Tom Stern's natural pearls

From the pictures these remind me of vintage costume jewelry, like the pearls in fashionable 50s labels and such. Always wanted to know what exactly makes the difference between these coatings - naturals included! (imagining some frightfully subtle technicalities, perfect for an afternoon read that hasn't been written yet...)
 
I wish there are more pictures. I don't think they look impressive though. The photos from the 2nd link FX posted look like FW to me. Although the first pic may lean a little more towards Tahitian. I still think dyed FW are the closest to Tahitian black pearls. Just MHO.
 
Thanks effisk.. I am sure they must look better in person if Dr T is impressed by them. I will keep a lookout. Almost seems these 'pearls' are the antithesesis of this thread's title, though..
Cathy, I think that imitation pearls are best when they aren't trying to look like the real thing.. the grey/pink/white combination that is on the Majorca site is the colour grouping I get asked for most frequently, along with baroque whites which are just way too uniform, with lustre also too intense and consistent, to look like the real deal.
 
It may sound funny to own fakes, but I bought one high-end pelosi-style necklace/earring set just to round out my collection.

I collect diamond substitutes like Synthetic Rutile, Strontium Titanate and Yttrium Aluminum Garnet and it does nothing to dampen my enthusiasm for the real thing! ;)
 
Baroque Pearls

Baroque Pearls

In the Economist Magazine of April 11, 2009, I found an interesting article that includes photos of a fabulous sculpture made of baroque pearls. On page 86.

A magnificent style is given its due in an exhibition at London's Victoria and Albert Museum until July 19th. The quintessentially baroque piece which begins the display comes from the Green Vault treasury in Dresden, and "it spotlights the gem that was later to give the style its name."

According to the article, during that period people treasured baroque pearls as natural wonders. By the late 18th century taste had changed; baroque pearls were disdained as imperfect.

Look for this article. The photo of the sculpture is quite memorable.

My opinion: Now that synthetic pearls and cultured pearls have reached perfection, there will be a shift in taste amongst fashion leaders toward baroque pearls, since they look less "fake." In BaselWorld I saw a great number of baroque natural pearls used in remarkable brooches and other ornaments.

I don't recall if I've mentioned this before, but in 2008, there were approximately 5 dumptruck loads of gem grade diamonds loosed on the marketplace; while I believe there were fewer natural pearls than to fill a 5 gallon pail. Interesting, eh?

Regards to all,
Tom
 
Nice article and incredible sculpture. That 'Baroque' would derive from the world of pearls seems incredible. Of course Bach, Handel and the world of architecture and art had no concurrent concept of the term. Found this history of the term quoted by a third party from the Oxford Companion to Art:

Until the 19th c. it remained a synonym of 'absurd' or 'grotesque'. The meaning 'irregular' is attributed on the assumption, dubiously supported, that the word derives from the Portuguese "barocco," an irregular pearl. The word was rehabilitated and elevated to a technical term in the language of art history and criticism by Burckhardt (1855) and Wolfflin [who] first applied the concept to literature in his Renaissance und Barock (1888).

Examples on Pearl-Guide of fantastic baroque pearls used in sculpture (thanks in large part to Valeria101!) include the abalone sea lion below. Recalling some impressive objets d'art during a visit to Samuel Saidian & Sons in Manhattan last year, I checked their site today and discovered this pearl-loving ape!
 

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There must be an entire bestiary of baroque pearl mounts out there... The little monsters appear to have been a self-sustaining trickle of fashion all of their own since the 1500's. ['bet they're already in some coffee-table book; just haven't looked for it yet!]



According to the article, during that [Baroque] period people treasured baroque pearls as natural wonders. By the late 18th century taste had changed; baroque pearls were disdained as imperfect.


Always wondered why was that - could it be that Europe was simply NOT the main destination for fine natural pearls then?
 
Originally Posted by DrTKStern

According to the article, during that [Baroque] period people treasured baroque pearls as natural wonders. By the late 18th century taste had changed; baroque pearls were disdained as imperfect.

Always wondered why was that - could it be that Europe was simply NOT the main destination for fine natural pearls then?

Seems that the transition from Baroque to Classical applied to pearls as well. The march towards symmetry and perfection may have ultimately resulted in??Mikimoto!

Pearl of Allah's ultimate purpose: 200 years' worth of Baroque counterpoint?
 
Well... yes... sure that.

I've never thought of it before writing the previous post... but while at it, it became obvious that I could not claim that the style of jewelry was confined to some historic period, because ... I could always find some counter-examples! Sure, the form is best known among the more outrageous pearl jewelry preserved from around 1600 (the unusual components and artistic nature may have helped more then initial prevalence, I suspect, but can't guesstimate further). But then, the style has not stopped: it goes forth through 'monumental' silver, then Renaissance revival and Art Nouveau have their pearl beasts riding up with the scariest of them, there are modern ones under Buccellati and VCA signatures (possibly inspired by specific commissions? Who knows... but not hard to imagine given the image of 'rarefied curiosity' the type has on record - perfect!).

Would bet that that there are more such objects being produced these days, only rarely publicised. Say, Schepps's house style is a great fit entirely. If anything, I expect more of the kind given where fashion jewelry is going with large, constructivist pieces (Boucheron's anniversary got some such from under wraps) bidding eastward... For some reason, publicity is not for dreamers - whatever gets plastered on the walls are highly reproductible models (an error that seems to be correcting itself, would you agree?), and what we're talking about is anything but.

Given that enormous baroque pearls - natural or not are just a few and such objects anything but mainstream, I wonder whether their (media) visibility is what has been declining, not presence. If anything, the objects have their own logic (how better to parley a curio-pearl into a recognizable gem?) - whether there has been a true continuity of reference for the type of objects or not.

There are gaps in the 'story' - of course. Perhaps the best investigation / experiment with the theory are the current attempts to market the concept, but even so, I'm not going to suggest that 'reading' between the lines of fashion is ever the same as doing the deed. You probably know that already better then I whether a 'good story' ever makes a difference, no matter how well if works through the records... And one this long also raises expectations for design and its technical execution a great deal.
 
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Baroque Pearl Sea Creature

Baroque Pearl Sea Creature

And one this long also raises expectations for design and its technical execution a great deal.

In Basel, I saw a wonderful sea creature made of a large baroque pearl, out of Milan.

www.paolaferro.com

There were others, which I'll mention later.

Best,
Tom
 
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Hollow Natural Pearl Reading

Hollow Natural Pearl Reading

GIA Thai has started to put research reports up online for some time, and the latest is of a large pearl with some story ('An unusual pearl...').

The paper describes the lab works along the way (all the more interesting for that, methinks):

http://www.giathai.net/lab_research_notes_VP03.php

The Above Links came courtesy of Valeria101. Both articles make great reading, as we inch our way toward understanding the criteria by which the big labs decide whether a hollow pearl is natural or non-bead nucleated.

Best to all,
Tom
 
Bahrain Pearl Divers

Bahrain Pearl Divers

By A. Craig Copetas
May 13 (Bloomberg) ? The traders at the Londn Metal Exchange don?t see the luster in calcium carbonate.

?I?ve never even heard of calcium carbonate,? says LME ring trader Andrew Silver at Natixis Commodity Markets Ltd. in London. ?We might as well trade cement,? says Alex Heath, metals director at RBC Capital Markets, about creating a futures market for the chemical compound used to make schoolroom chalk.

Some 20 feet beneath the Persian Gulf, off the coast of the island kingdom of Bahrain, former Nynex Corp. sales manager Robert Montfort-Jones, 46, reckons that?s a harsh assessment. The Englishman and skipper of the 30-foot diving vessel Crow surfaces with his morning oyster catch, grabs a knife and starts shucking for luxury calcium carbonate ? pearls. Natural pearls.

?Squeeze the goo like a pimple and the pearls pop out,? says Montfort-Jones. He?s general manager of Beaucraft WLL, one of a handful of recently established pearl-prospecting and marine-service companies run by expatriates seeking opportunity amid the worst economic slump since the Great Depression.

Out they burst, seed pearls mostly, about 0.5 millimeters in size and worth a king?s ransom when strung together. But forget about opening a simple oyster shack: Species pinctada radiata makes real money and, Montfort-Jones says, going after them commercially is no Great Depression dream. ?All we need is some investment capital,? the pearler says.

Christie?s Auction

In April, natural-saltwater pearls were on the menu at the Christie?s International Jewels and Watches Dubai Sale, where a five-strand necklace of 452 natural pearls sold for $158,500.

Montfort-Jones sits on the cutting edge of a nascent enterprise of buccaneers in bathing trunks, scuba tanks and a flare for a swashbuckling lifestyle. While precious-metal experts say there?s a buoyant market for Bahrain?s natural pearls, they cite a woeful lack of people willing to take the plunge.

?Nobody is really pearling and I need supply,? rues Vijay Shah, director of Al Hashimi Pearls in Bahrain. ?We have the world?s last untapped and sustainable natural-pearl beds, hundreds of miles of them, we?re swamped with oysters.?

The United Nations says that there are more than 50,000 hectares (123,500 acres) of intact oyster beds off Bahrain with an estimated density of between 23,000 and 43,600 oysters per hectare, offering the ?highest and finest quality of pearls.?

New Revenue

Pearling those beds on a regular basis could ?potentially contribute to enlarged productivity? and create ?a new source of revenue that never managed to enter Bahraini society,? according to a 2008 report filed by the Bahrain government with the UN?s World Heritage Committee.

In April, for instance, Shah sold a 63-strand necklace threaded with 100,000 seed pearls to a private European auctioneer for $72,000. ?Natural pearls are a much better investment than cultured pearls because they appreciate,? Shah says. ?Cultured pearls do not appreciate in value, they are the used cars of the jewelry trade.?

Perhaps that?s why no cultured or freshwater pearls adorn the crown of Queen Elizabeth II. Since 1485, the crown of every British monarch has been studded with natural pearls. The 41- year-old Shah pours a large thimble of them on a velvet-lined tray and serves up a possible reason behind the queen?s taste.

?Your basic 1.12-karat natural Bahrain pearl is around $60,? Shah says. ?That same size in a Pacific cultured pearl is $5 and less than 60 cents for a mass-produced Chinese freshwater pearl.?

Chocolate Button

Shah has been in the business since the age of 16, and says he just sold a 9.33-karat Bahrain baroque teardrop with the bulk of a raspberry for $20,736 and a 103-piece, 86-karat pearl necklace for $33,000. His piece de resistance, though, is a chocolate-colored Bahraini ?button? pearl the size of a pinkie nail and shaped like a woman?s breast with a stout nipple.

?Most unusual, very rare and look, you can see your reflection,? Shah says. ?Reserve auction value on the button is minimum $9,000, but there are private buyers willing to pay three times that price.?

Ali Mohammad Safar, director of Precious Metals & Gemstone Testing at the Bahrain Ministry of Industry and Commerce, suspects the button may fetch an even higher price. Just about every pearl that comes out of the Gulf passes through his laboratory, and that amounted to 758,000 natural Bahraini pearls in 2008, including one ?the size of a fist,? Safar says.

?My father was a pearl diver, my grandfather was a pearl dealer, and I?m a pearl detective,? Safar says. ?Most people think natural pearls are a myth. Cultured K. Mikimoto & Co. pearls from the Pacific,? Safar, 59, sighs, shaking his head over what he calls the Japanese ?imposter,? the world?s largest producer of cultured pearls, which are prohibited by law from being sold in Bahrain.

Bacteria Assault

It takes Safar?s eight-person staff as long as two days to verify a natural pearl. Cultured pearls when viewed through the likes of Safar?s Raman electron microscope look like olives stuffed with pimentos. Natural pearls are solid creatures created by bacteria that have penetrated the shell.

?We don?t value, we verify,? Safar says. ?Though we did authenticate a 16-inch necklace that later sold for $500,000, the fruit of our shallow and sweet saltwaters.?

Back aboard the Crow, Montfort-Jones says that all it takes is ?a bucket, a rope and a lot of grabbing? to become part of the entrepreneurial adventure. As he tells it, ?the uglier the oyster, the more likely it has a pearl.?

Robert Gregory, president of the pearl-diving firm R&R WLL, fires up a cigarette, unties a red sack and displays two handfuls of the more than 100,000 naturals he says he has plucked from Bahrain?s waters. Gregory started pearling in 1969, when he was hired as underwater cameraman for the movie ?Hamad and the Pirates.?

The 58-year-old pearl prospector gives most of his catch to his mother back in England. ?She has more pearls than the Queen,? he says.

Renting a Skiff

Gregory says the real motherload will remain underwater until he finishes attracting $1.5 million in outside financing to create a truly commercial operation with a return of $6 million after the first year. Montfort-Jones says he can pull it off for $250,000, enough to operate an 80-foot dhow pearl boat and hire a small crew of divers.

Or you could just rent a skiff and set sail 40 nautical miles north to the Shatyyah beds with a sack and a snorkel.

Professional pearlers say that there?s more than enough to go around and that so far there?s no law against exporting them from Bahrain. Return rates vary from one pearl for every four to six shucked oysters, more if you know where to pick. Between swigs of diet cola, Gregory blusters that he can retrieve five big pearls from every 100 oysters.

?After 4,000 years of pearling, the Bahrainis completely stopped when oil was discovered back in the 1930s, so those beds are overflowing with eight decades of oysters,? Gregory says.

Vacant Beds

The result is viable, according to Gati Rabbani, executive director of the two-year-old Pearl Exchange at the Dubai Multi Commodities Center.

?The pearl trade is a $400 million a year business and investment in natural pearls is where it?s at,? Rabbani says from her 62nd-floor office, overlooking the now vacant oyster beds of the United Arab Emirates.

All that?s left of Dubai?s halcyon pearling days is the exchange, with a volume so far this year of $5.5 million, mostly from the sale of cultured pearls.

Still, Rabbani is bullish. She says that the Bahrain pearl business is poised for a comeback and that her 25-member exchange ? a clearing house that sits pearlers alongside jewelers, individual buyers and auction houses ? sees the recession as an opportunity to encourage fashionistas to trade in their diamonds for the elegant modesty of natural pearls.

Diamonds, Platinum

To drive that style statement home to investors, precious- gem merchants gathered in Dubai last March for the World Pearl Forum offered up research that showed the gross margin on the sale of pearls is 58.2 percent more than loose diamonds, diamond jewelry, gold and platinum jewelry.

?The only risk is pearlers don?t know what they?ll come back with,? Rabbani cautions. ?But natural pearls will always command a high price and there?s no new supply outside Bahrain.?

Up the Gulf, Gregory strokes Psyche, his one-eyed pug dog, and has a story to tell. ?My record is 209 pearls in one oyster,? he says. ?Richest single find was back in 2002, a light yellow sold to a Kuwaiti dealer for $21,400. That pearl was so round that you could have played snooker with it.?

To contact the writer on the story: A. Craig Copetas in Paris at ccopetas@bloomberg.net.

Last Updated: May 12, 2009 19:00 EDT
taken from bloomberg.com 5-13-2009

There are a number of inaccuracies in this story, particularly about the lack of other fresh pearl beds, but it is interesting anyway. Tom
 
Ramona was kind enough to post this the other day. It is extremely interesting, especially the comparison of cultured pearls to used cars!

However, the article reads like the pitch of a snake-oil salesman or pyramid/Ponzi schemer, with its wild claims of pristine (with the oil spills and outrageous shoreline development?) pearl beds, incredible yields, and low startup costs. Something's missing in the formula even if the claims are true, such as a pearling license from the UAE. Licenses held by Seattle crabbers, as an example, are worth millions and are strictly rationed.
 
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Futures market for CaCO3 sounds exotic, but I've already been through my share of wonder on the topic a few months ago - with THESE news. Come to think of it, these bits of desirable matter already are the oldest investment asset in history, aren't they?

I've been wondering since whether the fellows behind this may have thought to translate the properties of the historic market into a modern investment vehicle, or are simply playing up risk accounting regulations. Clearly, the relation remains out there, whether practical or not... Tried to get the topic discussed on the gemology forum, but to little effect.


The trade of white diamonds is sometimes described as a 'lemons' (Akerlof, 70) market - I am guessing that this is where the comparison comes from (if so, I'd have a fair number of questions on the approach!).
 
Hi Dr. Stern (Tom) - I agree that there are a few inaccuracies in that story. The reference to Raman for instance should surely refer to X-radiography/microradiography. It is also not a Raman 'electron' microscope. Quite interesting nonetheless. Thanks for posting it.
 
Cultured Pearls are not Pearls

Cultured Pearls are not Pearls

The following is a directive from the United States Government, 2008. It is high time that cultured pearls be identified as required by law. Simply put, they are not "Pearls."

Best to all,
Tom




Pearls
You are required to tell consumers if the pearls you're selling are cultured or imitation. Your ads should not use the word pearl - by itself - unless the advertised product consists only of natural pearls. If the product contains cultured pearls, the word "cultured" or "cultivated" - or a synonym - should immediately precede the word pearl.

A statement that discloses only the type of cultured pearl you're selling - for example, freshwater, South Sea or Akoya pearls - does not comply with the requirement. Instead, say that the pearls are cultured: cultured freshwater pearls, South Sea cultured pearls or Akoya cultured pearls. If the product contains imitation pearls, use the word "artificial," "imitation," "simulated," or a synonym immediately preceding the word pearl.

Some black, bronze, gold, purple, blue and orange pearls, whether natural or cultured, occur that way naturally; others are dyed through various processes. You are required to tell consumers whether colored pearls are naturally colored, dyed or irradiated.

For More Information
To learn more about making accurate representations of diamonds, gemstones, pearls, and other jewelry products, including gold, silver and platinum, ask for a free copy of the FTC's Guides for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries. Call the FTC, toll-free, at 1-877-FTC-HELP (382-4357); TDD: 1-866-653-4261 or read it online at www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.shtm.
 
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