Trade secrets: Pearl farming techniques are kept under wraps

[jshepherd]

I came across this article in the Financial Times this morning and had to sign up for a free subscription just to read it, but it was worth it.

http://www.ft.com/intl/cms/s/0/87fe9c78-a4be-11e1-9908-00144feabdc0.html#axzz1xJQb6jSR

A lot of it is a bit over the top and many of those secrets are exposed (here on Pearl-Guide, of course).

Now Yoko London and London Pearl, another London headquartered wholesaler, are both claiming to offer a rare dark pink and purple round pearl produced at a Chinese farm using an innovative patented process. Harvested in January, the pearls replicate the rich pink colour of sought-after freshwater pearls from Lake Kasumiga in Japan, which are no longer produced.
Daniel Vecht, managing director of London Pearl, claims his close relationship with the farmer means he has taken the cream of the crop and that this pearl might just revolutionise the industry. Mr Vecht supplies pearls to a significant proportion of the UK?s jewellers. Such is the secrecy surrounding the techniques used to produce these pearls that Mr Vecht himself has not been privy to them, and neither wholesaler will disclose his farming contacts.

They weren't harvested in January. They were sold in January. They are talking about Edison Pearls from Grace Pearls, of course. I believe there may be another auction taking place this month.

 

[lisa c]

Thanks for sharing!

 

[pearlescence]

I could not resist putting in a comment
well spotted Jeremy. I know an FT journalist. I clearly need to frown at him

 

[Caitlin]

How much do you think a singleton Edison would cost? What size might it be?

 

[jshepherd]

It depends on a lot of different factors, but I have seen nice pairs for a few hundred dollars. By nice pairs I mean decently matched and fine pearls.

 

[Caitlin]

They would cost less than a Tahitian of equivalent size?

 

[CLICLASP]

Why are these pearls called Edison ? so weird ? sorry if you told us before ...

 

[Lagoon Island Pearls]

This from: http://www.staradvertiser.com/news/nyt/20110802_Pearls_finer_but_still_cheap_flow_from_China.html

"While he was happy with the reception that Grace's half-inch white pearls were receiving, Zhan seemed more proud of an innovation he called Edison pearls -- orbs that come in vivid purple, pink and bronze, bright hues seldom seen before except in dyed pearls, and in sizes of up to three-quarters of an inch.

Although he and Grace closely guard their techniques, Zhan said they saw the Edison as emblematic of the growing scientific and technological sophistication of Chinese pearl making. He named them for Thomas Edison, even if it seemed a back-handed homage."

"Edison, for all his intelligence," Zhan said, "could not invent pearls or diamonds."

 

[Amrita]

I thought I'd add a few pictures of the much talked about "Edison Pearls" to this thread. Handled a couple of gorgeous Edison strands today at last....here are the pictures...

Have to say, these are pretty amazing pearls and the colors are unlike most that I have seen in pearls before... Prices are comparable to South Sea Pearl strands in the same size range...in some cases even more..

The pictured pearls in the 2 strands range from 12mm to 15mm..

 

[Adeline Leigh]

Loving this thread. Pearling greats, please feel free to shed light on these freshwater Edison pearls with more pictures!

Amrita, am curious; are you talking low or mid 4 figures here... (ouch!)

 

[lisa c]

The colors are amazing, truly gorgeous. I'm wondering how true to round are they? How heavy are they?

I ask because I have two pearls won from Roberto Lay on ebay, 12.7mm, bead nucleated. They're baroque, the surfaces somewhat rippley, lovely changing colors. I wanted them for earrings but they're so HEAVY! that I can imagine my earlobes hitting my knees. so I'm wondering how much a whole necklace would weigh? and if I should get a couple of new piercings...

 

[Adeline Leigh]

Ahh, Lisa, nothing more satisfying than a good win from Rob. 12.7mm? Can do. Go for it as earrings! Allow mw but these lobes so far have put up with 15mms bead nukes everyday and so far so good, lobes are fine and dandy.

You are indeed right (and I have wondered too) about the weight of an entire strand of bead nukes 15mm and above. But, you know what, look at what the ladies are all wearing these days, collared gemstones (real or otherwise) bibs and metal alloys.

Is it me or I think I can handle some heft around my neck these days? Think I feel more secure rather than a dainty lightweight chain

 

[pattye]

Amrita,

Gorgeous pearls! I'm curious, can you be more specific about how the colors are different? They look very much like the genuine Kasumi colors. Thanks so much!

 

[lisa c]

Hi Adeline! Thanks for the laugh!
Yeah, I'm way past dainty chains too, but sweetie my earlobes are waaaaay older than yours :-(. Sniff, sniff... Your gorgeous website and baubly earrings are a big reason I'm considering re-piercing.

Yah, when I won the pearls I didn't realize it was Roberto until the package arrived.

These new pearls are all fashion fwd, I'm just a weenie-arm!

In the the balance, beauty will win over weight, I'm sure. The colors are beautiful.

 

[Amanda]

Those are immense, and such lovely colours! How thick is the nacre on them, do you know?

 

[Amrita]

Okay, so attempting to answer the questions raised:

1. Adeline: I am talking mid and higher 4 figures, I'm afraid.

2. Lisa: The pearls are quite round or near round. The weight of a strand sans the clasp is about 110 g in this size 12.5-15 mm.

3. Pattye: The colors are different in their depth and luminosity I think. For example, the purple is a much richer purple than most freshwater lavendar strands that I have seen; then there are various shades of gold in the multicolors - the deeper shades might be similar to golden SSPs, but there are some bronzy ones which are different; some of the pinks on the multicolor strand are like a baby pink color that I haven't seen in real pearls before. I have put 2 pictures, one of an 11-12 mm multicolor FWP strand and another of teh Edison multicolor strand to offer some sort of comparative viewing although it still might not be adequate enough. Another thing is the lovely and deep luster that makes them stand out I think.

4. Amanda: I understand that the beads inside are about 8.5-9 mm for these pearls - so the rest is nacre.

 

[dkan 168]

To be honest, they don't do a lot for me, as I am not a fan of multi-colour pearls in a strand.

As for the white ones, I can get SSP for a little bit more, and I already have a nice silver SSP strand.

Therefore, I shall concentrate on collecting big baroque SSPs for my Wilma Flintstone necklace project.

DK

 

[pearlescence]

I bought these nearly two years ago in Hong Kong, selecting individual undrilled pearls. This was before they were even called Edison's. They are beautiful. Nothing like the Kasumi-ish, even though both are clearly bead nuked (as are the white south sea-ish ones)
http://www.pearlescence.co.uk/product_info.php/cPath/104_175/products_id/2764

 

[pattye]

Wendy, LOVE that strand!

Amrita, Thanks for the detailed info and photos! It does help to see the photos together!

 

[Amrita]

That's a lovely strand, Wendy!
You're welcome, Pattye!