Dogeared Jewelry - perpetrating the myth

[knotty panda]

No, but you might try mokume gane as a substitute.

 

[pearlescence]

Thanks for the suggestion - never heard of mokume gane - details? source?

 

[AMc]

Mokume gane is a folding technique used in feudal Japan that literally translates to "Wood Grain Metal", and started gaining in modern popularity again about a decade ago. The finish is slightly matte, but the patterns that emerge from the process are intricate, organic and very lovely.

Check out this artist here: http://www.mokume.com/

And this picture is an excellent example of the finished product.

 

[Heidi]

There is also Keum-boo which is a gilding technique for gold to silver. It's really lovely. I am having a ring made which uses this technique and as soon as it's with me I will post photos.

In the meantime, here are a couple examples. The necklace is by Ricarda Art Jewelry (LINK) and the bangle is by Chantay Curnow and Robert Curnow (LINK).

 

[AMc]

Oh goodness that's GORGEOUS. I love the burned / antiqued look of the bracelet- it's like Pirate Booty fished from the ocean!

Thats a really great link too- signed up for the newsletter

 

[Heidi]

Lots of great designers on that site!

I also love that "booty" look of the bangle. The gold really glows and the relative weight of it is not great so the costs of keum-boo jewelry are not as staggering.

 

[pearlescence]

Makume - is the folding done individually for each piece or do you buy a slab and use it - a bit like frozen puff pastry?
love the other technique too - oh if only I had time to play

 

[barbie biggs]

Thank you all for the answers about gold dipped, filled, vermeil, etc. It seems counterintuitive that something known as gold dipped would have so little gold content. The term itself raises mental pictures of dipping something in actual gold, which seems to imply something more.
barbie
Could be wrong but isn't Mokume related to the ancient art of folding/forging metal for swords in Japan? It's beautiful.

 

[knotty panda]

Mokume gane is folded, then stretched, then folded, then stretched, like twenty times for a very thin sheet of metal. The stretching breaks the metal which causes the grain to form. Yes, buy it by the sheet. I understand people also work with PMC gold and silver clay and a pasta maker to achieve a poor man's effect.

Interesting you should post that link. I think I posted the conch picture on that site here many years ago.

 

[Chameleon]

Thanks, everybody, the terms are much more clear now.

The both, Mokume and Keum-boo are very interesting techniques. I don't think I ever saw any piece of jewelry done in Mokume in person. Is the surfice smooth or kind of raised or can be done both ways?

Maria

 

[pattye]

The pieces of Mokume I have seen are smooth, mostly rings. They are fascinating and gorgeous! In Keum-boo that I've seen in person the gold is applied over another metal and is a thin sheet, so could easily have some texture.

 

[Pearlgully]

Does anyone know where I could get electrum? Apart from raiding a few tombs? I have a yen for this unusual mix

The few times I've worked with electrum, I've alloyed it myself. Start with a piece of 24k gold and weigh it. Then add 40% of FINE silver to whatever the 24k gold weight is.

ex: Melt (10 dwts of 24k gold plus 4 dwts of fine silver) = electrum.

For a little stronger metal, you can use 22k instead of 24k.

I hope this helps but personally, I do not like electrum. I find it much too soft and a big waste of gold (especially in today's market). Although, I don't know what your intentions are, you might want to consider just using fine silver and sand off the shine...... it's a lot cheaper.


Gail

 

[pearlescence]

I had a fancy to use it just for being different really....I'll note the recipe because I have loads of scrap which I have never got around to sending off to the melt

...........although since much of the scrap is sterling would this ruin it? or would it make some other alloy?

 

[Pearlgully]

...........although since much of the scrap is sterling would this ruin it? or would it make some other alloy?

! No.... don't alloy with sterling. I had feeling you might think of sterling so I capitalized "FINE" in my prior post. If you want electrum, use only fine silver to alloy with the gold.


Gail

 

[pearlescence]

I did spot that FINE. not the sort of silver one has lying around though and why I wondered if using sterling would produce some other named alloy

 

[judimcc6]

Ok, so tell me if I am crazy. I am on a committee to organize an event for our Art Center and there is a raffle for a number of items, among them a necklace that has a letter from the owner that it is worth $3000. and then an appraisal from a jewelry store for $1800. That's not even the problem. The necklace is composed of 3mm onyx and 3mm crystal beads with a GOLDPLATED clasp. It is definitely goldplated and not 18kt gold...no stamp and it looks like costume. What could I do but dash home and take out of stock a 36" beautiful rope of 11mm FWP. It doesn't retail for $3000. or $1800. but it sure is a lot more desirable.

I was happy to stop some tears with pearls.

 

[GemGeek]

I have a pet peeve about that -- they put a grossly inflated value on the item so they can take it off on their taxes. If it's a business, they are supposed to pay sales tax on the value they state, but most never do.

You can feel great about donating your huge and lovely pearls. I hope they go for a lot of $$$

 

[raj]

Re electrum, presumably green gold is the modern day equilavent given the same metal content?
I guess you would get a pale rose gold if you alloy with sterling although typically the copper content is signifcantly higher.

 

[Pearlgully]

I did spot that FINE. not the sort of silver one has lying around though and why I wondered if using sterling would produce some other named alloy

I do not have an answer to your question. I can only tell you that I have studied with master goldsmiths of classical/ancient jewelry and the formula that I printed above was the one they shared with me.


Gail

 

[pearlescence]

I'm not disputing the recipe.
Did ancient Egypt, where they used a lot of electrum have 22ct gold though? Obviously not sterling silver since there was no sterling! Pure and Pure?