Question about freshwater pearls

[miss emma]

Hello!

I am a jeweller in Melbourne, Australia, and am having a bit of a play with some coloured fresh water pearls. I am combining them with pressed silver forms on necklaces and earrings, but am concerned about the dyes wearing off as customers wear them on the body...

> Obviously bodily oils, sweat, and perfumes would contribute to wear, but apart from those issues, Does anyone know approximately how long these pearls 'last'?
Basically i don't want to be selling say, a $400 necklace that with moderate wear, resulting in the colour 'erroding' in a year!

Any comments or advice anyone has would be greatly appreciated!!

Thank you!

 

[knotty panda]

Check for colorfastness before you make the piece. Ruby beads are notorious for leaching. There are ways to make beads colorfast.

 

[Nerida]

Hi Miss Emma - welcome to the forum! No doubt all our North American buddies are still all fast asleep, but will chime in in a few hours' time.

What types of colours are you talking about? Some FW pearls are dyed black (plum, peacock, copper overtone looking), and usually this is done with an irradiation kind of treatment, which doesn't fade too much, and certainly doesn't wear off. Chocolates seem to be done the same way. The lavenders peaches and pinks are naturally occurring colours.

When it comes to brighter dyes, like red, green, yellow etc., I am not so sure. I don't usually deal in those colours. I can't really imagine though that the dyeing process would differ too much - I am sure someone else will know more about these brighter colours...

Any photos of your work? If you hang around here, you will know that we just LOVE photos..

 

[Nerida]

Oh go on, Knotty - make a liar of me... what time is it where you are??

 

[knotty panda]

8:47 A.M. The clock seems to be set to EST. Been up since 5:00, though.

 

[Nerida]

Wow, 5am is a pretty early start... especially for a Sunday!

 

[pbazar]

color

color

Pearls as somewhat like a stick of chalk they by nature are quite porous therefore absorb the color quite well. I have dealt with pearls that have been treated for many years. I feel confident that a well processed pearl will not precipitously loose its color (colour).

 

[knotty panda]

Textiles are pretty porous too. That doesn't make them colorfast. It can't hurt to check the pearls before using them. Not all manufacturers use the same dyes.

 

[miss emma]

Ah thank you all for your welcome and speedy replies!

Knotty Panda- what is the way to colour fast dyed pearls? I will mainly be using bright coloured pearls (ie reds and purples, and a few brown), so want to make sure they are as protected as possible... Is there a web site that can explain?

also, how (and how well) do you know where the pearls are dyed- a lot of the wholesale shopkeepers have no idea!

Will put up some photos of the necklace I'm working on when I've colour fastened and completed!
Thanks everyone, and keep the advice coming!

 

[Caitlin]

Hi Miss Emma.

To check color fastness, look at the string the pearls came on. If there is rub off on the thread, they aren't colorfast.

Also, soak them in water with a little pure Castille soap if the water discolors, they aren't colorfast.

If nothing happens with either method, they probably are colorfast.

The dyed freshwaters I have dealt with are colorfast, but don't forego the tests on new pearls.

All the CFW pearls are dyed in pearl factories in China.

 

[miss emma]

Caitlin, thank you for your help!!
I don' think they are colour fast, as the string is slightly discoloured..
Also, excuse the ignorance, but what is Castille Soap?is it just a mild soap?

Is there a way of colour fastening them, even if its short term?

I'm a little disappointed as i was really hoping to use the coloured pearls in my work! I suppose i will just need to mention that the colour will wear after some time...?

Is it possible to point me in the right direction of who supplies colour fast FWP?
(Does anyone know of sales in Australia also?)

 

[GemGeek]

I hold my pearls for at least six months if they are not naturally-colored before using them in a product. I had a beautiful strand of dyed aqua pearls that were a faint mint green after four months inside a dark cabinet. The problem is that you can't tell which are the dye jobs that will last. And definitely tell your customers not to leave them lying in the sunshine.

I don't know how to make them color-fast, unfortunately. I hope this little bit of advice helps.

 

[Satine De La Courcel]

I agree with not being able to tell what dye jobs will last longer than others.

To bad we are talking pearls instead of fabrics. I could recommend several colorfasting techniques for fabric but all the ones I know, salt or vinegar baths are ways to harsh to even mention for pearls... Sorry I am at a loss.

Yes sunshie is one good way to naturally bleach your pearls. Taking care of ones pearls is the best way to see they last as long as possible.

cheers
Ash

 

[pattye]

Hi Miss Emma,

Just a few comments based on my experience, but not a lot new info----

I have had some inexpensive dyed pearls, where near the drill hole there seemed to be an excess of dye, they appeared to be dyed after being strung, as the string is the same color, not the clear nylon stuff some gems come on. This might be the case with your dyed pearls. I put them in a little warm water with mild soap, figuring a little bath wouldn't hurt. Also took a soft toothbrush to them. I figure if a dye bath didn't hurt them, this wouldn't either. Some of the color came off the string, which was to be expected, and hopefully any excess dye from the drill hole, but very little off the pearl itself. I laid them on a white towel to dry.

I don't worry about the peacock, since they have been doing that color for a long time----------I don't think I have had any fade like Gemgeek's aqua ones, but also I use mostly natural colors and peacock, well, except for a few reds. I think the color pretty much permeates the whole pearl, so it isn't likely to wear off or anything like that.

I think dislosure to the customer that the pearls are not natural color, and suggestions of good pearl care for the customer to follow would cover your liability.

Would love to see photos of your work,

 

[miss emma]

Oh you guys are the best! thank you!!
I will definitely try the soap bath and let you know how it goes

I have had 2 strands of the dyed red pearls in a airtight bag for about a year (waiting to be ready to whip them into something pretty!) and they haven't changed, but i guess the only way of telling is by doing the bath and a trial run of the necklace myself!

Will keep u posted, but any other suggestions of colour fasting techniques of already dyed pearls,care or any other comments are greatly appreciated!

 

[Satine De La Courcel]

I was told when I was new to pearls and have been under the impression for some time that pearls were supposed to 'need air circulation" and never be stored in an airtight container for "long periods of time". Am I missing something here was I missinformed??

cheers
Ash

 

[pearlescence]

Airtight is indeed not supposed to be good for pearls, but you see them in huge bags at the pearl factories, so I do not know.
Does anyone have any real information as opposed to anecdote?

 

[Nerida]

Miss Emma - all of the dyeing would be done long before any of these pearls hit our Aussie suppliers. It would be impossible to source where the original colour treatment had been done, or what method had been used. The only alternative would be to buy natural colored pearls and do the dyeing yourself... there was some chat on a thread recently about this. They've probably been through half a dozen traders before they get here, and noone would know what had happened to them before that.

 

[pearlescence]

Not always...I know from which supplier I get each of my strands and they each work with one or two factories so they will be fairly traceable.
Indeed I get the rosebud/granulateds specially dyed for me at the factory, for example

 

[miss emma]

Well i tried the warm soap bath for about 5 minutes which resulted in some pale coloured water, then drained and then re soaked them, > clear water! So, obviously it was just the excess... time will surely tell if they fade or not...

I went into one of the pearl suppliers today and asked if the pearls are colour fastned, she said that shes ever had a problem,( o...k.......?) and that they are stored hanging by the window and haven't faded (i had been there many years before, and they were by the window then too, so i guess there is some truth!)

So, i guess its just necessary to tell customers that these coloured pearls are not naturally coloured, they are dyed, care is needed, and there is no guarantee??

Thanks everyone! And pictured are to come
(more posts very welcome!)