Natural Pearls/which type of xray? Bonhams asked for it

To the average person, they look random and dissimilar which gives rise to suspecting natural origin. However, to a trained eye, these appear to be the graded to the same luster, color and shape. If this stand were natural, grading around those three points would make for stunning, valuable strand.

This is not that strand. The first problem is pearl length. These are drilled on the narrowest plane which suggests mass production. The pearls are drilled for speed and efficiency and volume. Drilling lengthwise is a slower, tedious process and risks shattering pearls. A natural strand will usually have pearls drilled by length and will be graded and regraded time and time again until it has the perfect match suited for their visual effect. This strand looks like someone had a bag of pearls and a string, placing the next pearl without much thought.

The absence of a bead does not mean they have no nucleus. All pearls have a nucleus, but some natural pearls have no visible nucleus (albeit microscopic). Grafted tissue in cultured pearls always leaves a signature. A signature that is nearly identical to the rest of the pearls in the lot. Natural pearls will have markedly different nuclei. For that reason, I'd examine candled views, but be forewarned that drilled pearls are destroyed pearls from a scientific standpoint because much of the nuclear material is missing.

Freshwater pearls are graded into lots and sold by the sack. These are potato pearls. As far as potato pearls go, they are nice potato pearls. They were high graded to avoid circular ridges and other shape imperfections seen on other potato grades, but there are visible lines in the nacre itself. Any "circling" is typical of fast growth from cultural techniques. Circling observed in single natural pearls usually imply two or more nuclei are present.

lemanmls, I appreciate your concerns and accept your provenance at face value. However, the reputation of a pearl dealer does not suggest origin unless you have irrefutable evidence they were sourced from a natural pearler. Neither does age. Pearl culture has been going on for more than a century. Likewise, these do not look like fakes or anything other than what they were intended to be. Sometimes unscrupulous dealers will make intentional mismatches to give the appearance of being natural, but this strand does not present this way.

I use a scoring system to determine whether a strand should go top the lab or not. I apply a potential score of 10. Although not a firm standard, a score of 5 would merit a trip to the lab based upon a balanced speculation. These scored low. Giving this strand all benefit of doubt, it's 9 to 1 cultural origin. Of course, you may challenge my opinion by sending it to a lab, but please realize you may diminish their current value to near zero.

Natural vs CFWP

Luster ---------- 0.5 - 0.5 Consistent with either.
Shape ---------- 0.0 - 1.0 Graded match more common in CFWP.
Inclusions ----- 0.0 - 1.0 No visible inclusions other than circular growth fronts.
Matching ------ 0.0 - 1.0 Equal matches are possible, but drilling more consistent with mass production.
Structure ------ 0.5 - 0.5 Known to be terraced aragonite, consistent with either.
Size ------------ 0.0 - 1.0 Consistent with either but matched grade suggests cultural origin.
Color ----------- 0.0 - 1.0 Uniform and consistent with CFWP.
Translucency -- 0.0 - 1.0 Uniform and consistent with CFWP.
Onset----------- 0.0 - 1.0 100% perisostracial growth, consistent with CFWP.
Nuclear -------- 0.0 - 1.0 More uniform than not. No shell beads present.

Natural - 1
CFWP - 9

This is a very nice strand. It's a very good example of something I expect we'll see more of in the future. A classic production version of an early, quality strand from China.

Thank you for sharing it with us.
 
Was on the phone with mum today. Mon Dieu!!! I had to hang up three times. She is willing to send all her jewellery she bought from the jewellery maker to gem lab. I should not have been involved in this. I big time regret. However, everything for a reason. I started to educate myself more on this subject and planning to take a specilization course for appraisal especially in antique jewellery in Germany . I am from fashion, have quite knowledge about costume history but definitely fond of antique & jewellery . Meantime, here are the x-rays. It was for this institute 1st time they had a jewellery in their lab taken x-ray
 
They wrote down that it is the first time they x-rayed a jewellery and they usually deal with metals and do not have knowledge on this subject. They said they can tomography them or micro spectroscopy. They will send me pictures from the lab to my phone and I am quite curious about it.
 
lemanmls - It may just be me but I do not see any X-ray images? Please try adding them again. Thank you.
 
Sorry everyone. I realized that they are in tiff . I converted them to jpg now. They also included that they gave different effects via filtration.
 
I2S(1)+Special 4.jpg I2S(1)-2.jpgI2S(1)-3.jpg
 
I'm so sorry for your mum lemanmls. I would be very mad too if I were to find out that a family heirloom was not what it was sold for. It must feel to her like a huge betrayal of her family.
At least, she does not have to pay $2000 to find out the bad news that the necklace is not natural., but it's probably a big disappointment anyway.

Thank you for sharing the pictures. For me, seeing the "graft" signature is fascinating but wished the pearls were natural.
It's great that you are planning to take a class in appraisal, all the best to you.
 
I'm so sorry to hear the pearls ended up not being natural, but what an educational experience for everyone! The X-rays were especially good materials to view as you can clearly see the grafts, which I always have a difficult time seeing in the candling photos. Thank you sharing!
 
Was on the phone with mum today. Mon Dieu!!! I had to hang up three times. She is willing to send all her jewellery she bought from the jewellery maker to gem lab. I should not have been involved in this. I big time regret. However, everything for a reason. I started to educate myself more on this subject and planning to take a specilization course for appraisal especially in antique jewellery in Germany . I am from fashion, have quite knowledge about costume history but definitely fond of antique & jewellery . Meantime, here are the x-rays. It was for this institute 1st time they had a jewellery in their lab taken x-ray

Hi lemanmls,
Don't worry too much. I assume the other pieces of jeweler you your mom bought are other gemstones aside from pearls. The gem testing of diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and the usual precious stones are easily identifiable and won't cost as much as the pearls. The reason natural pearl strands are expensive to test if you would like them actions out is that the auction house requires testing of all pearls in the strand which is understandable.

As for the X-Ray photos, I'm afraid the nucleus patterns are indicative of grafted material. Thanks for keeping us posted. We learned a lot from your thread as well.
 
Thank you for sharing your story. We all wanted it to have a happy ending. I admire your desire to learn more about jewelry and gemstones. I can say from experience that it is very fulfilling.
 
It is possible the jeweler was sold these pearls as naturals and honestly believed that they were naturals themselves. I've read that when the Chinese started culturing non-bead nucleated pearls, that a lot of the pearls were sold to jewelers in the middle east as naturals, and it was only after the sudden influx of so many naturals on the market all of a sudden that suspicion grew.
 
Some of the X-rays are actually very good. As others have said there is no doubt the pearls are beadless/non-bead cultured pearls of likely freshwater origin. Everything points to that so your mother will definitely be upset with the news. Looks like the lab has the X-ray equipment to reach conclusions on many types of pearls, they just lack the experience of interpreting the results. Thank you for sharing the results.
 
Some of the X-rays are actually very good. As others have said there is no doubt the pearls are beadless/non-bead cultured pearls of likely freshwater origin. Everything points to that so your mother will definitely be upset with the news. Looks like the lab has the X-ray equipment to reach conclusions on many types of pearls, they just lack the experience of interpreting the results. Thank you for sharing the results.

I agree. The x-rays are great. I hope they get some pearl training so they can expand their offerings. :)
 
Hello Everyone,
Sorry for late reply. Being abroad and quite busy does not have access all the time here. Once, I 'll be back I intend to visit them again this time with other type of precious stones. I also found a lab where they can do tomography. I will have different kind of pearlstomographed. I will have to pass a very difficult exam in September in order to start the training in October. However, books appearantly is meaningless unless I witness all those tests, x-rays, UV s with bare eyes. I intend to work in the atelier of a jewellery maker for 3 months. I thank you all for your kind assistance until now and will send you some tomography of various pearls soon. Have a great week
 
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