All about silk thread

Some pearls are more chalky than others, but Tahitians have a mother of pearl bead inside. MoP is strong stuff and I doubt it would abrade with nylon or PowerPro or plastic coated wire like Softflex or Beadalon.

I have seen some Tahitian/Cook Island pearls, really fat keshi. It had huge holes
 
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No. I said I felt beeswax is cost-effective. It's in another thread.
Here it is:
knotty panda:
Retailers don't prep their silk. Hanging strands to stretch before knotting isn't cost effective. You'll have to ask them why they don't use beeswax. It's such a knotting time saver, I would think it would be very cost effective.

You are still saying the professionals don't use beeswax and therefore are not preparing the thread correctly. I am just trying to clarify your points about the proper preparation for silk and the fact that pros don't properly prepare the silk they advertise so proudly. ;)
 
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Here is how I currently do things.

It never occurred to me to use any thread but silk when I do work with pearls for myself and customers...other than pearls mixed with stones/metals that might tear or fray the silk (gemstone beads from India, in particular, are highly irregular and sometimes jagged inside). I use silk because, when I learned all this, I was told people expect silk under pearls. I have no good reason other than its the way I was taught and the way I always do it. I am open to trying nylon as I can't stand stretched out silk, but I wouldn't feel comfortable selling a piece done in nylon at this time because of the expectation that knotting is to be done on silk. Narrow-minded....yes.

I also believe there is something to be said for the proper preparation of the silk. I manually stretch mine twice. Then I run it through a cake of beeswax and then stretch it again. I also pull on it strongly as I knot. Ideally, this helps to prevent stretching out in the near future.

I also understand what someone said a while back about the feel of silk. Sure, you can't tell when you are wearing it. But, while you work with it, it feels nicer flowing through your fingers. More specifically, I absolutely love the feel of Gudebrod moving over my fingers. It's much softer than Griffin. Gudebrod seems to stretch out more, though and no needle! Griffin's disadvantage is that the knots look bulkier...especially the beginning and ending knots...bleck. It almost makes me wonder why many professionals insist that french wire is the only way to go. Precious metal end caps, to me look far more finished.

At my local jewelry store I recently saw a very expensive akoya necklace finished with open bead tips (not clamshell) and an ugly knot spilling out over it. Not that mine would look much better with that kind of ending. But I just wonder about the industry standards and if they are always right...kind of like Caitlyn was saying about "why silk."

Heavens...that's a lot to say about thread!!
 
The reason Griffin looks bulkier is it is beading cord, not thread.
 
Hi Caitlin,

I think perhaps a drop of glue on the knot. -

Pattye
so many pearls, so little time

Hello everyone,

About that specific question, would you prefer a drop of glue or a drop of nail lacquer ?

thanks for answering
 
Hummm---

Whatever works, but with my nail polish it would be a rather large drop, and I would be concerned that it didn't penetrate into the threads properly. The glue I have used has a tiny dispenser tip and is quite watery. Creative solutions are fine with me!!;)

Pattye
so many pearls, so little time
 
Hello CliClasp

My preference is to use good quality clear nail varnish - applied with a fine needle - it wicks right into the core of the knot -seals well and does not yellow. None of which I can really say for glue.

I'm also perhaps prejudiced against glue after having to deal with the aftermath of too heavily\wrongly applied glues seeping into the pearl holes - making for an unpleasant cleanup - nail varnish at least can be easily cleaned up - not so with many glues.
 
Hi everyone. It's taken me over a week, and I hope everyone (thanks, Boo) had a great laugh, but I think I am finally over my bowstring misunderstanding!! Yes, I'm a musician, and remember that Australia doesn't have a pre-firearms history, so please forgive my naivety, and feel free to edit away, Admin!

All that aside, I would like to thank all the fabulous beaders for their contributions on this thread. Caitlin - particularly the clasp attachment lesson, with and without the crimps. Pattye - can't find any mention of tornado crimps in catalogues here - nor at one of the major wholesalers I visited last week - do you have photos of what they look like? They are probably available under a different name?

I bought the "Pearl Beading and Stringing with Henrietta" book the other day, and it is enormously instructive. When life is a little quieter I will practice some more - I bought some gorgeous unstrung mismatched baroque SS's a couple of weeks ago and would like to think could string them myself.
I'm very interested in the nail varnish/glue thoughts also - any general consensus?
 
I've searched and can't find the relevant posts, so am asking here; is Powerpro fishing line the same stuff as Powerpro beading thread ?
I bought the white Powerpro from Artbeads.com and am very impressed.
I needed very fine thread, but strong, for a particular project and it's worked a treat.
Now I'd like the moss green, but can only find the green from angling suppliers. If it's the same thing, I'll order some.
 
That Soft Flex PowerPro looks good. I did buy the .006 in a moss green fishing line 1500 feet of it. It is identical to the beading thread. It did not give off color when soaked like the yellow does.

Update: the red also runs, see example a few pages on. bead stores don't carry red or yellow. They carry the moss green and the white.

Suzanne Hye of Hye on Beads carries it too. I like her. She has a 100meter power pro in white too. for 15.95-that's about a $6 savings.
 
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Thanks Knotty and Caitlin,
I'll order the moss green fishing line and report back when I've tried it out.
I must say that, as a dedicated silk person, I tried the Powerpro in desperation as silk just didn't do the job required.
And I'm highly delighted with the results....
Thanks to all of you in the beader's club.
Will post photos. of the finished project when it's done. Which will be a while yet as I haven't got all the beads required.....
 
Let me know about the drape. I value your opinion. :)
 
Hi Knotty,
O.K. then.
I've just finished a necklace, and I have to say that the drape isn't as nice as silk.
It's pretty good, but stiffer than silk. Silk has a softer, less rigid look and feel; silk definitely feels nicer around my neck.
But, I guess if a person didn't have experience of wearing silk strung beads, then the Powerpro is perfectly acceptable.
I will say that the Powerpro knotted very well - tiny, almost invisible knots, placed exactly where I wanted them, and very neatly.
I will definitely be using it again as it is perfect for the spacer beads with tiny holes, and for something I have in mind which will require strength.
 
Hi Sueki,

I just thought the same as you wrote in your last sentence:
Power Pro drapes much better if you use heavy pearls, if you have small ones, silk feels better.
 
Hi everyone,

I just wanted to let you know that I have had no luck in getting any answers whatsoever from Superior Threads.com about the "Ceramic" Thread, GUNZE.

I have written several times but so far, nothing. If there is any other member who knows anything, please let us know.
 
My experience with Power Pro

My experience with Power Pro

I?d like to share my first experience with Power Pro beading thread. I used the .009?, 20 lb. test, with some 9.5-10mm, baroque, commercial quality pearls.

The first thing I noticed is that it feels different from silk ? very different. It isn?t soft and supple but kind of wiry, and I didn?t like the way it handled. While I was knotting, I was muttering to myself and cursing Caitlin for recommending this awful thread. I couldn?t understand how anything as wiry as Power Pro could possibly drape nicely. Well, I was wrong. It drapes beautifully! Someone in the forum mentioned that the drape is not as nice on smaller pearls, and that?s probably quite true, but I?ve ordered some .006?, 10 lb. test, to try it for myself on small pearls.

I?m sure it will take a bit of getting used to the way it handles but it?s worth the perseverance. The knots are snug up against the pearls where they belong. I made the necklace a few weeks ago and the knots haven?t budged. I can?t say the same for the 9-9.5mm rounds I strung on silk at about the same time. They?re the reason I tried Power Pro.

I?m a Power Pro convert. I will never doubt Caitlin?s expertise again. You?re my guru of all things beading, Caitlin. :D

Serenity
 
Just finished my second necklace using Powerpro and I have to say that I'm becoming more and more impressed with Powerpro.
The gold beads and the gem beads are tiny, and the drill holes almost invisible they're so small.
Yet I knotted between each pearl and the knots sit snugly inside the gold beads.
I find the Powerpro doesn't twist when stringing, unlike silk, and is less temperamental.
Although I like the feel of silk and will use it whenever possible, I am converted to Powerpro for it's use with anything where silk just isn't suitable.
Thanks to the beaders club for the info.
 

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Sueki, thats really gorgeous. What color are the pearls? They almost look a light green - could be just my computer.
 
Hi Lisamla,
Thanks. The pearls are silver-white, but have strong blue and green orient, overtones, which is what the camera picked up on.
 
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