J.C.O 1925 box of graduated pearl necklace

[MNel]

Thank you for taking the time to help me. I am looking at a J.C.O, 1925 box containing a graduated pearl necklace with "32" stamped on the clasp. The pearls do feel gritty, they graduate from 2.39mm to 6.04mm and the necklace is 17" in length. I need help identifying, grading and approximate value.

 

[Pearl Dreams]

Welcome to Pearl-Guide!

Have you had the stone on the clasp checked out? Or tested the metal?

I have found that very grimy imitation pearls can seem gritty when tested. I suggest you give this strand a bath in some warm filtered/bottled water with a mild soap (not detergent), than after 10-15 minutes of soaking, wipe off the grime with a soft microfiber cloth, then rinse and dry off the pearls with a clean soft dry cloth before re-testing.

If you have a loupe (10x magnifier) look at the surface of the pearls. Genuine nacre will look very smooth at 10x magnification, while imitation pearl coating will look coarser, almost like a citrus peel. You can compare what you see with a known-genuine or known-imitation pearl.

Great photos, by the way!

 

[Pearl Dreams]

By the way, I think they are cultured akoya pearls (see how some of the pearls have become barrel shaped due to being worn a lot) but still you should clean and test them again. However the clasp is really intriguing me.

 

[Camelotshadow]

32 could be .32 ct diamond. It looks rather large though.. I'd check if the diamond was real. They are interesting but you never know if they came in that box! If its white gold then white gold was a bit rare in 1925...Its hard to know exactly when it started to be used but its around that date.

Anyway they could have cultured pearls in 1925. It is said Mikimoto was playing with it since 1916.
Check the drill holes for a nacre line...

Clasp is pretty! Could be platinum as it does not look like early white gold...

 

[MNel]

Thank you. I will definitely try giving the strand a bath and re-test the pearls. The stone on the clasp is a diamond and the metal is platinum.

 

[MNel]

Thank you. The stone on the clasp is a diamond so it could be .32ct, I didn't think to measure it, but it is about that size. I forgot to add the clasp is platinum.

 

[MSC]

Sure, a clasp like that could be placed on a cultured strand. The engraving work on the underside of the clasp is very finely done, I'd be surprised if the stone weren't diamond. Was the tongue of the clasp stamped at all, aside from the 32? The metal looks like platinum to me.
You really should send the stand to GIA to be tested (and the stone in the clasp as well). You could try candling some of the pearls in the strand and posting the photos for folks to weigh in on; I'd do a variety of sizes in the strand. If you search for "candling" the thread should come up.

I have an old strand of pearls from the same time period (1920's) that look very similar to yours, that came with an 18kt white gold and diamond clasp. I haven't gotten mine tested at GIA yet, but a reputable, high end antique jewelry dealer said she suspected the smaller pearls were naturals, for what it's worth. Who knows. Even if they're not natural pearls, it's still a very fine strand worth having appraised and restrung. If you do take them for appraisal, try to find a pearl specialist. Good luck.

 

[Pearl Dreams]

Diamond and platinum... I agree they're worth checking them out further.

 

[MNel]

Thank you. I think it is a beautiful strand. The diamond is real and of very good clarity. There was no other stamp on the tongue or anywhere else on the clasp aside from the 32. My husband said the clasp tested positive for platinum but I will double check myself in the morning. I will definitely consider getting it appraised and restrung.

 

[BWeaves]

I have to say, I love the box. The green color is fantastic, and that swirly interior is wonderful.

The pearls definitely need a good bath and restringing. I think this necklace will really sing after that.

 

[MSC]

It's difficult to tell via photos if the pearls are cultured or natural. I thought on first look they were naturals, but who knows.
Let me add this wrinkle as well:
http://www.karipearls.com/antique-natural-pearl-necklace-marquise-diamond-platinum-clasp.html
Goes to show it's best to get the testing done.
Makes me think I should send mine in...

 

[MNel]

It's difficult to tell via photos if the pearls are cultured or natural. I thought on first look they were naturals, but who knows.
Let me add this wrinkle as well:
http://www.karipearls.com/antique-natural-pearl-necklace-marquise-diamond-platinum-clasp.html
Goes to show it's best to get the testing done.
Makes me think I should send mine in...

Wow...yes think testing would be a good idea

 

[Camelotshadow]

Platinum & huge diamond for a clasp!!! I thought maybe the small could be natural & large cultured. Give it a nice bath soak as everyone says mild soap & dry it well. Check the drill holes...tug if you need to as they should be restrung but have them tested first. At least if you can't see a nacre line. They look quite decent for the age. Clasp sort of reminds me of my old platinum one which is probably 30's 40;s but I am guessing from the pearl folder it came in. Same sort of push clasp but I don;t have that fold over pin closure. That's interesting..

Huge diamond & in a marquise it could be ,32 but it looks big.

My plat clasp is 10% irridium & marked...diamond alas is much smaller. Just checked & looks like my clasp is handmade & the diamond is hard to get to the back & dirty but its hard to clean diamonds on pearl strands.
Mine is cultured & nacre is pretty thick..maybe 1.5mm on the largest 8,2mm pearl.

 

[MNel]

Platinum & huge diamond for a clasp!!! I thought maybe the small could be natural & large cultured. Give it a nice bath soak as everyone says mild soap & dry it well. Check the drill holes...tug if you need to as they should be restrung but have them tested first. At least if you can't see a nacre line. They look quite decent for the age. Clasp sort of reminds me of my old platinum one which is probably 30's 40;s but I am guessing from the pearl folder it came in. Same sort of push clasp but I don;t have that fold over pin closure. That's interesting..

Huge diamond & in a marquise it could be ,32 but it looks big.

My plat clasp is 10% irridium & marked...diamond alas is much smaller
Mine is cultured & nacre is pretty thick..maybe 1.5mm on the largest 8,2mm pearl.

I am eager to get them tested. I didn't initially know it was a fold over pin closure until my daughter looked at it today. It is quite unique.

 

[Camelotshadow]

Check the drill holes. If you see the nacre line then save the $ on testing. Still the clasp is where most of the value is if they are cultured.
Natural who knows...just depends on what someone wants to spend but them they are rare.

Its unusual to have platinum unmarked but it happens. I have a old pair of earring unmarked & still have a pair of yellow pearls in unmarked plat that I am probably sending back if I can unglue myself from them...

 

[Camelotshadow]

That looks like a 8 x 4 mm marquise...measure it...that would be around ,5 ct. It just looks bigger than .32 but maybe its the year?
Not sure if the 1925 could have been the year of start of business...

 

[MNel]

That looks like a 8 x 4 mm marquise...measure it...that would be around ,5 ct. It just looks bigger than .32 but maybe its the year?
Not sure if the 1925 could have been the year of start of business...

Thank you so much for the feedback. I will definitely double check the metal, give the strand a bath, check the the drill holes, and measure the diamond first thing Monday when I get back to work and have access to them.

 

[Camelotshadow]

Guess it will be a long weekend waiting to get back to those pearlies!

 

[amti]

Before reading all the comments, I was in love with the clasp and the workmanship. And Camelot was right on the money! I've seen some pieces with the carat of the diamonds engraved into rings and other pieces of jewelry. It would be great if all pieces were marked like that but unfortunately, they aren't. I'd say the clasp is worth more than the pearls, although the pearls look like they have the potential to be very pretty once cleaned and restrung. I think 1925 is the year the jeweler went into business, and not necessarily the date of the piece.

 

[MNel]

Guess it will be a long weekend waiting to get back to those pearlies!

so true