There is one huge headache that beginners often create for themselves. That is,
terminally clogged files. I have seen a person clog a file so thoroughly that it couldn't be cleared and had to be discarded--and, in less time than you might think possible. So-when you get your first file(s) get a file cleaner at the same time. It is a sort of wire brush and looks like a wool carding tool. Use it often and well. Check your file every few strokes until you're very familiar with your need for frequency. Silver will clog a file about 3 or 4 times faster and more thoroughly than gold. Be careful or you can ruin that expensive file. Also, I agree that for most file work one should buy very high quality files. However, this does not always mean the most expensive. If you will go to a good hardware store that stocks quality tools and look through all their different kinds of files you will find some that, although they may not be exactly the same shape as "jewelry" files, will serve some of your needs very well. you will also pay about 25% to 35% of what an official, imported, "jewelry" file will cost you and, if chosen carefully, will be just as high in quality. The one exception to this is the barrette file. I find this to be a necessary, must-have file and can't seem to find domestically made ones. In the mid nineteen-seventies I found a stash of Nickelson barrette files, full size, no 2's for $2.00 each at a rock shop. I bought them all and stored them in oiled paper. Eventually I wore them all out (gave a couple away) and have never been able to find them again. They were as good as anything made in Europe. Still looking. . . Another suggestion is to get a selection of the larger, 8" needle files in #4 or even #2 cut. They are the most useful files I have. I think Rio sells them but not sure.
Another item I've seen few jewelers use but I have found very useful from the beginning is a filing pad. It consists of a cast iron holder about 4" X 2.5" that makes a frame for a rubber pad. Screwed down to the edge of your bench, it keeps your work from sliding all around while you file on it. They're cheap and more than worth it.
Also, I keep a number of those expensive, "one-time" sanding sticks around. After I wore them out (About 25 years ago) I found that they are the absolute best base for a staple-on sanding stick. They are thicker and stiffer and yet not so long and clunky as a paint stirrer, give you a better sharp-edge to sand with when needed and the sides, being at least a quarter of an inch across are very useful for narrower areas. I generally use sandpaper in 320, 400 and 600 grit and find little use for sandpaper finer than 600 grit. Occasionally, rarely, 800 is usefull to prepolish and help preserve sharp edges, but beyond that, skilfull use of tripoli or bobbing compound and the appropriate buffing wheel (and they come in many configurations, muslin (both stitched and loose), felt (hard or soft), wood, and in sizes for from flexshafts to full size buffing units, will in almost all cases do the job faster and just as well or better, without the constant clogging that fine sandpapers are subject to. As in any of the bench jewelers skills, time and practice, practice, practice is required to do these things properly and well. I would also say that if one has to polish something on the buffing unit long enough to get bored, there is a very good chance that one hasn't done their pre-polish work properly and/or thoroughly.
