Mystery graduated pearl necklace

Joined
Feb 16, 2025
Messages
17
Hello all!

I have another mystery to solve! I just purchased this necklace from Goodwill for not much money. I loved the graduated design, and high lustre on the pearls. The smallest ones are barely 1mm, and the largest about 3mm x 5mm. The necklace is 18.5" in total length. They are an off-white with pink, blue, and golden orient. Shapes include flat, oblong, baroque, round, and disc. The clasp is not real gold, and has no markings. Part of the mystery is that I don't believe the necklace started life with the current clasp. It is attached to the strands with open jump rings that are twisted and bent. Also, the strands are all the same length, which means that they don't lay properly tiered like a triple stand necklace should. It just jumbles together! I plan on restringing them so this doesn't happen. The first crop of photos is in artificial light, and the second in natural light. I gave them a quick clean, but only after I took the natural light photos, so pardon the grime! I would love to know any opinions on place of origin, age, and if my hunch about the clasp might be correct! Thank you for all your help!
Pat
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To me they look like older Chinese freshwater pearls-- 1980s- early '90s or so.
Perhaps the pearls were originally strung differently, and the previous owner made them into a 3 strand necklace with the current clasp.
I'm excited to restring them! I just have to fine a suitable clasp to replace this one. Thanks for your help!
 
My first thought was early Chinese freshwater pearls from the 1980's or 90's because of the potato and flat button shapes. The pearls are 100% nacre.

Torsades were very popular back then. Several strands, all the same length, would be twisted and then the clasp would be closed. So when worn, the length of the necklace would get shorter, to maybe 16 inches when worn twisted.
 
My first thought was early Chinese freshwater pearls from the 1980's or 90's because of the potato and flat button shapes. The pearls are 100% nacre.

Torsades were very popular back then. Several strands, all the same length, would be twisted and then the clasp would be closed. So when worn, the length of the necklace would get shorter, to maybe 16 inches when worn twisted.
I thought it might be worn like a torsade, and I tried twisting it but it looked so clunky with the graduation as extreme as it is. It also felt too fragile at the ends. Maybe it was what they were going for, but i fear it wasn't successful.
 
O of O, definitely a mystery! Thank you for the excellent photos. I agree with PD and BWeaves, most likely early Chinese fw pearls, still, wouldn't totally rule out naturals. With a bath and restring, they will be even more beautiful! Please show us your redesign!
Thanks Pattye, I certainly will! If anything, they might read as naturals from a distance, which is fine and dandy. Thank you for your thoughts!
 
I remembered that I have this double strand I bought years ago with very similar funky little pearls! I dont wear it because the shoter of the two strands is only 15" long, which is a tight choker on me. Perhaps it was for a young lady, or even a child? It was absolutely filthy when I bought it, and even after several cleanings it's still a bit grimey. My plan is to harvest some of these to lengthen the triple strand when I restring it. BUT! Before I do, what do you make of it? Has anyone seen something similar? What would I call this shape of pearl if I was to try and source more? They're somewhere between rice pearls and seed pearls by my knowledge. Also, does anyone recognize the signature on the clasp? For the life of me I can't make it out! Thanks for all your help detectives!
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Possibly women were smaller back then and choker style necklaces were more popular? Wish I knew more about the vintage and antique pearl jewelry. I did find this info about the 800 on the clasp.

".800 Silver​

.800 silver is an alloy of silver that is 800 parts silver and 200 parts other metals. It is also referred to as International Coin Silver. This alloy was common in the 19th and early 20th centuries on the European mainland but was not used in jewelry in the United States."

I'm not able to make out the writing on the clasp either.
 
Possibly women were smaller back then and choker style necklaces were more popular? Wish I knew more about the vintage and antique pearl jewelry. I did find this info about the 800 on the clasp.

".800 Silver​

.800 silver is an alloy of silver that is 800 parts silver and 200 parts other metals. It is also referred to as International Coin Silver. This alloy was common in the 19th and early 20th centuries on the European mainland but was not used in jewelry in the United States."

I'm not able to make out the writing on the clasp either.
Well at least one mystery is solved -they came from across the pond! Thanks Pattye!
 
The pearls are a good match to your 3 strand necklace. The marks are probably the maker of the silver clasp, and not the maker of the necklace.

High, tight chokers were popular in late Victorian and Edwardian USA and England. They were popular in the 1950s in the USA and abroad. And in the 1980s when Princess Diana brought the style back.
 
The pearls are a good match to your 3 strand necklace. The marks are probably the maker of the silver clasp, and not the maker of the necklace.

High, tight chokers were popular in late Victorian and Edwardian USA and England. They were popular in the 1950s in the USA and abroad. And in the 1980s when Princess Diana brought the style back.
I actually love the look of a choker, but this one actually chokes me! I think I'll turn it into a single strand choker that fits with the remaining pearls. I'm looking forward to dismantling it so I can really give them a good clean!
 
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