Natural pearls in Cartier jewelry
- Thread starter Isi
- Start date
kiwipaul
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- May 21, 2013
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Hi Isi, may I ask your help in identifying what I believe to be an Antique French Turquoise and Diamond Trinity Wedding Ring?
I've never seen a ring like this before in New Zealand, or on the web, however I believe it is French because it is stamped on the OUTSIDE of the band.
The marks did not come out in my photo, but they are a tiny eagle's head and what I think is a model or inventory number: 8262
I have seen this sort of 4 digit number before on Cartier pieces, but I am not suggesting this ring is by Cartier.
It tests as 18k gold, I have not tested the tiny stones in the middle band, but presume they are diamonds, they are not brilliant cut, but look like Old European Cut to me.
What is very unusual to me is the way the three bands are joined together underneath. I have never seen this before.
An interesting aspect of the design is that the "Trinity" is repeated on each band, which has a trinity of stones.
Can you tell me any more about such a ring, maybe what period it is from, and is this old ring rare or common in France?
I am guessing late C19th, but only guessing. If this was English Victorian the meaning in the language of gemstones would be something like "always thinking of you".
Turquoise = Forget-me-not/Remembrance, joined together by diamonds = Constancy/Eternity
I've never seen a ring like this before in New Zealand, or on the web, however I believe it is French because it is stamped on the OUTSIDE of the band.
The marks did not come out in my photo, but they are a tiny eagle's head and what I think is a model or inventory number: 8262
I have seen this sort of 4 digit number before on Cartier pieces, but I am not suggesting this ring is by Cartier.
It tests as 18k gold, I have not tested the tiny stones in the middle band, but presume they are diamonds, they are not brilliant cut, but look like Old European Cut to me.
What is very unusual to me is the way the three bands are joined together underneath. I have never seen this before.
An interesting aspect of the design is that the "Trinity" is repeated on each band, which has a trinity of stones.
Can you tell me any more about such a ring, maybe what period it is from, and is this old ring rare or common in France?
I am guessing late C19th, but only guessing. If this was English Victorian the meaning in the language of gemstones would be something like "always thinking of you".
Turquoise = Forget-me-not/Remembrance, joined together by diamonds = Constancy/Eternity
Last edited:
CLICLASP
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- Apr 23, 2006
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- 1,208
Thank you Isi for that tour, as a Parisian I am planning to visit the expo, and if this is still allowed to take photos, I will do some more and post them
so that Pearl Guide will still be the place for recording outstanding pearls photos.
so that Pearl Guide will still be the place for recording outstanding pearls photos.
Hi Paul, a pretty and charming ring you have here. I am afraid I will not be able to help you much. The eagle's head means for sure that the ring went through the french hallmark services (in France the customs are in charge of applying and controling the hallmarks) and that the ring is 18 kt. It doesn't mean that the ring was made in France, it may have been imported. Actually my parents brought me back from Turkey, a long time ago, a silver multi-ring with small turquoises, a bit like yours, there were seven rings joined together at the base. But yours of course is much more refined and elegant, and could very well be european.
The ring is old for sure, because the turquoises turning green is a sure sign of aging for this stone, but I am unable to put a date on it. I would say it is more vintage than antique.
When a jewel is made in France normally you have a second stamp - we call it the "master's hallmark" with a small design as a symbol of the jeweler's identity. If you cannot find this second stamp, either it has been erased by time, or it was made in a foreign country, for exportation, with only a model number.
Other than that I cannot tell you more, I would run the risk of being very mistaken.
The ring is old for sure, because the turquoises turning green is a sure sign of aging for this stone, but I am unable to put a date on it. I would say it is more vintage than antique.
When a jewel is made in France normally you have a second stamp - we call it the "master's hallmark" with a small design as a symbol of the jeweler's identity. If you cannot find this second stamp, either it has been erased by time, or it was made in a foreign country, for exportation, with only a model number.
Other than that I cannot tell you more, I would run the risk of being very mistaken.
Hi Anna, everything about taking photos is explained at the entrance of the exhibition. Photos are allowed everywhere except for some very old and fragile items (of cloth and fabric mainly) which are clearly labeled as such. I hope you will take better pictures than me and will complete beautifully this tour !
MSC
Natural Pearl Lover
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- Oct 11, 2012
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- 2,861
Hi Paul,
I've seen a lot of those rings referred to as harem style. I've seen a lot in UK listings, but I think they were pretty common throughout Europe. I'm going to look through one of my books to see if there's anything about geographical occurrence. The style of yours speaks to be of typical UK Victorian jewelry, with those little claw set turquoise cabs which were so commonly used then. Also if you haven't visited this site yet, it's has a great amount of antique jewelry reference material: http://www.langantiques.com/university/index.php/Category:Victorian_Jewelry
I've seen a lot of those rings referred to as harem style. I've seen a lot in UK listings, but I think they were pretty common throughout Europe. I'm going to look through one of my books to see if there's anything about geographical occurrence. The style of yours speaks to be of typical UK Victorian jewelry, with those little claw set turquoise cabs which were so commonly used then. Also if you haven't visited this site yet, it's has a great amount of antique jewelry reference material: http://www.langantiques.com/university/index.php/Category:Victorian_Jewelry
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MSC
Natural Pearl Lover
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2012
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- 2,861
This article came up in my facebook feed today: http://www.wallpaper.com/fashion/cartier-bejewels-paris-grand-palais-in-a-new-exhibition/7042#91748
nice slide show of the exhibit!
nice slide show of the exhibit!
