Golden SS pearls from the 1950-1960s?

olmander

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Nov 28, 2007
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I have a question to the experts in old pearls.
My Spanish lady friend has inherited a couple of pearls from her mother-in-law and is trying to estimate what it is and if it has value if they decide to sell it. The family got rich somewhere around 40-50s through a thriving business, there was a lot of valuable jewelry there, so this is hardly a nep - although one never knows of course.

If with the first strand it was easier (akoya from after the war), with the second one I am a bit confused.
The color in real life looks to me typically like golden SS, but I always thought they started later with cultivated SSs, not in 40-60-s. Or am I wrong?
Also the SS pearls are on average rather big, and these ones are 8-9 mm. I've read yesterday that Indonesia and Philippines already had farms with golden SSs long ago, thought about Phillipinnes and it connections with Spain.

The clasp is very beautiful and sophisticated, with green cabochons (emeralds? maybe not) and tiny seed pearls, so at least the intention was to make it look rich. I also think I saw some tiny blemishes there, although it maybe just damage while wearing.

Olga

DSC_6928.jpg DSC_6929.jpg
 
If you can get a good macro of the stone in the clasp one might be able to tell if its likely an emerald. Of course an ID over the web would be suspect, but sometimes emerald cabs can be rather distinctive.
 
On a general note (not commenting on the necklace) Akoays can be golden too. I have a vintage strand that apparently was never bleached and have had them mistaken for small south sea pearls even by a friend who knows much about jelwelry.

- Karin
 
Thanks Karin! That would possibly explain it. Could akoya be 8-9 mm? Is it not too big for it?
Also the luster is not typical akoya - although it could of course be lost with the age, after using perfume etc


If it is akoya from after the war period - does it have any value?
 
If you can get a good macro of the stone in the clasp one might be able to tell if its likely an emerald. Of course an ID over the web would be suspect, but sometimes emerald cabs can be rather distinctive.

Here is the close-up of the clasp

DSC_6922.jpg
 
Thanks Karin! That would possibly explain it. Could akoya be 8-9 mm? Is it not too big for it?
Also the luster is not typical akoya - although it could of course be lost with the age, after using perfume etc


If it is akoya from after the war period - does it have any value?

Akoya can be that size, though it's fairly large. My golden ones are almost up there. And they also do not have the mirror-like luster you usually see in akoya. They have a softer, more satiny luster which is probably why my friend mistook them for SSP. These pearls have been tucked away in a safe for 30 years before they saw the light of day - not because they were perfect, but I guess the family of Sarah (Kojima Pearls) had no use for them at the time.

Akoya always have a value - it's just hard to say how much :) You could try to follow finished auctions at eBay (not on-going, only necklaces that actually sold) and see what they are going for. You could also try to contact a local auction house if the plan is to sell them.

- Karin
 
Hmmm, if that centre stone is indeed an emerald, then it would be quite costly to replace. It has a nice colour and looks rather clean as in not showing much inclusions in the photo.

DK :)
 
I can't tell even at +++ if that is an emerald or not - but on the other hand it certainly could be.

Looks like the ends of the strands are french whipped which I would take to be a good sign. Again hard to be certain with these images.
 
The workmanship of the clasp is lovely, though perhaps the big stone is a sapphire or other gemstone than emerald, even glass, because of its apparent flawlessness. It could be a paste replica. This necklace is interesting, but way out of my expertise. They do not appear to have knots between the pearls.

If akoya, they are rather large for the apparent time range of the clasp. Are the pearls slightly gritty, or smooth? (rub two together gently or one across the edge of your teeth- gritty is real nacre, smooth is imitation. ) The earlier photo is closer to the color than the newer one?

If so, they could be akoya from the 60's. The clasp does not seem to be a perfect match, maybe it is from an older strand?
 
Thanks everybody for a quick brainstorm!

Caitlin, that's exactly what I find confusing - the pearls do have knots, there is French wire (looking quite old), the clasp does not look like a replaced one, but the pearls are too big for akoya and have a typical golden colour.
The strand is not with me now but back to the owner but I will advice her to try it by teeth.
 
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