My Natural Pearl Collection

That last pile of pearls is an absolute tour de force! Desktop background-worthy.


\Let's be sure to give this awesome thread 5 stars, to keep it from being buried~I'll be revisiting it again and again!
I'll add my vote and put this as a sticky.

Could those earring be Oaxacan? They are similar in style to many I have seen, with the scrolls and the piles of pearls. Dawn has a gusano oaxacan earring set on her ebay page. Even if they aren't; it is an interesting comparison. I adore those Oaxacan earrings old and new.
 
Caitlin, I hadn't thought of Oaxacan, but now that you mention it... Could be Oaxacan influenced? Without hallmarks, it's hard to say, but I can see the style influence though they don't have as much filigree work as the examples I've around the webs and in person.
 
I am no expert, but I like Oaxacan style earrings. I remember the old ones from my youth, my mom had some and so did a lot of people I knew. But there are still a lot of new ones being made. That pair could easily be someone's riff on Oaxacan earrings, or something entirely different. Guessing is fun and I never mind being wrong, either...
 
I'm waiting for Dawn to come on and confirm whether or not they are basra pearls. I'd take a pair of Oaxacan earring, you know for research purposes :rolleyes:
 
Dawn and I have had email exchanges about that. Those earrings, and the other jewelry in that style, were made in the 20's through the 40's in Oaxaca. There had been some kind of pearl farm going on at some point that harvested farmed, natural pearls, but it is unknown whether it ever supplied pearls for the Oaxacan jewelry. However, the crowd that wore those revival Oaxacan earrings from that era were the upper classes and intelligentsia that wore ethnic jewelry -after Frida's circles embraced the ethnic look as did their American and European associates. The jewelers were perfectly aware of how to get those low grade pinctada radiata pearls from the Persian Gulf, even though neither Dawn nor I have seen any sales receipts or anything like that kind of proof.

Is is known that the Spaniards brought Moorish filagree work to the New World and the master gold and siver smiths of Mexico learned it as they chose. Therefore it is not really indigenous, and was always primarily worn by Mestizos and Spaniards. Oaxacan metal smiths in particular specialized in the filagree and the jewelry and other products were often gifted on special occasions, like coming of age and marriage. Marriage was especially associated with wearing all one's white pearls and this was an entirely Euro association. Senoritas could wear white pearls; the earrings given before marriage continued to be worn after marriage, too. I think there was at least one family from India, who sold pearls in Mexico City for the upper class, and maybe, one in Monterrey, too. Those small irregular pearls have always been at the bottom end and by far the most plentiful of all Persian Gulf pearls. Oaxacan style jewelry was/is a brilliant use of them.
 
So, if that old, it could have been worn by the pre-revolution grandees in the Victorian age and -most 20th century Oaxacan pearl filagree is a revival of pieces like that. That is the correct history of such pieces, even though that particular piece may not belong to the history I gave.
 
Caitlin, thank you for including all of that history! I love learning about the history of the industries and how styles spread to different areas over time and why. It's fascinating! Where did you find all of this information, any particular book sources (not like I need any more books)?

I was just coming back on here to include this link: http://www.rubylane.com/item/403702-JY_Ear_sdprl1/18th-C-Italian-Gold-Filigree
Those earrings are much more similar to mine. I am going to contact the shop owner to try to get some information as to how they came up with Italian for the provenance.
 
Wow, eerie how close those earrings are to yours! Detective work in progress - love it. :)
 
Victorian Basra (?) Pearl Floraform Earrings
Pearls (Basra?), 42 in each earring, ranging from 1mmx1.5mm to 3.5mmx4mm
Unmarked, but appear to be at least 14kt if not more.
The earring length is 1.5 inches and 14mm wide, the earrings are front closing.
These are my favorite of the pearl earrings!

The detail work on these earrings are incredible and the pearls are just so pretty!!! Together they make for an amazing pair of earrings!
 
Hi Andrea and Caitlin,

They do have the style of Oaxacan earrings and there is no doubt that they are Arabian Gulf pearls. Beautiful earrings. I have some away that need a couple of pearls replaced. Must get to it and list them. They are beautiful too. Not the same but sort of.

Love, love your bracelet. So very beautiful. Would go well with your gorgeous necklace. Is it comfortable to wear? Doesn't really look like it would be but who cares. Same as wearing shoes when young that are not really comfortable for the style. :) Do you wear it often or just drool over it :)

You do have some very special pieces.

Dawn - Bodecia
http://www.ebay.com/sch/dawncee333/m.html
eBay Seller ID dawncee333 Natural pearl collector & seller. And all round pearl lover.
 
Hi again, just remembered you gave the URL to so called Mississippi pearls but just because that seller called them that doesn't necessarily make it so. An expert on Mississippi pearls is needed for that. The only ones that shape I have seen have all been set in silver and often silver of a low grade or ones that I suspect are carved MOP and then sometimes set in base metal with a gold tone. I just don't have clue as to what they really are.

Thanks for the URL. Very good sleuthing!!

Dawn - Bodecia
http://www.ebay.com/sch/dawncee333/m.html
eBay Seller ID dawncee333 Natural pearl collector & seller. And all round pearl lover.
 
True that, Dawn! A Mississippi pearl expert would be able to slueth that one out, wouldn't they? Let's get one! I just happened to see that bracelet and that they called them Mississippi pearls and thought it was interesting since I have never seen those types of pearls called Mississippi pearls before. And I knew it would intrigue you as well ;)

So glad to hear you think the earring pearls are Arabian Gulf pearls! I've been looking at the strands of Arabians you have on sale in your ebay store to compare and thought I had started to get the eye, as it were. Yay for confirmation! I can't wait to see your earrings once you get them repaired (or you know, you could always post before pics here too).
Ha, that bracelet is pretty comfortable to wear as long as I don't need to do much while wearing it :rolleyes: especially computer work, they do not mix! So mostly I drool a lot at it and wear it infrequently. Someday when I'm oh so rich (hahahaha) I would love to have a museum type display made for my collection, but that would require owning a house and an awesome security system, etc. Dreams :eek:

Earrings update: I received an email response from the seller of the earrings that looked like mine and she now believes that they are from Malta! I have asked if I could quote her response here in the forum, so I won't say more till I get approval. Anyways, more research to be done!
 
Caitlin, thank you for including all of that history! I love learning about the history of the industries and how styles spread to different areas over time and why. It's fascinating! Where did you find all of this information, any particular book sources (not like I need any more books)?

I was just coming back on here to include this link: http://www.rubylane.com/item/403702-JY_Ear_sdprl1/18th-C-Italian-Gold-Filigree
Those earrings are much more similar to mine. I am going to contact the shop owner to try to get some information as to how they came up with Italian for the provenance.

There is a lot of Italian filagree and Spanish. Probably all three influenced by the Moorish techniques and that style was a Euro favorite in Italy, Spain and Oaxaca -whose ruling class was up on the latest Euro fashions. the revival that resulted in the spate of earring from the 1920's-50' was about bringing back that style as an kind of Mexican Mestizo revival thing, not a particularly ethnic Indian thing.

I should change my profile to reflect this. My academic background is anthropology, my specialty, people and dogs from their beginnings in the Pleistocene to the present, with a sub-specialty in Mexico and the southwest as the geographic area I am from. I lived in Guanajuato in 1957, where I turned 16 and due to the family I lived with, had a traditional experience of being 15 in Mexico in 1957, which is when I first saw the Oaxacan earrings,owned by my dance teacher/mentor and many others in the upper classes. Hubby, Kether (elder daughter who comes to ruckuses, etc) and I lived in Mexico, mostly Oaxaca, in 1970 and I never got over it. I took a rudimentary course in the classic Nahuatl language of the old Aztecs, who presumably arrived from Arizona or Utah to take over down south in order to understand the Nahuatl origins of the names of the local dogs. But, whoops, don't get me started on that! (I am turning my dog blog into a website which is not ready yet, because I can't settle on a theme that does what i want it to do.)
 
Art Nouveau/Arts and Crafts Emerald Pearl Earrings
No hallmarks, so potentially 14-15kt gold, my guess is English for country of production. The earwires may not be original, they look to be a lower gold karat.
Pearls: white colored, 4mmx5mmx3mm, 4.5mmx3.5mmx4mm
Emeralds: light green tumbled stones in wire cages, 11mmx10mmx8.4mm, 13mm8.5mmx10mm
Earring length is 37mm including the earwire.
 

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Yes. I particularly think it could be Malta as that was in the same circuit of which we have been speaking. It is such a classic style, maybe we can find a lot more examples, because it does have a different touch than the 20th century revivalist styles- which also came in silver- unheard of in the 18th century. Compared to the one under consideration here, the workmanship in the usual 20th century Oaxacan was much more middle class than the exquisite 18th century ones. It was still expert workmanship, though.
 
Caitlin, that you're an anthropologist explains so much about why you know so much about the history of the industry! I have been looking at Malta's style of filigree and it is very similar to the filigree work in my earrings. I don't think mine are from the 18th c. as the pair that I found are, but they could indeed be Victorian and part of the revivalist period in the mid 1800s. I am waiting to hear back from the shop owner after sending some photos for an opinion. Will update :)

I also ran across this brooch today on Rubylane that has the same leaf and vine motif/design as my one pendant, no maker was identified in this piece either: http://www.rubylane.com/item/494298-250-00002/Arts-Crafts-14K-Gold-18
 
Last one (well, maybe)!
Edwardian Mississippi River Pearl Pendant
"dog tooth" shape, white colored, 11.5mmx9.25mmx7mm
Pendant length is 1 inch, no hallmarks
 

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Victorian Basra (?) Pearl Floraform Earrings
Pearls (Basra?), 42 in each earring, ranging from 1mmx1.5mm to 3.5mmx4mm
Unmarked, but appear to be at least 14kt if not more.
The earring length is 1.5 inches and 14mm wide, the earrings are front closing.
These are my favorite of the pearl earrings!

Update: I found a link to an exhibition on the jewelry of Malta that look place this past March, so I emailed to ask what the exhibition expert thought of my earrings. Here is what she had to say in an email reply:
"Dear Andrea,

Thank you for your email, which has been referred to me from Fondazzjoni Patrimonju Malti as I had curated their exhibition on jewellery. The pair of gold filigree and seed pearl earrings are indeed likely to be Maltese. They are certainly of a type that was popular in Malta and probably produced over a long period of time. As regards dating I would tend to think late 19th century/early 20th century. It is of course quite impossible to say for certain without examining the pieces themselves, however if legible marks could be found we would be able to date them with better precision. Marks are generally struck on the more solid bits of the jewellery pieces, such as on the back of the suspension loops or on the side of the hook that goes through the ear.

The catalogue of the exhibition features a number of other jewellery items which bear similarities, particularly in the flower shaped filigree surmount.

I hope that helps.

Kind regards,
Francesca Balzan"

So, it would seem that an expert in Maltese jewelry believes that these are indeed from the area. The time frame she indicates seems right too. No marks on the earrings anywhere, unfortunately, but I'll consider this one solved!
 
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