Need advice on stringing material

[claudenancy]

I am so grateful for all I have learned here. I need some suggestions for a necklace that I about to string. I am not at all sure what my best option for stringing material might be.

This is my version of an add a pearl necklace. I have been hoarding special Indonesian gold pearls. Most of these came from a beautiful bracelet that my husband gave my for our 30th anniversary--purchased from C. Ehret. Others also came from her, and most are from the same harvest that she purchased directly from the farm. I soon realized that I loved the bracelet, but do not wear bracelets well or comfortably. I now want to put all of the pearls together with gold beads. I have just enough now to make a choker but might add more later. I am especially interested in acquiring one special large central pearl to extend the necklace at some point, so restringing might (or might not) be the future of this necklace. Several sources are watching their incoming lots for an appropriate central pearl.

I plan to knot between the pearls, and hope that the gold beads can cover the knot. Do you think I could use powerpro for this necklace, or would you advise staying with silk? I seem to recall that there was some hesitation to use powerpro with the larger SS pearls, but I cannot find the comment.

Any other thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks, Beth

 

[claudenancy]

Here is a photo of the temporary string with a silver Tahitian pearl of the approximate size I would like to add strung as a central "placer" pearl.

 

[barbie biggs]

Very beautiful.

 

[jerin]

Hi Claudenancy,

why should there be a problem with Power Pro? Depending on what lbs you are using I think it is a very good option as the goldbeads won?t cut the line as easy as silk. What size do you have? I think 15 lbs to 20 lbs ought to do the trick! BTW - I love your necklace with golden SS and the small stones, I do not remember what they are - can?t be rubies but could be sapphires, of course! I really would like to have it if I had the money!

 

[BeadersSecret]

yep I reckon the power Pro would be ok too - from a strength & wear perspective.

But I have a concern on the colour of the power Pro - I've only seen it in stark white so the contrast might be a bit much.

 

[knotty panda]

My question would be, what is the purpose of knotting between each pearl and then putting a bead over the knot? Sounds like extra work. Since you mention possibly lengthening it at some later time, Caitlin says fishing line is unforgiving and cutting it apart might be detrimental to the pearls as apparently you have to get in so close to the pearls that you risk damaging them. Why not string it without knotting and making final decision later.

 

[claudenancy]

Thanks Barbie, Jerin, Bernadette and Knotty Panda. Good point about knotting--I was also wondering how that would work with the beads. I was thinking that the beads would cover the knots, but that might not work at all. I think you are right that it would be better not to knot--especially since I may remake it to add pearls. So my options would be Powerpro, silk, or something like softflex if I do not knot.

If my memory is correct the positive points for Powerpro are that it is very strong, less likely to be cut by gold or stone beads, can be knotted (not an issue here), and is relatively stable and less likely to absorb liquids including water and body oils. The cons are that it comes in limited color range (only a problem if I tried to knot and could not cover them with a bead), is unforgiving and difficult to cut without damaging a pearl (primarily a problem, again, if I knotted.)

The benefits of silk are its inherent beauty and color range, its strength combined with softness so it is less likely to damage a pearl, and its traditional use in high end pearl strings. Its problems include the fact that it stretches over time, can absorb liquids, body oils and other such contaminants, may be cut and damaged by sharp or rough places on gold or stone beads, and is more likely to break.

I am not sure about beading wire such as softflex or accuflex with respect to pearl stringing. It is strong, and, especially in its higher qualities (e.g., 49 strand wire), is relatively soft and flexible with a nylon coating. Probably it is the least likely to be cut by gold and stone beads. It cannot be knotted, and possibly is more likely to damage pearls. (I am not sure if this is well established. I need to search more threads.) It is easy to use but comes in limited color ranges, which may not be attractive primarily where the clasp is attached, unless covered or where there might be gaps or spaces or transparent beads through which the wire is visible.

It seems that in this particular case powerpro or beading wire would have the advantages of strength, durability, stability, and ease of use, Disadvantages would primarily pertain to whether or not the material would damage the pearls in this application. I believe that there was information somewhere that there was "pearl dust" evident after pulling apart a temporary pearl string that had been done on beading wire, but I do not remember the specific context.

Has anyone ever taken apart pearls that had been strung on powerpro to see if there was any pearl dust?

I am somewhat uncertain about the use of silk if I string without knots. I assume that this would not be a good idea since silk could easily be damaged by the gold beads and potentially could break.

Thanks again for helping with my thought process. Additional comments are very welcome.

THanks again, Barbie, Jerin, Bernadette, and Knotty Panda. It is so nice to receive assistance from all of you who have obvious expertise.

Jerin, I plan to work on a simplified method for stringing the pearl and sapphire necklace. I have accumulated briolettes in the blue, green, and aqua/teal range. and am plan to acquire five Tahitians with nice overtones in these ranges. At that point I will string a similar necklace in which I simplify the the central area. If you would like more information on how I think that I could simplify the procedure I would be glad to send it to you privately. Also I can share more information about the briolettes and sourcing them. I am confident that you could make this necklace for yourself and realize great savings. If I am successful with the simplified procedure, I will share it with the group.

Thanks again and best regards, Beth

 

[knotty panda]

Wow! Tons of misinformation here in this thread.

why should there be a problem with Power Pro? … I think it is a very good option as the goldbeads won?t cut the line ..

As I look at the design, I see the use of gold beads as spacers. Spacer beads prevent the line from breaking regardless of whether they are metal, gemstone, glass, plastic or some other material.

Having beads which are alike breaks the line. It makes no difference whether it be fishing line, silk, beading wire, raffia, or whatever. You have to reduce the friction between the beads and you do that by using spacers in between like beads. Any bead can be used as a spacer. Knots are spacers.

But I have a concern on the colour of the power Pro - I've only seen it in stark white so the contrast might be a bit much.

As you were covering the knots with beads, you could use whatever color you like. Now that you have decided not to knot, you can still use whatever color you like or is available.

… that it is very strong, less likely to be cut by gold or stone beads …

Again, gold beads used as spacers, are not more likely to cut a beading line than another bead as long as they are not placed side by side. You can even use two gold beads next to each other so long as they are not identical.

I am not sure about beading wire such as softflex or accuflex with respect to pearl stringing. It is strong, and, especially in its higher qualities (e.g., 49 strand wire), is relatively soft and flexible with a nylon coating.

Probably it is the least likely to be cut by gold and stone beads.

Actually, beading wire is more susceptible to friction and more likely to be cut by designs which do not use spacers.

It cannot be knotted

Softflex can be knotted with a figure eight knot.

, and possibly is more likely to damage pearls.

When compared to what? Softflex is not known to damage soft stones such as pearls. I’m not sure of accuflex.

I believe that there was information somewhere that there was "pearl dust" evident after pulling apart a temporary pearl string that had been done on beading wire, but I do not remember the specific context.

Has anyone ever taken apart pearls that had been strung on powerpro to see if there was any pearl dust?

The pearl dust which was discussed was the result of powerpro which was knotted. The knots, acting as spacers, rubbed against the pearls and enlarged the drill holes.

I am somewhat uncertain about the use of silk if I string without knots. I assume that this would not be a good idea since silk could easily be damaged by the gold beads and potentially could break.

It depends on what kind of silk you are using. For this project, I would not use silk thread however, silk cord may be an option. Griffin carded silk with the needle attached is cord, not thread, and while it can be knotted, it is best suited for stringing beads.

I would simply string this design with fishing line and tie the ends to a closed jump ring which is attached to a clasp. I would knot in between the gold beads on the ends -- since they are alike – and that part of the design requires different spacers than you used between the pearls. I’m not sure I would change that method even when you come up with a permanent design. Regardless, I think it will be very pretty.

 

[Sueki]

Hello Beth,
I've cut apart pieces strung on Powerpro with no problems at all.
It was surprisingly easy; I use a very sharp bladed pair of nippers.

 

[Hanaleimom]

Hello Beth,
I've cut apart pieces strung on Powerpro with no problems at all.
It was surprisingly easy; I use a very sharp bladed pair of nippers.

Whoo hoo! That's peace of mind when one wants to break apart a strand if one wants to change the design. Just because Power Pro lasts longer than silk does not mean I don't want to change my design a year or two from now. I don't want to damage the pearls when I cut them apart either. Thanks, Sueki.

 

[Nerida]

I second Sueki's observations - I have cut apart plenty of pieces strung on powerpro (why do customers always want it slightly shorter.slightly longer and I say 'no problem'??) without noticing any pearl dust or other signs of wear on the pearls. I use the little cutters that Caitlin recommends but they do indeed need to be sharp.

 

[Sueki]

(why do customers always want it slightly shorter.slightly longer and I say 'no problem'??)

I'm afraid I'm the world's worst.....
I finish a necklace and then decide it'll look nicer longer....
Or I change my mind about the design half-way through knotting it

And I've not noticed any pearl dust either; except when the pearls are temporarily strung on Beadalon wire; when it comes to making the piece, I notice dust around the drill holes when I take them off of the Beadalon.

 

[claudenancy]

Thanks to all! I was not aware of the problems of placing identical gold beads next to each other. Thanks for the clarification,Knotty Panda. Am I correct in understanding from your comments that this also applies to all gemstone beads so that spacers should be used between all beads that are identical, including gold and gemstone beads?
Also am I understanding correctly that both the nylon coating of the beading wire and the 49 microwires that comprise the wire base of high quality (e.g., "professional quality") beading wire are more likely to be abraded and cut by beads that either powerpro or silk?

Should other factors such as diameter or test strength be taken into account when comparing materials with respect to susceptibility to abrading?

I am confused by one point. One of my beading instructors insisted that metal should never sit directly next to a knot. Has anyone ever heard this? Possibly I misunderstood her.

Would it be better to place spacers between any identical gold beads, especially if the basic stringing material might not be a good color for the design?

I am certainly relieved to learn that the Softflex will not damage pearls. Sueki, do you recall the specifications of the beadalon wire that you used when you observed the dust around the drill holes? I know that it also comes in different diameters and with different numbers of microwires.

I am also glad to know that pieces strung with powerpro can be cut apart if one is very careful and uses the correct tools. Also I am glad to know that silk cord is a viable option. Apparently there are several good choices here.

Thanks again to all of you experienced beaders for taking the time to provide this most useful information.

Regards, Beth

 

[BeadersSecret]

My question would be, what is the purpose of knotting between each pearl and then putting a bead over the knot? Sounds like extra work.

Safety would be just "One" reason for knotting - failure of whatever medium is chosen can occur - and Murphy's law dictates that it should happen at the worst possible time - whatever and whenever that should eventually be.

As you were covering the knots with beads, you could use whatever color you like. Now that you have decided not to knot, you can still use whatever color you like or is available.

This asumption comes unstuck in the end - much like a necklace relying on a single knot to finish with - I always double back when finishing off and reinforce the work - doing so doesnt provide for the spacers to cover the knotting - hence the colour is visible.

Softflex is not known to damage soft stones such as pearls. I?m not sure of accuflex.

I beg to differ - There is a very noticeable difference to the appearance of a string of pearls - corals etc that have been "wired" with these coated cable products to that on thread. It may not be apparent in the short term - or perhaps (arguably) on well cared for pieces. But its a very different story for pieces worn day in day out.

 

[Caitlin]

PowerPro

difficult to cut without damaging a pearl

Caitlin says fishing line is unforgiving and cutting it apart might be detrimental to the pearls as apparently you have to get in so close to the pearls that you risk damaging them.

That is so not true! You don't have to get in any closer to cut between them than for any other knotting medium!

You need scissors that can cut the powerpro, most scissors can't. The ones the powerpro people. steer you to are the Fiskers childrens' scissors. These happen to have thick blades and can't get in between the pearls very well, thus they might damage the pearls. I haven't actually damaged any pearls, so far because...

I use those horseshoe shaped scissors. They readily cut through the Power Pro. They have extremely sharp and small points and are thin enough to slip between pearls, no matter what the thread was. I have done a lot of restringing pearls on powerpro more than once when I was not happy with them and never saw any pearl dust.

My bead board is covered with snips of powerpro.

The reason I found power pro at all was that I had some 15-17mm black CFW pearls I made into a 36' rope strung on silk. It stretched the first time I wore it, leaving huge gaps between the pearls! It was very heavy, as you can imagine.

I spent much time on the net looking at threads. When I found powerpro, I sent off for it from ebay. So Power Pro is for big pearls and heavy beads that would stretch silk and would be good for any rope, because they tend to be heavy too.

I got the 20lb white and 20lb Irish moss. Then I used them. It was like stepping into a new world of stringing, knotting. For me, who has been experimenting with different beading and knotting threads for decades, this was my Eureka moment.

Powerpro really increased the break-resistance.

Other threads like Detulon and polyamide (in both Japanese and Australian versions) are also better than silk for stretching and unlike powerpro, come in a variety of colors.

I like knotting between pearls and putting a bead over it. It's a design choice. I often use the Bali silver version of Carolyn's 22ct gold rondels, over knots. Knots make any necklace much more flexible than straight stringing, as on softflex, does. No knots and the pearls tend to pack down toward the center. I have also used pearl, little bead, pearl, little bead, so there is a knot on either side of the little beads.

The moss green power pro is the one I like for darker pearls. It loks good on Tahitians and purple freshwaters (Don't go near red or yellow powerpro, they are not colorfast)

I have not tried magic markers. This thread reminds me of the fabric of Alec Guiness' white suit in the movie, maybe titled the white suit. I think I will use a purple or a silver magic maker on another experimental pearl bracelet.

Power pro is the most forgiving thread in terms of knots and knotting. The knots are small and tighten easily. and can be moved tight against pearl.

I am trying to think why I used "unforgiving". Maybe it is that it is rougher, less forgiving on the hands, than most threads?

I think it should be the thread of choice for heavy strands and ropes of pearls, or if you want virtual unbreakability.

 

[Nerida]

My bead board is covered with snips of powerpro. - Caitlin


Yes Caitlin, mine too... and I also still knot between the pearls even when I use spacers because I like the added flexibility it gives.. particularly if I am using 13mm or so coin pearls and need a spacer otherwise they don't sit flat.. I still always knot as well.

 

[laurenb]

Another vote for always knotting... better than a strand all over the floor a few years down the line! I use fingernail clippers to disassemble PowerPro (perpendicular pruning for pearl protection ) and a zapper to finish off a strand.

 

[jerin]

Claudenancy and Lauren,

I have just now "redone" a necklace several times, as I am not satisfied with my matching the pearls and no pearl dust at all despite using Power Pro. I use my Lindstr?m cutter and of course one has to be careful as not to harm the surface of the pearls when cutting the line. I also have the children?s scissors that Caitlin has recommended, it cuts the line beutifully but it is too large when cutting up a necklace in my opinion. My cutter is perfect.

I still would recommend that you knot the necklace once you are clear about the length and so on, with 15 lbs for example, the knots are so small, you wouldn?t notice the colour at all, as they are so dainty and then you could put the beads over them so you would have double safety regarding break. Power Pro does not absorb water but dries rather fast and so far I have not observed any of my necklaces absorbing body oils. I am a great lover of silk but I am even more a beliver in stringing material that will ensure no breakage is occuring during normal circumstances. The really "weak spot" in every necklace is the clasp and the connecting ring but if you use Power Pro, at least no pearls/beads will be lost if breakage should occur. I also am using the zapper method, the only problem there is if the battery is not strong anymore or outburned tips.

We hope to see your finished necklace and that you inform us about the technique used on it.

 

[Sueki]

Hi Beth,
The Beadalon wire I use is the 7 strand 0.015" or 0.012".
I use it only for temp. stringing when putting designs together, so the pearls are never on it for very long.

 

[claudenancy]

Hi again: I have now three glowing new pearls to add to my necklace. I have decided to use powerpro
I will use the 22k gold beads (as in the temp string,) but will add for smoothness at each end of the bead between the pearl and the bead a small 22k daisy spacer. I an adding the spacers because I have noticed on the temp string that the granulation near the end of the beads are not as smooth as the daisy spacers and could possibly rub against the pearls.

I have noticed some difficulty with flexibility in the temp string (which was done on 49 strand .014 accuflex). I only test drove the temp strand a few times (to mimimize any damage etc.) --it is somewhat heavy as strung and will be heavier with the additional pearls and beads so I think that I need to make several choices that will increase both strength and flexibility.

Any suggestions on

a. which weight should I use--should I double it, and if so should I use a lighter weight than I would use if I did not double it?

b. I cannot decide about specific knotting choices. I understand that the knotting could provide additional flexibility, and I do need to do that if possible.

This design departs from the usual design where only a single small spacer (which could presumably cover a knot) might separate the pearls.

If I want to knot between pearls to add flexibility--how should I do this? Would I try to put the knot next to the pearl and put the spacer over it as might be done in the usual sequence? But then the central bead would be placed next to the daisy spacer covering the knot and another spacer would be strung--should I try to knot under this one too (then the next pearl would be added)?--or should I try to center the knot under the larger gold bead or do two knots under the larger bead--or what?


Maybe I am trying to make this too difficult?

After I resolve these dilemmas I will tackle plans for ending the necklace. Here are some photos of the "temp" with the new pearls shown next to it.



b.