Natural or Not Natural - Opinions Needed!

[MSC]

I picked up this stick pin recently, mainly because I couldn't tell if the pearl was natural or not. I wanted a closer look at it and since the seller has a 14 day return policy, I figured why not? I had a hard time candling it, but I managed to get a few decent photos. Dave, you opinion here is especially wanted! If this pearl is not a natural, it's going back ASAP. I really cannot tell myself, even with the candling, I'm at a total loss.

 

[dmj]

style wise its looks as what the seller describer it pearl is 9mm long so also not to big or anything so should be alright

 

[kiwipaul]

Hi Andrea, looks kosher to me, stylistically it has to be Victorian / Edwardian don't you think?

If those are diamond chips is the silver colored cap made of silver, white gold or platinum?

I would guess silver over gold maybe, which was the Victorian way of setting diamonds.

Question then is whether it is a sea pearl or fresh water, it is so regular I'm thinking sea pearl.

Neat thing about it is the pearl is on a loop, making it easy to convert the pearl drop into something else.

 

[MSC]

It does look like authentic Victorian to me as well, which is what attracted me to the piece, but I know that pearls get replaced sometimes. Certainly with a cap setting, it would be very easy to change out the pearl. The setting also appears to me to be silver topped gold and the chips are nice rose cuts. I just wanted to get some confirmation that it was natural or not. Not to be a pearl snob, but I prefer to collect naturals. The size of the pearl isn't very big, 9mmx4mm and a nice shape, but even so I'm wary. What I can't make sense of in the candling photos is the non-translucent area of the pearl near the cap. Could that be a bead or implant of some sort? Also, this would be the first natural black pearl in my collection, so I don't have much handling experience with natural blacks and therefore don't have a well developed eye. Plus it's in my scientist self to be skeptical about these things.

You and I think a lot alike, Paul! I was looking to use the drop in another design potentially. Then maybe form the stick pin into a ring and add a pearl to the loop and get 2 new pieces out of it.

 

[kiwipaul]

Didn't realise it was black, looks silvery in the pics, so as it is black then could it be a Sea of Cortez pearl?

One thing I've learned looking as Dawn's and other people's collections is that stick pins can have some fabulous novelties on them.

It has more or less died out now, but back in the day men could show off their latest curiosity on things like stick pins and fobs.

In Victorian times all sorts of weird and wonderful things were arriving from the far flung parts of the globe, I think you've scored a beauty!

 

[Lagoon Island Pearls]

Interesting pearl.

It's rich in conchiolin and the candled views show dark patches in different layers.

I don't see evidence of a bead (or shaped nucleus) and no flat spots, hence appearing saltwater in origin.

There is a marked subsurface occlusion at one end of the pearl.

Assuming the period is correct, it's reasonable to assume this pearl is natural. Naturals can be any color from any species from anywhere in the world, but that particular shade of silver gray resembles shells of pterioida. Likely atrina or pinna (pen). To a lesser degree, modiolus (which are mytilidae) aka horse mussel.

 

[MSC]

In the photos it does come up quite silvery, but in person there is a black pearl quality about it. Good call on Sea of Cortez, it does have a similar look.

I love Victorian fobs just for the reasons you mentioned, Paul! Stick pins as well, but all the ones I've found that I liked in the past were always above my price range. I've always found the Victorian taxidermy jewelry to be both appalling and appealing. In one respect, as someone who studies wild animals I see the value in taxidermy, but I also know that back in those times many species were hunted to extinction just for fashion. There's an ethical conundrum there. I've always wanted a pair of those hummingbird bust pieces (see: http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/earr...an-taxidermy-hummingbird-earrings/id-j_74289/).

Anyways, I can't wait to hear Dave's take on the candling photos!

 

[GemGeek]

It looks natural to me and original to the jewelry. Dave is right that it could be from almost anything, but it could be pteria penguin. What a cool piece - you should keep it.

Paul, I agree about the stick pins having an abundant variety of cool jewels.

 

[MSC]

I must have taken too long to write my post, I didn't see Dave's till just now!

Dave, is the occlusion you are talking about at the end of the pearl near the cap? That part was not translucent to light now matter what angle I tried.

Thank you for the species recommendations, it's a good starting point for furthering my education! Coincidentally, I was at this used book store last night and found a used copy of "Black pearls of Tahiti" by Dr. Jean-Paul Lintilhac, which is mainly about the pearl culturing industry there. It's a bit old, from the mid 80s, but there are some really nice detailed photos of the culturing process. I'm looking forward to reading this one!

I think this pin will be a keeper. Not sure what exactly I'll do with it just yet, but in the meantime it's going into the safe!

 

[FrenchPearl]

Great find andrea !
Could this one be the drop for your long term project with the conch pearls ?
Not exactly the shape you had in mind but close enough... In any case, this pearl is very beautiful. Congrats !

 

[MSC]

Thanks, Sophie! I was initially thinking of just that, but I don't think I'm going to go that way after seeing it in person; I think it will be better suited for something else

 

[MSC]

I found a great photo on Pearl Collectors website that shows a highly similar silver coloring (the one to the far right).

 

[dmj]

there a around 5 off that shape pearl on ebay now but all other colors this one looks also ok

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291050327671?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

[MSC]

Nice find, Daniel!

 

[kiwipaul]

Wow Daniel that fly brooch is so cool, another great example of the Victorian's love of the unusual and sheer exuberance in the jewelry they wore.

 

[dmj]

i always have a whole list of these kind of things, personally i really like work from around 1900 the earlier victorian era can be also quiet nice but still today nobody beats the masters like lalique, foguet etc

a while ago we had a person from holland asking about a auction with a melo pearl in there and one lot after the melo pearl was a amazing necklace by foguet that everybody missed so i was all stoked but the day before the auction the auction house pulled it back ( so somebody did know ) always hope for moments like this i have quite a lot of nice things but sometimes you can get amazingly lucky with knowing what to buy now just hoping for a new chance of buying a 1900 s master piece

there is enough out there !

 

[MSC]

I remember seeing that thread and that Foquet! Lalique happens to be my fave as well. Dreams

 

[dmj]

its funny when you only go back 5 years that you could still buy them in auction quite normal sometimes under 10k and now they go 50k plus :S

but yeah the fouguet would have been quite something im still pissed that the lastttt auction day it got pulled out also the melo was more interesting then we thought i never post this right before a auction because it makes no sence creating bidders against myself ( i only do this with pieces like this where a potential bidder can cost thousands extra ) but the pearl was auctioned some years before as the first melo in auction somewhere in geneva and had a price of 5 times what the dutch auction house wanted butttttt it got pulled back

new ones will come and where there to catch them !

 

[dmj]

for the people who think fo who ?

 

[MSC]

my favorite part of that necklace is the pearl on the bottom, I love the way it's set into a claw-like cap.