Pearl stringing….. opinions, advice?

[Supernova]

Not perfect but took a lot of failed attempts to actually finish a strand.

Any one know where to find 14k solid gold frenchwire?

 

[Pearl Dreams]

I have never seen a source for 14K French wire (gimp).

I buy vermeil gimp from Fire Mountain Gems. I like the 0.8mm gauge for most pearls.
It is flexible and allows you to make smaller, tighter gimp loops.

Vermeil French Wire - Fire Mountain Gems and Beads

Whether your design calls for precious metal or stainless steel, colorful copper or aluminum, you’ll find the right jewelry-making wire for your projects.

www.firemountaingems.com

For white metal clasps I buy the sterling silver gimp:

Wholesale Beads and Jewelry Making Supplies | Fire Mountain Gems and Beads

Jewelry Making Supplies at Low Wholesale Prices - Fast Shipping on All Orders. Free Catalog. Quantity Discounts. Live Friendly Customer Service. Thousands of design Ideas and 100,000 products!

www.firemountaingems.com

 

[BWeaves]

I buy my gimp from our own Pattye:

View FRENCH WIRE GIMP by PatriciaSaabDesigns on Etsy

Shop Premier Thread, Supplies, Gems and Pearls to Cherish by PatriciaSaabDesigns located in Portland, Oregon. Smooth shipping! Has a history of shipping on time with tracking. Speedy replies! Has a history of replying to messages quickly. Rave reviews! Average review rating is 4.8 or higher

www.etsy.com

I've never seen pure 14K gold gimp. It's always plated. I love the different colors and sizes that Pattye carries. I also love her thread for knotting. I threw out all my silks and only buy her threads now.

 

[Supernova]

All the vintage pearl strands have 14k gold wire so I know it has at the very least existed in the past. Please someone let me know if you find any!

How does this look? Any criticism?

 

[pearlescence]

Do they? How do you know? Has the wire been assayed? It is possible to make your own simply by winding wire around a mandrel. I've never tried. That is a low end clasp. I certainly would not use 14ct gold wire with such a clasp.
Also - would the gold be too soft to do its job?

 

[MotherOfPearlTrumpet]

I buy my gimp from our own Pattye:

View FRENCH WIRE GIMP by PatriciaSaabDesigns on Etsy

Shop Premier Thread, Supplies, Gems and Pearls to Cherish by PatriciaSaabDesigns located in Portland, Oregon. Smooth shipping! Has a history of shipping on time with tracking. Speedy replies! Has a history of replying to messages quickly. Rave reviews! Average review rating is 4.8 or higher

www.etsy.com

I've never seen pure 14K gold gimp. It's always plated. I love the different colors and sizes that Pattye carries. I also love her thread for knotting. I threw out all my silks and only buy her threads now.

I didn't know Pattye had an Etsy site...I'll start following her!!! Thanks for this information.

 

[ifutzwithfire]

Huh- I was searching the forums looking for solid gold bead tips or French wire too. Mixing solid precious metal with plated/filled components feels like a cardinal sin… is it a matter of engineering, solid gold wouldn’t hold up, or… see that’s the only reason I can imagine to justify it. If plated is the done thing I’ll do it, I just like to understand the why too.

 

[MotherOfPearlTrumpet]

I understand your thinking, as I felt the same way in the beginning of my pearling journey; if using 14k OR 18k beads/clasps why not use the same in gimp. Protecting the silk against the jump ring or clasp is the reason for gimp. 14K or 18K gimp could technically be made into gimp but with the softness of gold, and the expense, it is just not readily available or perhaps even considered necessary. After all, gold is reaching almost $2,400 per ounce!

Not perfect but took a lot of failed attempts to actually finish a strand.

Any one know where to find 14k solid gold frenchwire?

In looking at your stringing photo, good job! You did really well. It does look like your gimp might be a bit too long and too wide for the thread/pearl size. I try to always use the smallest gimp that will work with the thread. My preferred size for .7 drilled pearls is .6 gimp and #2 silk/thread. Others might think differently. In older strands where they utilize wire wrapped gimp, that wire could be adjusted to the thread size more accurately, and the amount needed was less because wire wrapped gimp "overlaps itself" and covers the thread using less in length. Pre-packaged gimp is basically a "coil" so it bends easily, but can pull apart at the jump ring if the strand is pulled hard enough. The hand-woven gimp typically does not do this, but can have a messier appearance than the coil variety. As in anything jewelry making, it is a personal preference. As you develop you own style of stringing you will decide what looks best and works best for you.
I struggled with how the gimp looked/worked on several of my high dollar projects so I started using 14K or 18K smaller beads right next to the first pearl so that part of the coiled gimp could go into/through the bead and the other side could cinch right up to that gold bead (instead of the pearl) with minimal gimp showing at the jump ring. Typically I use a 2mm, 3mm or 4mm heavy gold; heavy-to keep the bead from crushing when pulling the thread tight. (Pictured below.) I match the gold color tone with the clasp. Adding this bead lengthens the strand just a bit, but I believe it adds a touch of "class" to the clasp and keeps what can be a "messy-string in-string out" look from being next to that first pearl. This is my preference with higher value pearls, but I do understand why others would prefer PEARLS ONLY, no beads. Again, it's a matter of preference.
On some strands, especially when using #1 or #0 thread, I will even put a small knot at the gimp before running the thread back into the pearl to keep the gimp cinched tight where it enters that first pearl. I don't do this often, but have used this technique before.
I applaud your efforts and questions. Have fun stringing! There are MANY people to learn from on this site, with hundreds of hours of experience stringing pearls.

18K gold clasp with diamonds, 18K heavy gold beads, 18K Gold/Diamond "B" charm.

 

[ifutzwithfire]

I understand your thinking, as I felt the same way in the beginning of my pearling journey; if using 14k OR 18k beads/clasps why not use the same in gimp. Protecting the silk against the jump ring or clasp is the reason for gimp. 14K or 18K gimp could technically be made into gimp but with the softness of gold, and the expense, it is just not readily available or perhaps even considered necessary. After all, gold is reaching almost $2,400 per ounce!

In looking at your stringing photo, good job! You did really well. It does look like your gimp might be a bit too long and too wide for the thread/pearl size. I try to always use the smallest gimp that will work with the thread. My preferred size for .7 drilled pearls is .6 gimp and #2 silk/thread. Others might think differently. In older strands where they utilize wire wrapped gimp, that wire could be adjusted to the thread size more accurately, and the amount needed was less because wire wrapped gimp "overlaps itself" and covers the thread using less in length. Pre-packaged gimp is basically a "coil" so it bends easily, but can pull apart at the jump ring if the strand is pulled hard enough. The hand-woven gimp typically does not do this, but can have a messier appearance than the coil variety. As in anything jewelry making, it is a personal preference. As you develop you own style of stringing you will decide what looks best and works best for you.
I struggled with how the gimp looked/worked on several of my high dollar projects so I started using 14K or 18K smaller beads right next to the first pearl so that part of the coiled gimp could go into/through the bead and the other side could cinch right up to that gold bead (instead of the pearl) with minimal gimp showing at the jump ring. Typically I use a 2mm, 3mm or 4mm heavy gold; heavy-to keep the bead from crushing when pulling the thread tight. (Pictured below.) I match the gold color tone with the clasp. Adding this bead lengthens the strand just a bit, but I believe it adds a touch of "class" to the clasp and keeps what can be a "messy-string in-string out" look from being next to that first pearl. This is my preference with higher value pearls, but I do understand why others would prefer PEARLS ONLY, no beads. Again, it's a matter of preference.
On some strands, especially when using #1 or #0 thread, I will even put a small knot at the gimp before running the thread back into the pearl to keep the gimp cinched tight where it enters that first pearl. I don't do this often, but have used this technique before.
I applaud your efforts and questions. Have fun stringing! There are MANY people to learn from on this site, with hundreds of hours of experience stringing pearls.
View attachment 468937
18K gold clasp with diamonds, 18K heavy gold beads, 18K Gold/Diamond "B" charm.

That makes sense. And hmmmm, you’ve given me an idea with those gold beads at the end. I’ll have to put on the Mad Fabricator goggles and see if I can make it work.