TRADE ALERT re Non-Beaded Saltwater ('new keshi') Pearls

[SteveM]

Update today from SSEF/Swiss Gemmological Institute. No specific mention of the Penn pearls, that seems to be the domain of GemLab/Hainschwang.

Dear Reader,
Dear Client


Following our recent press release on beadless cultured pearls (also called "Keshi" in the trade), we received many positive reactions from the trade.
As there were also questions about beaded cultured pearls, we would like to inform the trade, that developments in pearl cultivation is not only restricted to the beadless cultured pearls ("Keshi"), but also includes the use of new bead materials in beaded cultured pearls (CP).
We found the following pearls were used as bead material to grow another cultured pearl:
- Beadless saltwater cultured pearl ("Keshi");
- Beadless freshwater cultured pearl from China;
- Beaded saltwater cultured pearl;
- Natural saltwater pearl.
To learn more about this, see attached press release, which we published as an addendum to our previous press release on beadless cultured pearls ("Keshi"). Although this development is quite alarming, we would like to mention that these cultured pearls with new bead materials are currently only in small number in the trade, in contrast to the beadless cultured pearls ("Keshis), which are present in large quantities. But this may change in the future.

We appreciate your comments on this and reassure you that the SSEF has taken all necessary measures to protect the natural pearl trade against these cultured pearls.

Yours sincerely
Dr. Michael S. Krzemnicki
Director
Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF

 

[Caitlin]

I think integrity is soooo sexy!

 

[GemGeek]

The mermaids could cry some real tears over this one. What's-his-name could have written something relevant.

Agreed. What a waste.

 

[Valeria101]

ALL pinctadas? Maximas, margeritifera's, radiatas?

If you are saying that it is worth knowing exactly of which kind a pearl is because it is easier to tell what is being cultured and what isn't at any given time... then, I am with you on this one. Methinks, still a gamble, just a much narrower one.

I find it easy to imagine how one might produce pearls indistinguishable from the happenstance naturals [wrote earlier] - a matter of economics. The story is not entirely without precedent: there were 'perfect synthetics'* before, all with stories of more or less cheerful capitulation. I am not optimistic about morals here, only ever trusted what's obvious to me.

___
* OK, there are no synthetic pearls - they'd probably cost as much as the space shuttle to produce right now, funny thought that! Still, there are only very few precious things that are farmed: I am only toying with one such analogy here.

This mystery has gotten cold and dark. [...] I'm dropping this for now. I need to lower my blood pressure.

Down here, there's this old recipe for such occasions. It sort of works for me, so, who knows... It calls for a deep breath and a bit of twisted thinking:

Closer to the Balkans, trust is courtesy - letting the louse you're facing choose to act in good faith. It is allowed to laugh when they do, or call them brother - whichever works; we're all brothers anyway, often misunderstood. It isn't the best of worlds, but when all is said and done, virtue by will is as admired here as there.

Accordingly, the liars you are counting are all to be trusted with the pursuit of their interest. Everyone is, so, relative merit is easy: even keeping to a transparent book of rules or statement of said interest for long enough to matter is no measly headway, making news for the like of me to chew on is a significant extra. And then, a place like this makes writing of what I like to read easy, somehow.

For once, I am still impressed with the gesture of said auctioneers and commercial laboratories to publish richer references and accounts of their work in progress. In my book, this is goodwill - it doesn't make life easier to expose your sources or uncertainties: worse, this makes all that much easier for any poor bastard claiming they know better [i.e. either way: a self-imposed gag order of false results are just as bad] to appear wiser for a while. It's a strange world, in which truth needs to be proven and proof takes work that may fail. I find it... curious, that most of the time going the whole hog is a monumental waste of breath.

Would bet that anyone who ever made a living from keeping others honest - stock exchanges and auctioneers tend to define their business that way, if not word for word - would rather get their truth from tomorrow's news then Lady Luck. One can't always choose their sources now, can they. Only fools and academics have no choice but being picky: by will or job description, respectively. Call me a fool...

Just fine that pearls have no ears! History aside, I am not too disappointed that making nacre for paper coating is more of an industry today. Makes pearls more interesting. Makes their true nature attainable in greater detail too, even if pearls could never pay for such revelation anymore. All done by a bunch of liars all too happy with the right of keeping their bit of truth to themselves, unless they fancy otherwise. How bad can it be?

Just a thought...

 

[Caitlin]

More like a dozen thoughts all of them profound on some level. Thanks for the enjoyable read.

One thing on a second read

For once, I am still impressed with the gesture of said auctioneers and commercial laboratories to publish richer references and accounts of their work in progress.

I missed the part about auction houses giving up calling keshi natural pearls.

 

[Bodecia]

Caitlin -

I think integrity is soooo sexy!

It is generally the bad boys and girls for that matter that are sexy. Integrity is just that. Honest integrity.
I don't think the discussion has become too dark. It is very confused at times and we all differ in our opinions to some extent but honesty is what is needed. If these pearls are put out as naturals it effects us all to some extent.

I wouldn't mind some as long as they would advertised as cultured and how, would love some then. But would hate to be caught out as a buyer of such for a Natural price. That would be a real killer.

This is an interesting and also very confusing thread but still I for one hope it will continue so we understand more.

What I don't understand is how they, the culturers of these pearls, can do what they are doing i.e. culturing these pearls and how they are doing it. I realise the economics are dangerous but the hows are also very interesting.

It is all very interesting and I only understand a fraction of what is being said. duhh.

On another post I will be listing all of my naturals and I do believe all are. Photos, sizes etc. Now how does one such as me market these antique and vintage pieces when this extreme problem has come up. I cannot afford to have them certified as naturals, even though I am 99% sure they are. This makes life hard for all now. Even the little guy or girl, in my case.

Dawn
eBay Seller ID dawncee

 

[Bodecia]

Somewhere, I believe, on this thread are photos of so called natural pearls with internal fraction lines. In con-junction with the post I listed on Tom Stern's Natural Pearls would it not be a possibility that if a natural seed pearl or keshi in the case of baroques, was used as a the internal "bead" a natural one instead that the oyster, mussel or whatever when laying down nacre could cause tiny fractures within the initial seed pearl. I do not of course no if this would be possible but think it is worth considering in this context.

Something has to cause these tiny fractures and what better than the oyster and its protection of itself in the form of its natural nacre laying.

Just a though anyway.

Dawn
eBay Seller Id dawncee333

 

[Caitlin]

How much does it cost to get a pearl certified down there? The certificate always improves the price of a natural pearl for at least the cost and finding out if it is a MI pearl (freshwater) or a Persian (saltwater) pearl is worth more than the cost.

If one is only 99% sure it is natural, then it might not be a good idea to say anything about natural. The lab is the only one who can 100% say a pearl is natural- especially in these days. Saying anything else arouses fantasies in the buyer. Then you are selling the fantasy about the pearl, not the pearl. Best to sell the idea that a natural pearl must be certified to call it natural. That is ethical. However, show us your pearls! We all love to guess.

 

[Valeria101]

I missed the part about auction houses giving up calling keshi natural pearls.

Is any of them backing this openly?

 

[Bodecia]

How much does it cost to get a pearl certified down there? The certificate always improves the price of a natural pearl for at least the cost and finding out if it is a MI pearl (freshwater) or a Persian (saltwater) pearl is worth more than the cost.

If one is only 99% sure it is natural, then it might not be a good idea to say anything about natural. The lab is the only one who can 100% say a pearl is natural- especially in these days. Saying anything else arouses fantasies in the buyer. Then you are selling the fantasy about the pearl, not the pearl. Best to sell the idea that a natural pearl must be certified to call it natural. That is ethical. However, show us your pearls! We all love to guess.
__________________

Hi Caitlin, I don't really have any idea. I do know of a gemmologist whom I trust and maybe he can point me in the right direct. I have only heard of prices for certification here on the Pearl Guide/Forum and they have been stated as $200 to $600 so that is very confusing too. For one pearl to have a certificate after a cost of $200 to $600 sort of knocks me out of having more than one done at a time and that only after a good couple of weeks of selling.

I had heard than a strand cost $200 or $300 to get a certificate for and now for one pearl it can cost up to $600. That is a hell of a difference in prices. How many of us are likely to find a strand of naturals in a decent size. Seed pearls yes, now and again but a 4 to 6 mm strand is quite another thing.

I will have to check up on who can do this work and will look into in the coming week but I do know and I believe in my heart and every fibre of my being that they they are for sure 100% but could not advertise as such because I haven't got the paperwork. Only reason I say 99% sure is because of lack of paperwork. Not the knowing.

Will list photos early next week. Have to take better photos and Barry is down this weekend. So next week. Will dig them all up

Dawn
eBay ID dawncee333

 

[Caitlin]

I hope they have a testing lab down there. I think the prices need to be checked out before turning away from the idea. I do think the jist of the various regulations is to prevent people from calling cultured pearls natural. The problem in this thread is a specific example of cultured pearls passed off a natural, either with an undisclosed pearl nucleus or round keshi passing as natural.

I am pretty sure when I see natural pearls, especially in a strand. But I would not sell such a strand with a natural claim. In the 1% you say you are not sure of, lies the possibility you are selling as natural, a pearl that is cultured. The only way to avoid that, is not to make any claims about naturalness unless you are backed up by a lab report.

Obviously a pearl is worth the price of a lab report. With a lab report, you will get real buyers, real collectors. Without the certificate, you get far less money and don't get people who know better. I believe that Tom and Steve have both made getting a certificate as part of the deal for some pearls and this would be true of many people in their leagues.

Whenever I see a natural claim, I raise my eyebrows unless they say certified. Like that one I brought up a week or so ago.

If they just say vintage and let me make the leap that I think it is natural without help, I might bid low

 

[Bodecia]

Okay, that sounds like a good idea although I need to work on a reasonable price to put on them first and get the price of having the tests. But I am sure it could be worked out if anyone is interested. Can always list on eBay but that is not a good place to sell naturals.

Thanks, Dawn

Dawn
eBay ID dawncee333

 

[Caitlin]

Let me repeat, you are not selling naturals unless you have a certificate that says so. eBay is (used to be) a good place to buy naturals, because many people do not know what they are selling.

We have the various countries' rules about that around on the forum.

 

[Valeria101]

Should someone here buy one of those [LINK] keshi-nukes and cut it in half?

Somehow, it has been done.


See down the link below the latest SEEF Addendum on unusual 'beads' found in cultured pearls:

http://www.ssef.ch/en/news/newsletter.html

 

[SteveM]

See down the link below the latest SSEF Addendum on unusual 'beads' found in cultured pearls: http://www.ssef.ch/en/news/newsletter.html

The addendum was released as additional clarification following GemLab's specific alert on the detection of natural Pinna pearls as nuclei.

Using Keshi as nuclei is not at issue here, as these are detected using normal XRAY techniques. It is the pre-screening of large quantities of keshi for specimens showing little or no telltale internal 'structures' and the use of natural pearls, specifically the heavily-ringed Pinna, that are the dual problem and focus.

The urgent pearl laboratory conference in Bahrain last week should soon produce some results in terms of a roadmap for continuing certification of natural nacreous pearls. My take is that the individuals in attendance agreed to secrecy pending a joint communiqu

 

[Valeria101]

Using Keshi as nuclei is not at issue here, as these are detected using normal XRAY techniques. It is the pre-screening of large quantities of keshi for specimens showing little or no telltale internal 'structures' and the use of natural pearls, specifically the heavily-ringed Pinna, that are the dual problem and focus.

Agreed - these are different problems and the addendum is picking the low hanging fruit; I put the link here because this smaller issue also came up way up on the thread (quoted).

 

[Valeria101]

Well, just came accross one presentation published from that meeting:


Talk of Dr. M.S.Krzemnicki, Bahrain, June 2010
X-ray micro computed tomography: an explanation of the procedures and benefits



at the end [page 15], it mentions that G&G has picked up one or two articles from the show:



Krzemnicki M., Friess D., Chalus P., H?nni H. A., Karampelas, S. (2010). Micro X-ray Computed Tomography: Distinguishing natural from cultured. G&G, Vol. 37, No. 2 (submitted).


Karampelas S., , J. Michel, M. Zheng-Cui, J.-O. Schwarz, F. Enzmann, E. Fritsch, L.Leu, Krzemnicki, M.S. (2010). X-ray Computed Micro-Tomography Applied to Pearls: Advantages and Limitations. G&G, Vol. 46, No. 2 (submitted).



Tough choice!



.

 

[SteveM]

Hainschwang/GemLab with further findings.

These are high-class crooks, making use of smaller sized, low-grade naturals as nuclei.

(Admin: There are about 3 threads going on this issue at the moment, perhaps combining them would be best.)

 

[CortezPearls]

They are skilled crooks with a Silver-Lip pearl farm at their disposal. To avoid risks I would not buy any Pinctada maxima natural pearls, but would focus on other species...black-lips, Pipi, and -of course- Gulf of California Natural Pearls that glow red under long-wave UV light (so easy to tell them apart)...

 

[Caitlin]

Link to early story containing Bonhams description of how keshi are natural pearls.

this is from LINK to bonhams Steve posted before.

Natural Black Color Keshi Pearl, Aquamarine and Diamond Necklace
South Seas near Tahiti
Possessing a whimsical charm entirely different to the perfectly round, large pearls typically cultivated in the waters off northern Australia, "seedless" Keshi pearls arise spontaneously and are a bi-product of the culturing process of Akoya and South Sea pearls. Not well-known and rather misunderstood—Keshi pearls are, in fact, a type of natural pearl. During the process of making a cultured pearl, farmers sometimes find these pearls, identical in every way to a natural pearl, except for the fact that the oyster was touched by human hands before the Keshi pearl was found. Keshis are created naturally in the soft tissue of most cultured pearl-bearing oysters and mussels. They are usually formed by the accidental intrusion of tiny natural organisms such as parasites, eggs, sand, fragments of shell, or small particles of mantle tissue that have detached themselves from the implanted nucleus. Keshi is a Japanese term meaning "seed", referring to the typically small size in which these pearls are found—usually in the 2 to 10mm size.

"Seed pearl keshi" can be 10mm? That is a stretch from Jeremy's earlier definition of seed pearl keshi being 2mm and under being called natural. This paragraph appears to be the kind of approach the auction house will argue. So who is in charge of defining keshi as natural- at any size.