Hi all,
Back here in Sydney, after an extremely busy 4 days in and around Shanghai. I haven't picked up my pearls yet from the airport (needed to be cleared through a customs broker first), but I will post some "representative" photos when I collect them tomorrow.
Firstly - Shanghai versus Zhuji/Weitang(near Suzhou)
There is a lot to be bought in Shanghai, and anyone seriously looking for pearls would be well advised to look at lots of the traders in the city before heading off to the bigger markets. There are LOTS of good traders in Shanghai - I spent quite a bit of time (and eventually money) at both 558 Nanjing Road East (remember the East - this translates as Nanjing Dong Lu, there is a Nanjing Road West just to keep you totally confused), and also the traders at Pearl's Circle at 288 Fuyou Road. This last market is in a touristy area (Yuyuan Gardens) above a very glitz-and-glamour looking jewellery store, so you need to take the escalators up to the 3rd floor - it seems not too many tourists find there way up there, surprisingly! Handle lots of pearls, and ask lots of questions - you will soon find out which traders have direct links to the growers, and are not just middle men buying cheap stock to resell to tourists. The more they think you know, the more honest they will be regarding price and quality. It is very hard though to find out exactly what price they will sell for until it is clear that you are going to buy - so that makes it a little difficult to do comparative price shopping prior to heading out of town.
I said in my last post that I was going to go to Zhuji - the cost for a private vehicle transport for the day to Zhuji and return was about 2000RMB, which I thought was a little high - or 2 hours by train and then by taxi 1.5 hours as discussed several times in this forum. It was VERY cold in Shanghai - about 1degree celsius, and unfortunately I was reasonably unwell with a flu virus, so I opted out of 7 hours travel time and went to Weitang instead. I caught a public train from Shanghai to Suzhou - you need to do this from the main Shanghai Railway Station - which as Raisondetre has said, is quite chaotic, and probably not for the fainthearted. I have done this before so wasn't too daunted! If you are going to travel out of Shanghai by train try to get a D class train - they travel at around 160-170 kph, and are very comfortable. Demand is high - it might pay to go to the railway station the day before to purchase your ticket, and this will help you orientate yourself regarding platform numbers etc. Last time in Shanghai I had the hotel do it for me and I think I was charged about 60USD for a ticket that sells at the station for around $3 - so much better to do it yourself- you can buy a lot of pearls for the difference!
Taxi to Weitang from Suzhou was about 55RMB - I had the concierge at the hotel write down the details for me before I left Shanghai so that I wouldn't get stranded in Suzhou!
How to dress? I figure that if you are caucasian and shopping in China, no matter what you wear, you are "wealthy" to them - so dress to suit yourself!! In Weitang (as I said, it was freezing, and the huge market has no heating.... most traders were sitting around in full length snow gear!) I did my usual look of black trousers, white shirt etc. etc. with the warmest long jacket I own, all of which would have looked quite "businessy". A couple of traders actually commented - saying that I looked as if I knew what I was doing - maybe foolishly, I took it as a compliment! I don't wear jewellery when shopping for pearls - I find I want to see the pearls against my skin - see how earrings hang, how colours reflect and are picked up by clothing etc. etc. so I think it just confuses the issue to have your own stuff on. Also, if you do have pearls on, the traders want to know where you bought them, how much you paid for them - maybe to get an idea of how much you will be prepared to pay for their goods??
Weitang probably has about 60 pearl traders on the bottom floor, and the top floor seems to have jade and other stones. I thought I would get a chance to browse around upstairs just for interest, but I ended up being short of time so I can't really talk aobut what is available, prices etc...
There are stores around the perimeter of the building (huge, built like a high school gymnasium but 4 times the size), and traders in booths in rows in the central atrium. If you are looking for smaller pearls, the central booths seemed to have great quality stock. I ended up in a perimeter store, owned and operated by a family who farmed their own pearls. Their college-aged daughter spoke reasonable English, and I had mum and dad both coming in to negotiate and show me various pearls. I needed to have my pieces finished - I don't string my own strands (I really must learn!!!) - and this is one of the issues for me with shopping out of town. It takes TIME! I was buying ropes - I wanted about 15 in all - and it just takes too long for these smaller operators to string that many pearls if you want to take them with you. The quality and prices were fantastic - I bought some gorgeous lavender strands of 10 - 11mm for around 500RMB AA+ quality. The ropes were AA 8-9mm and were about 300RMB for 3.5 strands. I also bought many strands of 6-7mm rice pearls - fabulous lustre - for around 35RMB (around $5.20 Australian - maybe $4 US?) and 8 - 9mm for 45RMB - for a jewellery making friend. I also bought some very unusual rectangular pearls made into 2 and 3 strand necklaces from another trader. I really do think most mid size designers and retailers would find the quality, volumes and prices that they require in Weitang. However - with only one day available for me, I found it impossible to buy everything on my wish list there, and so returned to Shanghai with only about 20% of my requirements met! I asked a couple of Weitang traders about Zhuji - mostly they intimated that the volumes required for purchase are very high. Still, I might go on my next trip, just for interest! If the maglev train comes to fruition, the travel time will be down to about 1 - 1.5 hours from Shanghai - perfect!!
I went to LingLing in Nanjing Road first - and did do a bit of buying there - I will post piccies and prices tomorrow - but did find them a bit overpriced on the more interesting shapes. One thing I was looking for were fabulously big coin pearls - about 17mm if possible - and LingLing had some gorgeous oval shaped ones that started at around $4000 Australian and ended up at $950!! She also had a gorgeous strand of keshis that I couldn't negotiate below $1000. Don't know what you all think, but I think that is extremely high!! I did get good prices on the pieces I bought, and was generally happy with the experience. I also bought a few pieces from Daxi pearls - also on the second level - some rectangular coin pearls with great lustre - for about 80RMB per strand, and was very tempted by their highest quality 11-12mm for around 5000RMB - they were just gorgeous, but out of my league for the moment!
I ended up doing most of my buying from Lisa's Pearls on the 3rd level - for me, they ticked all the boxes - owner of the store came to deal with me after my second visit; very nice quality with their own farms; lots of staff, which meant that my pieces could get made quickly (overnight for about 60 pieces); and some good cheaper lines of nice designs - pearl lariats, interesting necklaces - all for between 35 and 100RMB per piece - these will resell well. They also worked with me to do some lovely single pearl pieces on both leather and 14K gold chain, with 12 - 13mm white and dyed black FW's. Interestingly, although this store was unknown to me, on my second visit I met an Australian designer who has always bought her pearls there - buying similar volumes to me!!
All in all - it was fabulous to buy in person - the quality of what I have brought home is far better than what I have been purchasing online and via email communication. The trip was very educational - both about doing business generally, doing business in China in particular, and in improving my knowledge and confidence as a pearl seller. However, I do feel that I will need to go back to buy in person when I need more pearls. I just don't think pearl buying is something you can do without handling the product yourself. Next visit I will take more time - I think a total of 7 days away rather than 5. My other advice would be to do as I did and keep a spreadsheet of your requirements/budget/expenditure to date with you whilst away, and update it each evening - it is very easy to overspend!! Isn't it always?? Also - check with customs before you leave - in Australia, for purchases over $1000, tax of 10% is payable on entry, plus 5% duty on finished jewellery products, and work this into your budget up front. Organise a broker before you leave home!
Sorry to have prattled on so long - hope this may be of use to others who are planning similar trips!
Nerida.