Thread length for double string Pearl necklace?

shephehv

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Hi there! I’m very new to this community and forum, but have enjoyed the content I’ve read. Being a visual learner, I’m still having a hard time estimating how much thread is needed for a necklace with double stringing (love to have more control & tightness around beads!). I understand there are certain algorithms for length of thread for desired necklace length, but what I’m not understanding is where the string gets “folded” (forgive my lack of precise description) and double threading gets started.

It’s easy for me to understand a single thread (start knotting from the bottom, essentially!). Perhaps I just need to fold an entire Griffin cord set in half and see what I come up with?

I’m working on a 21” gemstone necklace at the moment, and have run out of thread from the one side…

Thank you all!
 
I recommend starting with a length of thread that is 5x the expected finished length of the necklace.

Doubling the thread accounts for half of that length, and knots also use up thread. The smaller the pearls, the more pearls (and thus the more knots) for any given necklace length. This is why a necklace made up of smaller pearls will use more thread than a necklace of the same length made up of larger pearls. But 5x the finished length is a good rule of thumb.

You may wish to check out my tutorial on stringing on the Lowly Beaders Club:
 
If you are using griffin type thread for your knotting, why are you doubling it? Just go up in size.
Good question! I wonder the same. I’ve just seen a lot of my knots get really stretched after a few uses when I’ve used single string. I’m using primarily gemstones, which vary in weight too. I’ve read that the double stringing helps to gain better control of the knots and the tightness. I’m working on a gemstone project right now with the technique Lloyd teaches on YouTube and feel more confident with the knots and their sturdiness.
 
I recommend starting with a length of thread that is 5x the expected finished length of the necklace.

Doubling the thread accounts for half of that length, and knots also use up thread. The smaller the pearls, the more pearls (and thus the more knots) for any given necklace length. This is why a necklace made up of smaller pearls will use more thread than a necklace of the same length made up of larger pearls. But 5x the finished length is a good rule of thumb.

You may wish to check out my tutorial on stringing on the Lowly Beaders Club:
Agree, Pearl Dreams, 5x finished length works very well in my experience also. I recommend your detailed knotting tutorial to anyone who purchases thread from me!
 
First of all, I LOVE griffin silk and nylon thread with the built-in needles. I use that thread the most often for my stringing projects. When I run out of thread on the knotting side (because you WILL run out of thread on anything longer than 24" with double strand knotting) here is what I do.
If using beads with large enough holes to accommodate the triple strand of thread, move to the next step.
1. If stringing pearls with a smaller drill hole, carefully cut the "end" knot (what will be the end of your strand holding the pearls waiting to be knotted) and pull the remainder of pearls/beads off the thread onto your stringing board. If your end piece is really short, consider working the knot out of the string so you won't run too short on this end.) Once the remaining beads are laying on your beading board in order, take the next 3-4 beads/pearls to be strung (the last 3-4 you pulled off) and enlarge the hole with a reamer or pearl bit and drill. This will need to be done to facilitate 3 threads passing through all 3-4 of your beads/pearls.
(Again, If your holes are ALREADY large enough to accommodate 3 threads, move on to the next step.)
Once you've reamed out the 3-4 pearls, thread a beading needle at the end you "cut or unknotted" and re-string the newly drilled pearls back into place all the way to the end of your project, leaving room for the knotting.
2. Taking a new piece of Griffin thread, tie a knot above and below the strand you are stringing onto using the new thread and the too short needle thread that needs to be extended. Once this knot is secure and there is a 3-4" tail on the NEW thread, thread BOTH needles through the next bead. Tie a standard "loop" knot around the 2 strands existing, thread BOTH needles through the next bead and repeat until you get to the last larger reamed pearl.
3. Now that you have 1) tied on the new string, 2) tied 2 more knots between beads with the 2 strings, you are ready to take BOTH needles through the 3rd (or 4th) bead and do that "double knot" that you started with, making sure that you leave the shorter needle piece dangling. Continue your 2 thread knotting to the end of the strand and finish as always.
4. When you are done, take some of the stringing glue and secure the double knot and "dangle string".
5. Let the glue dry and trim close to the pearl/bead.

I've successfully used this method to string with Griffin Thread on longer strands. I save the smaller left over pieces from projects to string bracelets AND to use on the longer strands that just need a bit more thread.

Hope this makes sense, and it helps you.
 
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Wow, MOPTrumpet, that sounds pretty complicated, but I guess you've worked it out. I avoid reaming out the end pearls by using the 2 strand method, testing to make sure there's room to double back before I start a project. The company I've strung for the last 10+ years appreciates that I don't ream their Tahitians. A number of us rearrange and restyle our pearls, so dealing with multiple hole sizes isn't optimal, imo.

I agree, there are many stringing methods, none are "wrong" as long as you and your client are pleased with the results.
 
Wow, MOPTrumpet, that sounds pretty complicated, but I guess you've worked it out. I avoid reaming out the end pearls by using the 2 strand method, testing to make sure there's room to double back before I start a project. The company I've strung for the last 10+ years appreciates that I don't ream their Tahitians. A number of us rearrange and restyle our pearls, so dealing with multiple hole sizes isn't optimal, imo.

I agree, there are many stringing methods, none are "wrong" as long as you and your client are pleased with the results.
I've only strung cheaper freshwater pearls that way, I am mostly a novice! And, I also don't sell my pearls, they are for me so totally understand if this is not best practice. I'm still learning too. Just trying to help a "Griffin Thread" person with a problem and solution I was able to work out. I'll study the other posts about stringing. Thanks for the information about not reaming more valuable pearls to larger hole sizes.
 
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I also like to rearrange my pearls and don't like reaming out end pearls for that reason.
 
I also like to rearrange my pearls and don't like reaming out end pearls for that reason.
So then, here is a question...sometimes when get a strand of pearls, they appear to be drilled .8 as a standard, but oftentimes there is a catch in the middle of the pearl where it is almost impossible to get 2, and definitely not 3 strands, through for double string knotting. In those cases, when I use a .8 pearl bit to clear that catch, is that considered acceptable? Because that is oftentimes all that is needed, instead of actually "reaming" the pearl as was stated above.
Your thoughts please.
 
What happens is that the two drill bits are not perfectly aligned, or one bends ever so slightly as it drills (but doesn't break) Often just rotating the pearl will allow you to get the needle past the burr, but sometimes you'll need to drill the hole smooth. Easy to pass a 0.7 bit through (most pearls are 0.7mm)
It is good practice to remove the burr anyway because it will make short work of the thread.
It is much easier to use griffin type silk with a one thread method.
 
What happens is that the two drill bits are not perfectly aligned, or one bends ever so slightly as it drills (but doesn't break) Often just rotating the pearl will allow you to get the needle past the burr, but sometimes you'll need to drill the hole smooth. Easy to pass a 0.7 bit through (most pearls are 0.7mm)
It is good practice to remove the burr anyway because it will make short work of the thread.
It is much easier to use griffin type silk with a one thread method.
Thank you for clarification about .8 vs. .7. I was not aware of that.
 
I have a set of small cutting broaches that I can use in that case. (I do not have a drill.)

These are essentially long razor blades, triangular in cross section. When you hold the handle and rotate them, they scrape the inside of the drill hole. The smallest ones will not enlarge the drill hole, just remove a bit of the excess material that is inside the drill hole. This is a link to them on Amazon:

Modelcraft 0.6-2.0 mm Cutting Broach Set
 
I have a set of small cutting broaches that I can use in that case. (I do not have a drill.)

These are essentially long razor blades, triangular in cross section. When you hold the handle and rotate them, they scrape the inside of the drill hole. The smallest ones will not enlarge the drill hole, just remove a bit of the excess material that is inside the drill hole. This is a link to them on Amazon:

Modelcraft 0.6-2.0 mm Cutting Broach Set
That sounds amazing! Thanks for the information.
 
First of all, I LOVE griffin silk and nylon thread with the built-in needles. I use that thread the most often for my stringing projects. When I run out of thread on the knotting side (because you WILL run out of thread on anything longer than 24" with double strand knotting) here is what I do.
If using beads with large enough holes to accommodate the triple strand of thread, move to the next step.
1. If stringing pearls with a smaller drill hole, carefully cut the "end" knot (what will be the end of your strand holding the pearls waiting to be knotted) and pull the remainder of pearls/beads off the thread onto your stringing board. If your end piece is really short, consider working the knot out of the string so you won't run too short on this end.) Once the remaining beads are laying on your beading board in order, take the next 3-4 beads/pearls to be strung (the last 3-4 you pulled off) and enlarge the hole with a reamer or pearl bit and drill. This will need to be done to facilitate 3 threads passing through all 3-4 of your beads/pearls.
(Again, If your holes are ALREADY large enough to accommodate 3 threads, move on to the next step.)
Once you've reamed out the 3-4 pearls, thread a beading needle at the end you "cut or unknotted" and re-string the newly drilled pearls back into place all the way to the end of your project, leaving room for the knotting.
2. Taking a new piece of Griffin thread, tie a knot above and below the strand you are stringing onto using the new thread and the too short needle thread that needs to be extended. Once this knot is secure and there is a 3-4" tail on the NEW thread, thread BOTH needles through the next bead. Tie a standard "loop" knot around the 2 strands existing, thread BOTH needles through the next bead and repeat until you get to the last larger reamed pearl.
3. Now that you have 1) tied on the new string, 2) tied 2 more knots between beads with the 2 strings, you are ready to take BOTH needles through the 3rd (or 4th) bead and do that "double knot" that you started with, making sure that you leave the shorter needle piece dangling. Continue your 2 thread knotting to the end of the strand and finish as always.
4. When you are done, take some of the stringing glue and secure the double knot and "dangle string".
5. Let the glue dry and trim close to the pearl/bead.

I've successfully used this method to string with Griffin Thread on longer strands. I save the smaller left over pieces from projects to string bracelets AND to use on the longer strands that just need a bit more thread.

Hope this makes sense, and it helps you.
What a great technique! This is so helpful! Thank you!
 
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