Soaking Pearls overnight in saltwater to revive them?

[richipat]

I was talking to a girl at lunch today and she was so exicited because she found some pearls this weekend at a yard sale. She said they looked "old and crusty" so yesterday she called her jeweller who told her to soak them overnight in salt water to rehydrate them. She mentioned that they were soaking today while she was at work and hoped they would be "done" tonight so she could wear them tomorrow.

Gasp!! Is this even possible?

 

[jshepherd]

Oops! The jeweler should have told her to just peel the pearls with a pair of pliers. Does she even know what type of pearls they are?

This is a classic example of some one in the trade not being able to answer a question about pearls honestly... this way, "I really don't know, you should check pearl-guide.com".

 

[Raisondetre]

Geez, I'd have thought soaking in mineral oil would work better. People should really know than to believe what others say. It's so easy to research online.

 

[Caitlin]

I'd think twice about soaking akoyas in salt water, let alone overnight. I think their stabilization processes make them imcompatible with water of any kind.

Salt is dehydrating. I have used a salt slurry to clean my natural Persian Gulf pearls, but they did not sit in the solution, they just slooshed in it until the pearls were clean. THEN I rehydrated them with several baths of pure water and let them sit in the bathroom.

I would not try salt with PPB's- cultured saltwater pearls. Why risk drying them out...they could detach from their foundations, if dry enough.

I have heard of corn oil used on FW pearls and mineral oil, but mineral oil is actually kind of drying too.

For CFWP I like to use plain water to rinse and a light coating of a pure, refined veggie oil, such as jojoba and other very fine oils that are good for human faces. I mean a very light coating. I rub a little on my palms and pass the pearls through my hands. You do not want a build up of grease on your pearls.

 

[Raisondetre]

Mineral oil is actually one of the most basic moisturisers used in alot of skincare products. Oils themselves do not rehydrate. They merely form a film to seal in a moisture. There are a few oils that are good for human skin, with a lipid profile that is more miscible with the cell membranes, but it may not always be good for pearls due to the acidity. Extra virgin olive oil, squalene and rosehip would be my top choices for skin, but I generally would not use them for pearls. Rosehip has a bit of retinioid in it. Jojoba is generally too heavy for good skincare.

I wouldn't soak pearls in anything. They have been treated at the source, and anything else is maintenance. Washing them and then patting on a thin film of oil like Caitlin says is the way to go.

 

[Caitlin]

Mineral oil has actually been a basic cosmetic oil only since petroleum began to be refined.

It is not the best ingredient for human skin- Heavy use of mineral has caused lesions in the liver and lymph nodes because the mineral oil is is not processed and transformed by humans, its droplets are so fine, they just physically sink through the skin into deeper and deeper tissues until it actually, physically, drifts into the liver or lymph nodes, which are not set up to process it.
. http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,887690,00.html?promoid=googlep

http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,887690,00.html?promoid=googlep
What's more alarming, fine droplets of mineral oil can go through the intestinal wall and reach the liver and lymph nodes, where, doctors suspect, they may cause dangerous lesions. Autopsies have revealed such droplets in patients' tissues.

Although this study referred to those who had intense contact with mineral oil. I do not think it is best for human use or anything else that comes into contact with humans such as pearls.

Pearls and human skin oils are traditionally said to be very compatible, so I would want to use an oil that enhances both. As I have extremely thin, delicate skin which gets inflamed by cosmetics easily, I have investigated oils for use on the skin for 40 some odd years. Age has just exagerated my youthful problems!

Jojoba, though thick by itself, is actually made up of droplets that are individually capable of easy absortion by delicate skin. Jojoba, alone, is very compatible for skin use and has a history of thousands of years of use- in contrast to mineral oil. It is a native remedy here in the southwest desert country, but easily cultivated and available everywhere.

My favorite skin oil and one I do not react to with redness or irritation is Linda Sy's "Vita oil for delicate skins" Its main ingredient is jojoba oil followed by lecithin and other vegetable oil and ingredients that make it clear yellow, thin, and easily spreadable. I love it and my pearls love it.

 

[Casey.R]

I don't know about pearls, but I do know about skin. I make my own lotions ( soap too ), and I probably wouldn't use mineral oil as an ingredient. Olive oil I love, I use in in everything along with shea butter and almond oil. Some oils can be more drying than others.

 

[Caitlin]

This is the first reference I found for jojoba oil. It matches my sentiments exactly. While the original processors of my CFWP can use corn oil as an inexpensive alternative, once I get my pearls home, when and if I need something, I use jojoba oil sparingly, which does provide a kind of hydration, while mineral oil allows dehydration.....

Jojoba oil and its Many Benefits Guest Author - Carolyn Schweitzer


Women have been using Jojoba oil as a beauty treatment for decades, if not centuries. Native Americans used to extract the oil from jojoba beans as a treatment for cuts, sores and bruises, as well as sunburn. It has been applied to both face and scalp to help prevent evaporation and provide lubrication for dry, flaky skin. It absorbs easily, is non-greasy, and is very pleasant and soothing no matter what your skin type. Many women claim that jojoba oil also has a minimizing effect on pores!

Jojoba oil, like other natural oils, is considered a "natural moisturizing factor". Just like the lipids that are naturally found in your skin, it helps fight surface roughness, flaking, and fine lines. But it isn't reserved just for those who have dry skin. People with acne-prone skin, who suffer more than others from clogged pores and blackhead formation, tend to avoid oil-based products like the plague. They assume that all oil-based products will make their acne worse.

Not so! Due to the unique molecular structure of jojoba oil, not only will it mix readily with the skin's natural oils, but studies have shown that it can even inhibit the growth of certain types of bacteria associated with acne.

Jojoba oil is also soothing for skin conditions like rosacea and sebborheic dermatitis, and will not cause flare-ups. By helping to reinforce the structure of the skin's outer layer (the epidermis), jojoba oil -along with the natural oils produced by the skin- is extremely helpful in the healing process. Natural oils help prevent individual cells from losing moisture, and aid in keeping the skin smooth and supple.

Another oil that benefits the skin and has a low comedogenic (pore-clogging) factor is Almond oil, which also makes for a great massage oil. However, it hasn't been shown to have the antibacterial benefits of Jojoba oil.

You can purchase Jojoba oil in it's pure form as a cold pressed extract. It's a pleasant, odorless oil that resists going rancid, so it's shelf life is excellent. A little dab is all you need, gently massaged into your skin!

 

[richipat]

Well, I saw the pearls. Interesting developments.

They were definately still "crusty" but she said much cleaner

Around the holes when I looked closely, there is some peeling of the nacre.

I am guessing these are a set of 1950-60's cultured salt water pearls -- they are a graduated strand which I believe was really popular back then and the clasp looks like gold.

Good news. Her husband didn't think that was the right thing to do, so he took them out of the water behind her back and left them to dry on a towel.

She was pleased with them. She thought they were so much cleaner. I send her some links to this site and to some pearl vendors so she could see what really good pearls look like. I am hoping she will read this forum and become a convert.

It is sad that some jewelers don't really know anything about pearls. To the end user, pearls are jewelry and jewelers are like docotrs -- they should know every thing about all jewelry. Anything they say people believe.

Great discussion on oil. Thanks everyone.

 

[Caitlin]

Hi Casey
I agree with you about making cosmetics and using natural veggie oils. The ones you mention are great for skin. There is no oil that is easier to get than EVOO, which is available about anywhere. You'd have to go to a co-op or health food store for almond or jojba, or, as I now do, get them on line.

My favorite , Linda Sy vita oil, is available online. It is the next best thing to homemade.

Anyway, I would not soak saltwater cultured pearls in anything, for any reason.

 

[jshepherd]

I agree, they should never be soaked. The pearls sound like akoya, and those should not even be soaked in freshwater.

Your friend should just be thankful the jeweler did not tell her to feed the pearls to a chicken and wait... remember that urban legend, Caitlin?

 

[richipat]

Ok -- Jer--
You gotta cough up the Urban Legend. You caught my attention.

 

[Caitlin]

The urban legend is that you feed a pearl to a chicken and when it comes out the other end, it will be ................?????

Anyway, Chickens have crops, a little sack in front of their wish bone where they keep little stones or pieces of oyster shell to grind their food as they have no teeth. A pearl fed to a chicken would stay in the crop until it was ground up or the chicken was killed.....

We thought it might be possible that the action in the crop would put a grind on the surface of the pearl, but since you have to kill it to get the ground pearl out, it seems about as sensible as burning down the hut to roast the piglet......

 

[pernula]

I read through this whole thread and am still lost.

I think their stabilization processes make them imcompatible with water of any kind.

Caitlin, could you explain the stabilization process and why would that make Akoyas incompatible with water?

In general, what other pearls are incompatible with water?

Thanks,
pernula

 

[pernula]

May be I should clarify the general question part more:

What pearls are compatible with pure water soaking and contact?

What pearls are compatible with salt water soaking and contact?

If one was to bring pearls to the tropics and the pearls get exposed to sweat (salt water) and rain?

Thanks so much,
pernula

 

[Caitlin]

HI Pernula
The stabilization process is proprietary knowledge. Not a trace of it made it into Strack, for instance and I spent a while looking. So what I know is overheard- maybe at the gem show and it may be wrong, though I doubt it.

What I heard, and maybe if someone else has heard this, let us know, is that the thinner-skinned akoya pearls are kept in water until they are processed or else their delicate thin skins of nacre would dry out and crack. The processing overcomes that obstacle, but afterward, they shouldn't be put in water, but only a damp cloth should be used to clean them. This is a good example of why you should buy better quality akoya pearls and those from a trusted dealer.

There are also other proprietory processes which accentuate the luster so much that, as Strack says, you can't tell what quality the pearl was to begin with. She also adds that you find out later because cheap akoyas may crack and peel in less than a year, even if stored.......so know who you are dealing with.....

I believe that various secret luster processes are used on on all kinds of pearls. All pearls that visit Japan on their way to market are known to receive quite a bit of processing to make them look as good as possible.

Freshwater pearls like humidity and can get wet. I would not use salt, but a very mild castile soap if absolutely necessary.

Natural saltwater pearls also like humidity and can get wet. They can be cleaned by slooshing in a salt slurry, which acts as an abrasive to crud struck on the pearl, but does not scratch the pearls. Natural pearls are often so old that every generation or so they are worn, they need to be cleaned.

Silk does not like water and silk thread that has been washed will need to be replaced. I forget where, but there are some pictures of some of my granpa's Bahraini pearls before and after the salt slurry bath somewhere on this site.

 

[Raisondetre]

Mineral oil has actually been a basic cosmetic oil only since petroleum began to be refined.

It is not the best ingredient for human skin- Heavy use of mineral has caused lesions in the liver and lymph nodes because the mineral oil is is not processed and transformed by humans, its droplets are so fine, they just physically sink through the skin into deeper and deeper tissues until it actually, physically, drifts into the liver or lymph nodes, which are not set up to process it.

I really recommend looking at more scientific sources on which to base any conclusions. That is not to say that the above is wrong - it is just not relevant to the case of topical application. Unless you physically soak a human in a tank full of mineral oil over a number of years, that kind of absorption is unlikely to happen, and even then you'd have to swallow it.

Mineral oil would not be my top choice for human skin, because it has no added benefit other than being occlusive, i.e. it prevents evaporation. Percutaneous "absorption" of oil does not occur via droplets. It's due to the miscibility of the lipids with the cell membranes. That's why alot of oils do not work for different skin types. Intestinal absorption is different - it is reliant on the formation of miscelles or emulsion after breakdown by enzymes. I would neither eat mineral or jojoba oil.

Oils are very individual. I have also been studying the use of oils, humectants, AHAs, BHAs, retinoids, copper peptides, sunscreens etc - you name it. I have yet to find convincing arguments that oils are definitely good for skin. I cannot tolerate oils straight on my skin although I will apply them to my pearls occasionally if I find they lack luster. Jojoba oil is a nice, inert oil that has been for a long time in human history, but it's more likely suitable for dry as opposed to dehydrated skins (which is my skintype), as it is mainly occlusive. Contrary to popular belief, oils do not get well absorbed by the skin. A lipid profile closer to the skin's secretion of sebum will generally be well tolerated, and this will differ with the individual. This is also why some oils will cause comedones - either by irritation or by rebound secretion of sebum by the skin.

The basis of skincare is the provision of moisture and the prevention of evaporation. Without external influences, humectants such as hyaluronic acid in the ground substance surrounding the skin cells, and the collagen network will retain moisture. However, with environmental stresses such as heat and aridity, evaporation tends to occur at a faster rate than can be replaced by the skin. Sebum secretion by the oil glands attached to hair follicles (separate from sweat glands) is thus stimulated. Dry skin lacks this and application of oil can be helpful. Oily skintypes are often dehydrated, and oils may initially help tone down on native secretions by toning down on the negative feedback, but it does not always work. A humectant such as recombinant hyaluronic acid applied topically may help, followed by some oil. The best moisturisers will be a mixture of emollients (i.e. oils) and humectants. Addition of any other active ingredients to rejuvenate the skin is a whole different topic.

But I digress. So, while I agree mineral oil is not the best for skin, fact remains that it is used to soak freshwater pearls at the source, and likely to be harmless topically in small amounts.

 

[Caitlin]

Some do use mineral oil on pearls before we get them. I think it was Jeremy who said he uses corn oil, but I bet olive oil or any cooking oil would be fine for an individual owner to use.

So back to the original point. After washing pearls such as natural sea pearls or cultured freshwater pearls, a finish of some kind of oil is universal.


Once I get them home and I am responsible for the kind of oil that goes on them, I prefer to use an oil I don’t mind having on my skin. I do mind mineral oil because I think it is one of the dumber products thought up by the petroleum industry. IMHO

If one was to bring pearls to the tropics and the pearls get exposed to sweat (salt water) and rain?

I wouldn't want to subject pearls to copious amounts of sweat (take them off, if you get sweaty on your neck, a rub with a damp cloth is in order before putting them away). The silk string will go fast if it keeps getting soaked in sweat.

People who live in places like Fresno or Tucson, don't wear cultured pearls for sweaty outdoor activities during the summer days and never for swimming in a clorinated pool. (Take the earrings off!)

Don't wear them hiking in the jungle, but save them until after your shower when you dress for dinner.

 

[pernula]

Thanks for the info Caitlin. What about salt water cultured pearls like Tahitian? Can they be soaked in freshwater or saltwater? I don't own one yet, but someone else in the family does, might be good to let her know.

That stabilization process seems very extensive.

Jeremy, do you mind me asking whether the baroque Akoyas you have for private sale are untreated? Partly treated?

Thank you.

Regards,
pernula

 

[Caitlin]

Hi Pernula
Just take the word "soaked" out of your vocabulary when it comes to pearls.

If your Tahitians get dirty, wipe them with a damp cloth. I do not own Tahitians or SS pearls, but I wouldn't use salt on anything but natural, solid nacre, sea pearls. And I would not soak them, evere.

Sorry there are so many words in this thread, so it is easy to miss stuff:

Natural saltwater pearls also like humidity and can get wet. They can be cleaned by slooshing in a salt slurry, which acts as an abrasive to crud struck on the pearl, but does not scratch the pearls. Natural pearls are often so old that every generation or so they are worn, they need to be cleaned.

Here is a picture of some of my grandfather's Bahraini pearls before the salt slurry. The one in the middle has had some wear and even slight pealing, but the layers underneath mean all I had to do to restore it, was clean it.