The Most Valuable Tahitian Color or Overtone

Last year I was private messaging back and forth with Jeanpn after she showed us her https://www.pearl-guide.com/forum/show-us-your-pearls/2529-loot-necklace.html. I believe she visited PP and bought some loose pearls. Then she went on a cruise in FP. She told me that in the streets, almost every woman in FP has some kind of Tahitian pearl jewelry, with the exception of only 1 or 2. She said you would think they have connection to pearl farms; but none has colorful pearls like Jeremy's https://www.pearl-guide.com/forum/show-us-your-pearls/2379-loot.html. She suspected that the colorful ones were always cherry-picked by designers . After visiting stores and pearl farms, realizing how rare it is to get colorful pearls after purchasing her https://www.pearl-guide.com/forum/show-us-your-pearls/2524-tahitian-drop.html and not seeing any strands like the "loot" in FP, she jumped at the chance to return to PP to pick her own loot strand.
 
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Thanks a lot for educating me! I just would like to clarify that I just used +100% as an example as I had no idea of if/how much more expensive a pearl in a "rare" colour could be compared to a pearl (of equally quality) in a more "common" colour.
 
It could, but what constitutes a rare color? I think "rare" is somewhat relative. As a buyer, when we purchase a large lot of pearls, there will certainly be pearls in the mix that are more rare than others. But for us, the cost is exactly the same. It would be possible to select out the rare colors and sell them individually for a higher price, but (in my opinion) it's too time-consuming.

With the last lot from Josh, one of the first things I did was separate out the rare and fancy colors. One of the pieces showcased those pearls - the strand we called Colors of Kamoka, which sold a couple of weeks ago. This was a type of exception to the rule for us, because they were Josh's pearls and we had a very limited number to work with.

I absolutely agree with Hanaleimom on the peacock issue. People here at PG and Internet browsers in general are almost jaded on the peacock issue - especially those familiar with our site. Our focus is primarily on the peacock because it is rare and valuable. But if attending a trade show or visiting a jewelry store, finding peacock strands is rare. Most of the strands and pearls are more monotone and range from gray to green.

Jeremy, do you have any pictures of the strand called Colors of Kamoka?
 
OK - let me ask about Pistachio colored pearls. Those intense light green that I personally love. I have not picked through as many pearls as some of you, but when I have, the percentage of this color is very low. I don't see them listed at PP, and this summer I left with a very colorful strand from Jeremy, I'd say every color, except that one. I know they sell for more around here, including people selling loose Tahitians that have pearl farm connections (not commercial b&m) because they are hard to find. Thoughts? Here's an example - Kamoka's I got from Sarah in March. I went through easily several thousand pearls, and found 7 in this color. (I don't have these anymore btw).
 

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Like you said, value is in the eyes of the beholder. My bracelet from TPM has two pistachio pearls and a chocolate pearl. One of the TPM pendant pearl I picked for my Mom also has a pistachio pearl. I don't see many of those two colors, based on my limited experience. I think the pistachio pearls are pretty, especially the ones with lots of gold in them. Not too thrill about chocolate though. Pistachio pearls are still considered a lighter color. However, the peacock and aubergine/eggplant exude a mysterious, exotic beauty and they glow on me better than pistachio. I notice that when setting pendant or strategically placing pistachio next to peacock and aubergine in a bracelet or necklace, that makes the piece really pop.

I just remembered that Jeanpn also said color does not factor into pricing in FP when she bought loose pearls. Price is based on luster, size, surface, etc.

Back in 1992, Robert Wan considered pistachio pearls as "rejects" until Glenda Queen and Pamela Butler started selling them, based on modernjeweler.com's article http://modernjeweler.com/web/online/Pearl-Gem-Profiles/Pistachio-Pearl/3$260. I am going to cut and paste in case they delete it in the future, since they stopped publishing recently.

Pistachio Pearl
Tone Poems

Posted: July 8th, 2008 05:26 PM EDT

By David Federman

Tahiti’s farmers have a kind of macho aesthetic for their pearls. Real pearls have robust colors and spit-shine luster. For years, as a result, pearls with lighter hues and softer glows were hidden away in junk drawers. Out of sight, out of mind, was the rule for undesirable pearls, especially when they had greenish-yellow body colors instead of the traditional gray or black. And it didn’t matter if these pearls had, as they often do, sweet overtones of rose or blue. The farmers could see only failure.

Today, when these pastel pearls have proved a smash hit with designers and jewelers all across America, they are praised only reluctantly by many of Tahiti's pearl growers. For them, real greens glow like Christmas ornaments and radium watch dials. That's why they often turn a deaf ear to customer requests for pale colors. "I have a standing order for light-toned yellowish-greens with a Tahitian pearl farmer who comes to see me regularly," says Glenda Queen of Union Street Goldsmiths in San Francisco. "Yet no matter how much or often I pester him for these goods, he never brings or sends me any."

That leaves Queen no choice but to call the queen of what are now called pistachio pearls, fellow San Franciscan and pearl dealer Pamela Butler of Ocean Gem Pearl Corp. The term pistachio pearl is a Butler coinage that dates from 1992, the year she visited Robert Wan, Tahiti's largest and most influential pearl grower, and just happened to catch sight of a bin brimming with these beauties whose colors suggested various mixtures of lemon and lime. "'What are these?' I asked him. 'Rejects,' he answered and explained, very apologetically, that they were five years worth of crop failures. 'I'll take them all,' I told him."

What did Butler see in that giant reject pile that Wan had missed? Quite simply, a golden opportunity to make a one-woman market in a whole new breed of pearl with subtle colors the likes of which no one had ever seen before. "The market for Tahitian pearls was still very small then and pretty much in the pocket of a couple of New York dealers who were very powerful and very clever," recalls Butler, who had been specializing in Polynesian pearls since 1987. "But I noticed that these market kingpins were focusing almost exclusively on classic Tahitian colors such as eggplant-purple and peacock-green. They, too, shared the farmers' contempt for pastel hues. I realized then and there that if I was going to build a successful business in black pearls, it would have to be with colors they had overlooked or ignored."

Butler couldn't have known it at the time, but her efforts on behalf of the soft-hued and light-toned pearls Wan considered rubbish would radically alter pearl aesthetics and pave the way for a revolution in taste.

MASCULINE/FEMININE

When Butler tapped the fashion world for the color-term pistachio to describe greenish-yellow Tahitian pearls, she was aware that she was taking what she calls a "feminine approach" to classifying pearls. "Categories like 'South Sea,' 'Akoya,' and 'freshwater' are very masculine and scientific," she says. "I wanted to use words that were more feminine and romantic to classify pastel pearls. After all, these are very cheery gems that give an emotional lift when a woman wears them. We need a language that conveys this sense of uplift."

Butler is on to something here. Pearls, which have for so long been considered a fashion gem, seem to lend themselves to description in evocative terms one is very used to seeing in highly sophisticated, ultra-poetic mail-order clothing catalogs from the likes of Coldwater Creek and The Territory Ahead. Copy writers for these catalogs rarely use abstract color names but, instead, prefer concrete ones. Thus purple becomes plum, olive becomes aloe, gold becomes thistle, and so on and so forth. "A whole generation of shoppers has learned to think of fabrics in terms of specific beverages, foods, plants, and the like," Butler continues. "This same naming technique has been harnessed to pearls with obvious success."

And how. After pistachio pearls caught on big as such with designers and jewelers, the market started to find catchy names for other pastel pearls. Light-toned coppery Tahitian pearls were dubbed bronze pearls. Those with crimson were christened cognac.

Now dealers and designers are thumbing through fashion catalogs and hue-name dictionaries in a hunt for spicy names that capture the spirit of other color-rich pearl varieties. Thus light-orange freshwater pearls from China are sold as apricot and its muted purples as lavender.

Meanwhile, color names adopted for Tahitian pearls have been elevated from descriptions to trade names. "It is amazing how these color names take on a life of their own," says John Bucher of Bucher Trading Co., New York. "People now talk about pistachio pearls as if they are a species in themselves."

From Butler's perspective, they are. And it is clearly one that other dealers share with her. In 1996, Golay Buchel New York launched a major market campaign for pistachio pearls, featuring a strand of them in an ad along with one white and one golden necklace. Coupling the pistachio strand with two others that possessed better-known colors helped the newer color find more immediate acceptance.

Two years later, says Fabrice Dessaint at the company's New York office, "Demand for pistachio pearls is running stronger than ever. I only wish supplies would keep up with it." So do jewelers.

Pistachio Tahitian cultured circle pearls courtesy of Elyria Pearls.

ModernJeweler


IMHO, it comes down to some marketing techniques by giving catchy names (for example cognac diamond sounds better than brown diamond). Catchy names sell better. Trendy people tend to buy chocolate pearls, for example. It is not even as popular as a few years ago. To each his own. I prefer the classic beauty of peacock & aubergine; and they remain timeless. But it doesn't mean I don't like pistachio pearls; just don't like them as much.
 
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That is a great article. I had read before that the Tahitian preference is for the deep, dark blacker colors. I personally have no interest in chocolate pearls that have been treated, but I love finding natural ones, although I realize they are really more copper and that chocolate is probably a newly invented commercial term.
 
Sheryl,
I particularly love the pistachios and chocolates.......:)
But I have seen so many mediocre black Tahitian pearls that are just that - black with no overtones at all - that any good Tahitians with gorgeous overtones are, for me, the most valued and valuable.

P.S. - Cathy, thanks for the article.
 
Not sure what Sheryl means by dark, blacker color. I like dark, black beauty with overtone though.

Here is a really black Tahitian with no overtone. Ughh.
 

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I swoon when I see these peacock pearls.
 

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As long as you feel good, look good in them, it doesn't matter if they are peacock or not. These beauty contestants looked radiant in their pearls (some are not peacock), courtesy of tahitipresse.pf.
 

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Beautiful pictures and a very interesting article!

What about the (in my opinion) gorgeous pearls from www.pearlsfiji.com? When it comes to Tahitian pearls it seems as if "darker" pearls are preferred or at least more expensive but the pearls in the "J. Hunter Pastel Collection" seems to be beyond beautiful. Are these considered as "Tahitian pearls"?
 
As always pearls and pearl colours are very individual. Of course, Justin Hunter?s pearls are Tahitians. Tahitians come in many colours and hues, from white to very dark pearls and with all kinds of overtones.

Most people may prefer the darker ones, because everything is more easy to see if the bodycolour is dark, it probably brings out the overtones better.

But the ones with a grey body colour and silver or aqua/rose overtones are lovely as well and everything boils down to personal preference, I think.

The pictures of the light coloured Tahitians that Sheryl (Waimeamomi) posted are just such a stunning example of what Tahitians can look like!:)
 
There are times when I see something that calls to me, but it is not what I'd normally pick. Pastel Tahitian pearls are adorable. But realistically I am a sucker for Tahitians.

Here are some pastel pearls that called to me. I kept going back to look at them. It is amazing what nature can do. http://www.perlesdetahiti.net/press-room/en/medias/image-bank/pearls/pearl-necklace/

PS: I don't mean to hijack the thread. I just can't help contributing beautiful pearl pictures.
 

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Beautiful, Cathy. Thanks for posting the pics. A pity you can?t be here and give me a lesson in the art of posting pictures....
 
Those are amazing! Thanks, Cathy! And don't tell me you didn't check out the Tahitian Pearl Princes' photos while you were looking--I sure did! ;);):D Of course, we have our own #1 Prince of all Tahitian Pearl Princes--Josh!! With all due credit to Douglas, our #1 Cortez Pearl Prince!
 
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And don't tell me you didn't check out the Tahitian Pearl Princes' photos while you were looking--I sure did! ;);):D Of course, we have our own #1 Prince of all Tahitian Pearl Princes--Josh!! With all due credit to Douglas, our #1 Cortez Pearl Prince!

Nah...I found the princes' photos prior to the necklaces. :p. But I only go back to look at the necklaces.

We definitely have 2 princes here: Josh and Douglas ......... We also have Pearl King Jeremy.
 
Thanks for the link to the photos, Cathy.... princes and pearls!

I haven't really 'bought into' this thread. For me, Tahitian pearls are only fairly new on my horizon. Too many flat black ones in our stores here looking like strands of gumballs.

Discovering Josh's pearls has been eye-opening for me. I have my own "Colours of Kamoka" strand (great name, Jeremy, promise not to use it commercially!) of stunningly beautiful 11mm multicolored pearls. For me, that is the beauty of Tahitians - the VARIETY of colours rather than one colour tone in preference to another. The strand I have even has silvery whites in it... truly magnificent.
The strand Cathy posted above - top picture, post #34, is definitely my favourite of the ones here.
 
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