleaching.

If pearls are sold as being "natural" and without treatment, it may be because all of the processing work was considered to be "pre-treatment", and thus no treatment is declared. Even Jeremy has talked about maeshori. IMHO this is what Mr Yokota is getting at.

The whole process and chemistry is very proprietary, if done properly very hard/impossible to detect, and not disclosed to people outside of the processing companies.

Personally I think this is a useless controversy, what matters is if you have good looking pearls.
 
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First off, Iamanit's next post revealed her newly found discovery of what Jeremy actually said, so quoting it was way behind where the discussion is now. I guess you didn't read further before you answered.

Also, I think it is very important to understand these things when they come up. This is hardly a useless discussion to many of us. I don't see what the "controversy" is about- this is a discussion and it has unearthed facts for many readers and will continue to do so for years. Arbitrary judgements that dismiss "useless controversies" on a thread, seem to be nothing but a personal attempt at closing a discussion down, and are perhaps better avoided?

Third, Jeremy knows what maeshori is. He has referred to it here, numerous times. He said those pearls were untreated and unbleached. If he said that, they are unbleached and untreated. Yakota may be talking about pre-treatment, but who ever said it applies to these pearls? Yakota himself said maeshori is applied to 90% of the pearls in Japan. Not 100%.

Japan apparently applies maeshori to almost any pearl that enters their land, but other countries also produce very fine thick nacre akoyas such as Vietnam and perhaps other undisclosed places. Most often off white akoyas are gorgeous and do not need treating except that matching perfectly might be harder. To me the matching is very quick when done be experts and all the varying shades of white would enable each strand to have an individuality not appreciated, nor sought after, except by sophisticated buyers. This artificial, bleached platinum then pinked thing is an attempt to dummy down the pearls, not to create a market for their individuality. IMO.

Instead of creating a market for perfectly bleached white, then pinked pearls, Japan could have as easily decided to avoid treatments except cleanup and a bit of oiling. But they seem to have a compulsion to pre-shape every pearl into a match identical to millions of other pearls. IMO, bleaching. whether part of maeshori or not, makes all pearls look more alike and it is not necessary. For instance, SS pearls are not treated unless they go through Japan!, and neither are Sea of Cortez pearls. Nor natural colored freshwater pearls.

The result of mass-produced maeshori-bleached pearls is a machine gun effect of spewing identical, uniform, matching pearls marching off to their destinies on the necks of women striving to display identical, and almost compulsory, symbols of respectability except for size, which in turn ranks them within the group of respectable women.

Most buyers and women have no idea there is an alternative to what the treatment does to the durability of the pearls - unless they come over here to P-G.com!-
 
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I love colored pearls...I wear my non-white FW pearls often, and my white Freshadama pearls only rarely. But I dress casually 99% of the time, and the colors go better with the clothes IMO.

If I were to every decide to save up for a white Akoya strand, I would definitely want to get the natural white, non-bleached ones-- but would I wear them often enough to justify the expense? I'm not so sure about that.
 
Caitlin, until you can sustain the entire pearl industry with your purchases, farmers and processors are going to produce what the vast majority of pearl buyers want, which is pearls and strands that meet classical standards of beauty for pearls.


I'd imagine that if you went to Hong kong, and asked for "Natural White" akoya's most sellers would reach into their flasks and get them for you, along with a wonderful story about natural organic gemstones, pristine waters and every thing else that appeals to the crunchy granola westerner crowd.


Miaow!

Do you want a saucer of milk with that?
 
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