CIBJO Pearl Commission

[pbazar]

The CIBJO Pearl Commission has voted on a number of amendments to the Pearl Blue Book, a definitive set of standards for pearl grading, methodology and nomenclature that the commission has updated each year since the guide's publication in 2006.

The new amendments, including a unanimous vote against the use of the term "cultured" to describe synthetic diamonds, as well as board elections, were made during the most recent CIBJO Congress, held in April of 2008 in Dubai, United Arab Emirates.

The Pearl Commission re-elected Martin Coeroli as president, Shigeru Akamatsu as vice president, and elected Gati Rabbani as a second vice president. The commission also adopted new resolutions on the definition of Clause 5.16 "bead" for cultured pearls, Clause 5.110 "luster enhancement," Clause 5.132 "nacre thickness," Clause 5.52 "cultured blister" and Clause 5.220 "working."

Looking ahead, the Pearl Steering Committee is finalizing the proposals that will be presented at the 2009 CIBJO Congress, taking place May 3-5 in Istanbul. The proposals include recommendations to disclose a new cultured pearl treatment in which metal fluids are injected into a pearl's sac to induce varying colors as "color-induced cultured pearls;" to change the "Salt Water Cultured Pearls" Clause 4.2.8 to have the word "saltwater" always preceed the words "cultured pearl" in any reference to a "saltwater cultured pearl;" and to complete the appendix list of pearl mollusks.

In addition, the committee will recommend changing the definition of "Keshi cultured pearls" to "a trade term that designates a non-beaded cultured pearl (5.136) formed accidentally or intentionally by human intervention in marine pearl oysters such as the Akoya oyster (Pinctada fucata 5.158), Silver/Gold lipped oyster (5.198) (Pinctada maxima 5.163) Black lipped oyster (Pinctada margaritifera 5.162), and freshwater molluscs."

For 2009, the committee said it also intends to continue raising awareness of the environmental issues associated with cultured pearl production, discuss pearl supply and confer on the impact of the global economic crisis and the best strategy for the pearl industry to adopt.

 

[Pearlgully]

"The proposals include recommendations to disclose a new cultured pearl treatment in which metal fluids are injected into a pearl's sac to induce varying colors as "color-induced cultured pearls;"

METAL FLUIDS......! Sounds toxic...... and not just to the water but how about to us, the wearers!. Can you tell us who is doing this? (Come to think of it, I probably already know.)


Gail

 

[pearlescence]

Not all metals are toxic.

 

[Pearlgully]

Not all metals are toxic.

Possibly, but if this process is being done in China.......... well, according to recent news articles, it sure seems that they're not exactly known for they're high quality controls.


Peter, is the injection of the "metal fluids" responsible for the beautiful metallic luster I've seen on some Chinese freshwater pearls?


Gail

 

[jshepherd]

It looks like CIBJO may finally be accepting cultured freshwater keshi pearls! I would say it is about time!

 

[perlenforum]

This new definition of keshi pearls would in fact be much more honest.

 

[dkan 168]

Possibly, but if this process is being done in China.......... well, according to recent news articles, it sure seems that they're not exactly known for they're high quality controls.

Or care too much about environmental damage!

However, they are not alone!

Yet, many of us are at fault for wanting good products at cheap prices!

DK

 

[pbazar]

It looks like CIBJO may finally be accepting cultured freshwater keshi pearls! I would say it is about time!

That is the first thing that hit me

 

[pbazar]

Peter, is the injection of the "metal fluids" responsible for the beautiful metallic luster I've seen on some Chinese freshwater pearls?


Gail

It may be but I am not familiar with this process. Is there any one that is I would be interested?

 

[jshepherd]

I've not heard of that pricess before. I did a search of Wan Fang which usually has just about everything related to pearl research and came up blank.

The idea of something like this is not something I'd expect to see in China - at least not on an industrial scale. The pearls with the finest metallic sheen are so rare and perfect, it would take a large-scale effort to create just a few of them. Remember, most freshwater pearls are very low-grade. I think the indtroduction of an alloy and a metallic sheen are not related to each other. Coloration seems a more likely result.

 

[CortezPearls]

My thoughts on the metal fluid would be that they have to be inert, meaning they must not cause damage to the mussel (I am very certain this is done to some freshwater pearls and particularly the "Fireballs"). I would say these liquids would be safe for humans as well, unless they interact with other substances over time.
From my view point: if you can avoid using chemical substances you can have a better World.

Can't we just learn to Love & show Respect to the "Queen of Gems"??? Before the latter part of the XXth Century the Pearl was Loved, Cherished & Accepted as a Gift of Nature (in Billy Joel's wise words: "I love you just the way you are")...now in this "New Era", do we really have to process -simple torture- and bend Nature to our Will (add metallic fluids) just to make a miserable dollar??? To me, this is the heart of the matter.

 

[Hanaleimom]

I hope this "liquid" thing is not going to happen. FW pearls are pretty as they are.

 

[Pearlgully]

Thanks to Peter, Jeremy, and Douglas for responding to my question. I will be contacting the labs in NYC to see if they have any information on this metal fluid treatment.


Douglas, that was an impressive article I read about your company in "Colored Stone".


Gail

 

[Nerida]

Can't we just learn to Love & show Respect to the "Queen of Gems"??? Before the latter part of the XXth Century the Pearl was Loved, Cherished & Accepted as a Gift of Nature (in Billy Joel's wise words: "I love you just the way you are")...now in this "New Era", do we really have to process -simple torture- and bend Nature to our Will (add metallic fluids) just to make a miserable dollar??? To me, this is the heart of the matter.

Doug, thank you for your thoughts... I too, am hesitant of the thought of metallic injections into pearls to enhance colour...
However, progress, and technology is what makes our pearl industry turn. Like all developments, some will be good, some will be bad, some will be tried and discarded, others will be retained...
Whilst I completely respect your love for a natural product, we must remain congniscent of the fact that cultured pearls of any type are a bending of nature to our will... no?

 

[CortezPearls]

I absolutely concur with you Nerida: by producing cultured pearls we are -indeed- imposing our will on Nature. But the process of pearl aquaculture is just like any other form of farming/husbandry. Would we all be able of finding lunch if we had to go out into the bush/river/ocean to forage or hunt? Of course not.
In this sense it just makes plain sense to grow your oysters (and make them produce pearls) instead of devastating all the world's pearl beds.

But, where I draw my line is in the respect we should have for the Pearl as a Gem. When you start (mis)treating a Gem like any other common object (ball bearings, glass beads, pick your own example) that is the moment when you have stripped away all dignity from a Queen. I believe that ALL PEARL TREATMENTS should be FULLY DISCLOSED and people should be aware that most pearls are industrially processed. People should also be treated with respect in this sense...regardless of their pearl knowledge (or lack of it).
Sorry if I "text" (sound doesn't sounds good on written matter) a bit cranky...the twins are not allowing me much sleep recently

Anyway, I was thinking about the metallic fluid last night. I remembered speaking with Shigeru Akamatsu about Porphyrins: proteins that bind with a metallic ion (just like our red-blood cells use hemoglobin). Porphyrins are partially responsible for pearl coloration...and they should be stable enough in an environment devoid of UV rays and oxygen. Lore Kieffert of GIA (NYC) should have a good clue on this subject.

 

[Nerida]

But, where I draw my line is in the respect we should have for the Pearl as a Gem. ...I believe that ALL PEARL TREATMENTS should be FULLY DISCLOSED and people should be aware that most pearls are industrially processed. People should also be treated with respect in this sense...regardless of their pearl knowledge (or lack of it).

I agree, Douglas. I was merely playing devil's advocate... the problem is that the line to which you refer is placed subjectively. One man's nucleation is another man's mistreatment; whilst one man's metal injection is another man's desire to produce a more beautiful gem...
Full disclosure of all treatments is essential for credibility to remain within the industry. I talk to so many jewellers selling high end pearls who seem to know very little of pearl sources, and treatments. For example, one of Sydney's most respected jewellers told me just a few weeks' ago that all gold south seas in the world are grown in Broome...
I am yet to find a jeweller with any knowledge of freshwater nucleation, yet alone be able to identify it!

 

[GemGeek]

Great thread. Thanks Peter for the update. Nice to know they have caved on the keshi thing. It was hard to explain the reasoning. Now we don't have to, yay!

Fascinating about the metal injection. Can't wait to hear more.

 

[Nerida]

Ah, the keshi decision... didn't touch on that earlier - I think this is great news, and great to have something definitive here!