Cook Islands Keshi Bracelet

[Pearlgully]

How do you measure the mm size of a keshi pearl; end to end or widest part of the middle?

Just curious, is it unusual for keshi pearls to be drilled through the middle (as in the bracelet) as opposed to end to end? Was this a design decision or was there some other reason.


Gail

 

[jshepherd]

I had faith this thread would find a noble cause?

Argh! No! Keep the responses coming from the Cooks, Please!

I'm still a bit mystified by these numbers: Given the average weight of the pearls in our bracelet of 2.5g, 30 kilos would be 12,000 such pearls?many thousands more considering the smaller average size. How many oysters does that entail, and how many does Josh farm in total? Sounds huge?

I am not sure the size of Josh's harvest but I know it was just average, nothing huge. Let's just throw a small number out there and say it was 50,000 pearls, 40,000 of which were first generation and 10,000 of which were second generation.

40,000 first generation pearls would range in size from 8 mm to 11 mm on average. Each pearl would have an average weight of about 1.2 to 1.3 grams.

The 10,000 second generation pearls would range in size from 12 mm and up, mostly concentrating the 12 to 14 mm range (14 mm as the top average, not 14 to 15 mm). So the average weight would be between 2.2 and 2.3 grams.

If we average this out it would come to about 50 kilo of first generation and 22.5 kilo of second generation, for a total output of 72.5 kilo.

So the question would become, what is the average output of keshi per kilo of beaded pearls? I think it is important to remember that most of the keshi are not "expelled pearl sac" keshi. They are small and they develop within the tissue of the mollusk during regular beaded pearl production. There is a good percentage of shell that does expell the nucleus, and these shells would likely have keshi. If keshi output is even 10% of beaded pearl output, that is a lot of keshi.

By the way, I could be way off on Josh's keshi volume. I feel like I remember a figure around 30 kilo. But it may have been less.

How do you measure the mm size of a keshi pearl; end to end or widest part of the middle?
Just curious, is it unusual for keshi pearls to be drilled through the middle (as in the bracelet) as opposed to end to end? Was this a design decision or was there some other reason.

The way they are drilled is really up to the designer. But when the keshi are set into a piece they are measured perpendicular to the drill hole just like any other cultured pearl. When they are loose and sold by the pearl they would be described in dimensions. If the pearls are center drilled the size can be quite large as keshi are often more oblong than round.

 

[gravityalwayswins]

I think it would be cool to use Jeremy's lot to design some really neat white gold custom clasp/built-in-enhancer that has maybe 4-8, depending on size, keshis on it. Use up the lot on a big bunch of these clasps, then don't make the clasp anymore. The clasp could be strung on tahitians, rounds, baroques, (I think it would be great with white round akoyas or freshwaters). The wearer could then choose to dress up the strand by putting it in front, or dress down the strand by putting it in back.

Then in several years, a strand (errr... thread.. sorry, couldn't resist) will begin where all those P-Gers who purchased it admit they've NEVER worn the strand with the clasp in back. I bet we'd even have our fabulous Beaders admit restringing it now and then onto different types of pearls for a little variety!

Carol

 

[johnguibal]

Nice Find

Nice Find

I post to celebrate our newest acquisition, and to wish fellow forum members a very Happy Holiday.

The magnificent pearls below arrived to our office in Seattle just yesterday, and are on my wife's desk awaiting our return from wine business in Spain next week. As she does not read the forum, the surprise should remain intact?

17 keshi (100% nacre) pearls 10mm to 14mm in size form a bracelet. Cook Islands keshi average 4mm to 8mm maximum, however during the 2007 harvest a line of oysters was discovered at a small farm on Manihiki that had been lost for an indeterminate period of time. These keshi were thus allowed to develop for an estimated six years (or more)!

Not only are these keshi the entire booty from that line, but they manage to represent every conceivable color obtainable from the Pinctada margaritifera.

Two sets of complementary keshi studs accompany the bracelet. The only question that remains is whether my wife will wear the bracelet (she's not the bracelet type?have placed my faith exclusively in the pearls).

?Felices Fiestas!

Steve
Seattle

If the wife doesent like them......mine would.....how much? !

 

[airdancer]

I think it would be cool to use Jeremy's lot to design some really neat white gold custom clasp/built-in-enhancer that has maybe 4-8, depending on size, keshis on it. Use up the lot on a big bunch of these clasps, then don't make the clasp anymore. The clasp could be strung on tahitians, rounds, baroques, (I think it would be great with white round akoyas or freshwaters). The wearer could then choose to dress up the strand by putting it in front, or dress down the strand by putting it in back.

Then in several years, a strand (errr... thread.. sorry, couldn't resist) will begin where all those P-Gers who purchased it admit they've NEVER worn the strand with the clasp in back. I bet we'd even have our fabulous Beaders admit restringing it now and then onto different types of pearls for a little variety!

Carol

KAKAKAKAKA....hilarious!

 

[SteveM]

Just curious, is it unusual for keshi pearls to be drilled through the middle (as in the bracelet) as opposed to end to end? Was this a design decision or was there some other reason.

No further explanation from the designer than 'when you are from a pearling family with a jewellery background you know what to do when you see the pearls.' (I guess that's all we get!) The point was to use all the keshi from the lost 'chaplets' in a single piece.

If the wife doesent like them......mine would.....how much? !

She likes them a lot, just needing to secure the magnetic clasps. Price: More than commercially-available Tahitian, that's for sure.

If keshi output is even 10% of beaded pearl output, that is a lot of keshi.

Jeremy, thanks for the excellent yield analysis of a well-run pearl farm!

 

[Karl]

Jeremy:

I think the enhancer idea is a good one. A choker of the keishi would be great too. I believe I saw one here on the guide made for a male that looked pretty masculine but would look good on a woman as well. Cuff links? The brooch idea could work but might require custom designed findings. Also, you could expand the use of keishi's in strands of round pearls...mixing and matching different types for different price points.

It seems the choices are endless!

Good luck,

Karl

 

[Valeria101]

Long open strand (i.e. a length of keshi, literally) ending in two small drops, to be knotted in front for wear.

There is no clasp, no findings, no fuss with such an object. The only trick is that one can prop the dangling ends of the necklace with a stiff thread. And you can play endlessly alternating sizes, shapes...

Small keshi are perfect for shoulder duster earrings. I'd dare 'threaded ones' - have some in coral, and it doesn't take much imagination to translate to pearls.

The two would even fit...

If there are any small roundish pearls in the pack, those must become a line ring (or a stack)

And I could see how a flat tessel necklace might fit 99% of my summer wear.


The problem is... the idea to play with that bag of pearls is way, way more tempting then any single items the pearls might yield!

 

[SteveM]

Cuff links?

Two pair of Keshi studs to match were thrown in with the CI bracelet, and a suggestion that one of the pair be turned into cuff links for yours truly was met with skepticism, as prior efforts had been unsatisfactory, I assume due to lack of nucleus for proper anchor. Perhaps through-drilling would address this.

 

[Valeria101]

Perhaps through-drilling would address this.

Or prongs...

 

[SteveM]

Appropriately, the proposed companion to my wife's Christmas gift 'Poe Teanaana' is herewith presented for Easter. After much discussion, and my personal desire to see those keshi on the neck, a second bracelet/extender has been made of a selection from CI keshi stock on hand, 22 keshi 9-12mm on the same 14kwg magnetic clasps (reverse strung to marry with P.T). We will see how it looks all together before purchase. There is still the issue of securing those clasps (maybe not such an issue on the neck), not to mention how they will look on the shoulders.

 

[boo]

Sigh....just beautiful....

 

[Karl]

Boo's right. Just amazing.

 

[Hanaleimom]

p

p

It's a very beautiful addition to your already great collection.

 

[robinmce]

That is incredible. What an amazing collection you have.
I'm still reeling from the photos of your pearl curtain!!
Robin

EEk . <That was you wasn't it. I was trying to educate myself....reading the back posts... But now can't find the amazing photo>

 

[SteveM]

It's a very beautiful addition to your already great collection.

We'll see when it gets here, will keep it if the extender/necklace idea works. It's not an insignificant decision, as the pearls 'sacrificed' might have made 11 pairs of studs each retailing for $500+ (not that the bracelet would cost quite that much)! We will certainly give credence to views expressed here upon posting?

I'm still reeling from the photos of your pearl curtain!!
Robin

EEk . <That was you wasn't it. I was trying to educate myself....reading the back posts... But now can't find the amazing photo>

Neither is this ours, posted on 'Cook Islands Pearling Developments', photo provided by the jeweler/owner. Shall I ask for a price just for curiosity?

 

[Sueki]

The Easter bracelet looks gorgeous, Steve. Another beautiful addition to your unique collection - I do hope you decide to keep it.....

And Boo, those keishis look beautiful on you - are those spacers I see, or is it a trick of the light ?

 

[Caitlin]

Please note the discussion on working with Keshi was deemed important enough for its own thread so as to be easily found. The picture to which Sueki refers is the first post in the new thread. LINK

 

[Josh]

Yikes!
Looks like I missed the party. I was out of the loop for a few days and am blown away by what I passed up.
First off, Steve: freakin' amazing keshi! I assume that those colors and sizes (all well matching) would have had to have come from a serious volume of keshi.
Let's see though... trying to get to important points that I remember in those 6 pages of posts. The lines were "lost" in that they probably just sunk to the bottom. Out of sight, out of mind. The oysters must have been in protective baskets to ward off triggerfish and leopard ray attacks. Those buggers are pretty thorough otherwise.
Strangely enough, we recently harvested some keshi that had been growing for 8 or 9 years. Though beautifully smooth, I can certainly not boast of peacocks, goldens, etc. There is one that is an amazing drop shape with double pointy ends that has my wife's name written all over it. The rest was just flat out white for the most part. I can't help but wonder too about the origin of Steve's amazing keshi. The size and color make them truly unique. Large keshi are almost invariably from failed second or third graft operations. A failed first graft keshi will never reach those 10 to 12mm realms before the oyster poops out, in my opinion. I am reasonably sure Steve's keshi are second graft jobbies.
Our recent keshi were not "lost" but had been "left out to pasture" on a line within stones throw of the farm. In Tahiti the longline system is really the only one used. It is optimum for proper feeding as it enables you to place the oysters perpendicular to the usual flow of current.
Jeremy, thanks for the flattering estimations but the real numbers are dramatically lower. One thing that's important to understand about keshi is that the more you make, the worse you're doing. Obviously it means that instead of making pearls, you're not. Also, the bigger ones come from the second or third grafts which typically have much higher retention rates than the first graft. In second graft harvests we often run in the 90%s as opposed to the 50 to 60's of the first graft. That being said, I have some ideas brewing for non-accidental keshi. I hope to have some more to say about that in a year or two but will just say for now that I was inspired by what I recently learned is going on with our Chinese brethren over seas.
One more thing is that Te ana ana means "the shiny" in Tahitian and they certainly are.

 

[Valeria101]

....we recently harvested some keshi that had been growing for 8 or 9 years. ....beautifully smooth... ...white for the most part.

There is one that is an amazing drop shape with double pointy ends that has my wife's name written all over it.

Ok... Do you still have that camera handy?