Alison Britton's antique natural pearls

[Alison]

The forum moderators kindly suggested that I start a thread to show my finds in antique natural pearls. I've finally had the time to take them up on the idea!

Natural pearls are my passion, and every strand represents a successful treasure hunt. This is one of my current ones -- probably #3 in my top three found so far. I'm pasting the cert as well, which lists the specifications. This is a substantial necklace -- 22" long and 11.6 grams total -- with a gorgeous diamond clasp! I believe it dates to ca. 1915.

I will return and add to this later; first I will post it to see if I have been successful in navigating the new format here.

 

[GemGeek]

Gorgeous necklace and lucky you! Thanks for posting and welcome to Pearl-Guide.

 

[Alison]

Thanks! They are indeed beautiful. But I will feel much luckier when the day comes in which I get to keep my finds, if you know what I mean.

 

[lisa c]

Oh, lovely, but will you also tell us about your Finding Experiences? Local Auctions, thrift stores, yard sales??? I just love stories, and these are trophies, FINDS! ya know?

 

[pattye]

Gorgeous necklace, and so nice to see the certification! You are doing very well taking photos!

 

[Alison]

Hi Lisa,
Yes, all of the above and more. But for the moment, my search-and-rescue methods/routine are proprietary!

 

[lisa c]

Hee hee hee! got it.

 

[Alison]

Here's another natural pearl necklace -- smaller and not as valuable as the first, of course, but still lovely (as are almost all natural pearls!). The pearls are off-round to oval, and the 18K clasp is set with a sharp light yellow diamond (looks darker than it is in the second photo) and synthetic rubies. If you are familiar with Edwardian and Art Deco jewelry, you already know that synthetic rubies dominated in cutting small fancy shapes from about 1901. I think the bezel for the diamond on this clasp is platinum. I'm about to have the clasp repolished and the necklace restrung.

 

[Alison]

A Natural Pearl Ring

A Natural Pearl Ring

I've always found it more difficult to make a visual judgment about a pearl ring than a necklace. When I sent this ring for testing, I was sure it was going to come back as cultured! Just goes to show that you can be wrong in both directions.

These natural pearls are each a good size (~6.5mm), and white. They do have blemishes (much more obvious in the photos, taken with a macro lens) because they are indeed ring pearls, not pearls suitable for a necklace.

The setting is 14K white gold and dates to the 1920s. The surprising thing here is that it is pearls alone, no diamonds or other stones.

The certificate does not take the setting into account, only because the pearls had to be unmounted for testing, and I reglued them when I got the ring back.

 

[lisa c]

Can't wait for the next installment ! Cool stuff !

 

[pattye]

Alison,

Thank you for sharing your lovely finds! Certified natural pearls are so rare and beautiful! To see full strands is a treat! Oh, and I LOVE the ring!

 

[Alison]

Natural pearl necklace

Natural pearl necklace

Well, 2011 has been a slow year for natural pearl necklace finds. I've only found two this year -- three if you count a mixed necklace -- whereas in 2010 I found eight! The photos below show my latest, with cert. The pearls are not large (up to 5.61mm) but of beautiful quality and roundness, all the way to the back (which as you may know is not always the case).

 

[Alison]

A Victorian Double Natural Pearl & Diamond Ring

A Victorian Double Natural Pearl & Diamond Ring

I simply love this ring! It dates to around 1890. From the photos, you may think these are half pearls, but they are not -- they are complete, not even drilled, and only slightly off-round. The setting clearly was made to fit these two pearls exactly, and you can tell it has been worked by hand, not just popped out of a mold.

Before I had my jeweler clean the mounting and reset the pearls, one of them easily could be pushed out from the back. I was gratified to see that there were no nasty spots; no decay or discoloration hidden by the mounting. The pearls are a beautiful, glowing light cream color, with a satin-like surface. The six old-mine cut diamonds (so much nicer than their modern counterparts!) set them off beautifully.

 

[pattye]

Alison,

Lovely pieces, thanks again for sharing and such wonderful photos! The necklace is amazing to me because of the roundness. Wishing you much success in your Natural Pearl Treasure Hunt 2012!

 

[Caitlin]

Who are the EGL? EGL USA? I see they do diamonds. Why not use the GIA? I can't find EGL and Pearls in one Google hit.

 

[pattye]

EGL, European Gemological Labratory, they are all over the world and appear to have been around for awhile. I found lots of info on Google, but haven't had time to read it all. Seems to be independently owned, and for profit, dealing primarily in diamonds. Will be curious about how others interpret what you find on google. (I removed that they "appear well respected" and added "appear to have been around for awhile," because I haven't had time to read much about them.

 

[Alison]

EGL is in NYC -- same building as GIA. They do diamonds, colored stones, and pearls, and are well known. In fact I think that the only two working pearl machines in the US at the moment are in that building (correct me if wrong -- I don't know where the AGTA one went when they closed). Years ago I sent pearls to GIA but at that time they did not include a photo in their report, so I switched to EGL and have a good working relationship with them. They are also more affordable when you are uncertain of what you may have, and want a pregrading before a cert (most useful with mixed necklaces that need to be rearranged, restrung, and sent again, as they will mark the individual cultured pearls). I'm also a bit perturbed by GIA's use of language like "predominantly natural saltwater pearls" -- does this mean I have one cultured pearl in the strand? Ten?

 

[Ash]

I love the Diamond and Ruby clasp, the two pearl an diamond accent ring is also very lovely!! Great stuff!! Your Photos are awesome! Thank yo so much for sharing!

Cheers

Ash

 

[Caitlin]

I see they(egl) are a bit controversial re diamonds but EGL USA is better thought of.

In any case. Thank you for posting your pearls. They are outstanding! Please post some more.

I subscribe to both Christies and the other auction place, Bonhams. They are great sources for natural pearl strands. A couple of years ago the prices were better for the buyer. Now they seem to be picking up again. For a while, naturals were about the same price as cultured!

 

[Alison]

I've sent diamonds to EGL in NYC and thought they were VERY tough in grading them. I know there was a problem in their Tel Aviv office at one point. But let us not forget that GIA had its own diamond grading scandal, and more recently.

I hope to have more pearls to post soon -- am assembling a batch to send for testing (unfortunately no more necklaces just yet!).