BWeaves, that shawl pattern is mesmerizing. Do you actually weave the texture in, or is it blocked/ironed afterward? That's so, so gorgeous.
It's a variation on woven Shibori. Shibori is the Japanese version of tie dye, except you sew the fabric, draw up the sewing threads tight, and then dye the fabric. The dye can't get in where the sewing is drawn up tight, so the fabric isn't dyed there and makes a resist pattern.
In woven Shibori, I weave in the draw up threads, in this case in a diamond pattern. The loom does the work for me. Then I pull the drawup threads tight and steam the fabric. I didn't dye it this time. Because some of the threads are Orlon, instead of silk and wool, the Orlon melts just a teeny bit when it's steamed, and holds the pleat. Then when I snip the draw up threads, the fabric stays permanently pleated. When I wear it, it's like wearing a woven Slinky toy. I play with the pleats constantly.
I'm a bit of a natural fiber snob, so having to use Orlon, Nylon, or polyester in this technique makes me feel icky, but it's the only way to have the pleats stay permanent. I have found that I don't need to make the fabric completely artificial, though. I can get away with only half or even a quarter of the fabric be Orlon and still pleat successfully. The wool and silk is a nice complement to the Orlon, as I have both yarns in the same colors.
About the shawl. I couldn't decide which side of the fabric I liked better, so I gave it a twist and sewed it together as a Mobius strip. When I wear it, the fabric flips on my front, and you can see both sides of the fabric. There's a seam up the back that I somehow managed to make look invisible. That was total serendipity.