Differentiate saltwater from freshwater pearls

[Freshpeachez]

I'm working my way through the Pearlsasone course, but I'm still unclear how to differentiate saltwater from freshwater pearls. Can anyone offer some tips?

 

[Pearl Dreams]

The question is too broad.

There are different kinds of saltwater pearls-- Akoyas, South Sea and Tahitians are 3 major examples.
And there are different kinds of freshwater pearls-- most are from China but there are also some from Japan (Kasumi).

If you have questions about the specific section of the course you are on, you can post a question below the chapter.

 

[Freshpeachez]

The question is too broad.

There are different kinds of saltwater pearls-- Akoyas, South Sea and Tahitians are 3 major examples.
And there are different kinds of freshwater pearls-- most are from China but there are also some from Japan (Kasumi).

If you have questions about the specific section of the course you are on, you can post a question below the chapter.

Thank you for the feedback.

What I want to know is how to visually tell the difference between fresh/salt water pearls when I'm looking at pearl jewelry.

I believe you responded to my post about potential Tahitian pearl strand necklaces and confirmed they were dyed freshwater pearls and I'm curious how you can tell that they are freshwater?

As I'm going through the course, it appears that both salt and fresh water pearls produce round, baroque, and semi-round shapes. So I'm guessing that you can't determine where it's grown based on the shape of the pearl alone.

 

[Pearl Dreams]

In the case of the pearls you thought were Tahitian (and were sold as such), the shapes and colors of the pearls indicated they were freshwaters (as we explained on that thread). For example, I mentioned typical ranges of colors for dyed FWP as opposed to Tahitians.

With experience, looking at lots of pearls, you will come to see the differences also. The Show Us Your Pearls In Action thread is great for this. Also look at photos of pearls on reputable selling websites. Kamoka and Pearl Paradise (just for 2 examples) have many photos of real Tahitian pearls.

As you realize, saltwater and freshwater pearls all have more and less lustrous pearls, shapes that are not necessarily round, and circled pearls are also common in both categories. They can have similar colors. It is not so easy to generalize, then, about how to tell the difference. It takes experience.

 

[Pearl Dreams]

I just want to add that it's always wise to buy pearls from trustworthy sources. That is the best way to avoid buying pearls that are not as advertised. Especially since the Chinese are now producing truly round bead-nucleated freshwater pearls.

I realize this may not be a fully satisfying answer. But keep on learning and you'll get better at it.

 

[SteveM]

In the 18 years I've been looking in here the quality of FW has so dramatically improved that visual distinctions are indeed challenging. Labs can differentiate the respective trace minerals (strontium/manganese ratio) which serves to discourage deception.

A (hopefully) tongue-in-cheek response to this question that popped up on a Reddit forum in a quick search:

'They just taste different.'

I wonder how long you have to keep them on your tongue?

 

[Freshpeachez]

I just want to add that it's always wise to buy pearls from trustworthy sources. That is the best way to avoid buying pearls that are not as advertised. Especially since the Chinese are now producing truly round bead-nucleated freshwater pearls.

I realize this may not be a fully satisfying answer. But keep on learning and you'll get better at it.

Thank you for your advice! I’m beginning to understand there’s no easy answer to my question and more experience will be my best bet.

I’m trying to solve this question as I’m going through the strands of pearls I’ve purchased at thrift stores.

I want to say most of these are saltwater, (except for the pink strand and maybe the white and turquoise one) but I honestly have no idea

 

[Freshpeachez]

In the 18 years I've been looking in here the quality of FW has so dramatically improved that visual distinctions are indeed challenging. Labs can differentiate the respective trace minerals (strontium/manganese ratio) which serves to discourage deception.

A (hopefully) tongue-in-cheek response to this question that popped up on a Reddit forum in a quick search:

'They just taste different.'

I wonder how long you have to keep them on your tongue?

I love this! I guess they would taste saltier?

Going through the course, I’m amazed at the advances in pearl culturing in such a short amount of time! The “new freshwater” section is what really got me questioning how do you tell the difference anymore?

 

[ennui]

I'd bet money the white strand with turquoise and apatite nuggets is Honora and was sold on QVC. So, freshwater.
The black pearls are freshwater, too. And the pink.
You learn by looking at a lot of pearls. Tahitian pearls look ... oily.

I once saw a single white South Sea pendant that was $4,000. I just stared, it was luminous.

 

[SteveM]

I love this! I guess they would taste saltier?

AI to the rescue!

"While strontium itself may not have a taste, it can be associated with salts that create a 'salty' taste, and it can be associated with 'hard' or saline water."

Coming from the wine business, never has there been a better case for mandatory spitting…

Others here are far more adept than I, but pending closer inspection my impression is that salty pearls are lacking among your strands.

 

[Pearl Dreams]

• The black and pink ones and the ones with blue beads are freshwater. The black are dyed.
• The first small strand is akoya. Nacre is not thick however and I see blemishes.
• The second white strand has low luster. Some of the pearls look elongated (which would be more typical of FWP) but I assume that is just distortion from the camera? If so they are likely akoya, but they have thin nacre hence the milky appearance.
• The white strand between the black and pink ones, not sure from those photos but I think freshwaters-- some of the ripply surfaces and one of the blemishes makes me think FWP. But I could be wrong; they could be yellowed akoyas without a lot of luster, if they are round and not elongated, as some of the pearls look. Take a closer look at the areas near the drill holes; is there any erosion-- can you see a bead inside?

Edited to add, Nope, really getting a FWP vibe from the 2 other white ones.
I think the only saltwater are the first white strand.

 

[Freshpeachez]

I'd bet money the white strand with turquoise and apatite nuggets is Honora and was sold on QVC. So, freshwater.
The black pearls are freshwater, too. And the pink.
You learn by looking at a lot of pearls. Tahitian pearls look ... oily.

I once saw a single white South Sea pendant that was $4,000. I just stared, it was luminous.

The only markings on the white and turquoise strand is “925” on the clasp. I just love all the different shapes of that strand!

I have yet to see a South Sea pearl in person, but I’d likely do the same thing!

 

[Freshpeachez]

• The black and pink ones and the ones with blue beads are freshwater. The black are dyed.
• The first small strand is akoya. Nacre is not thick however and I see blemishes.
• The second white strand has low luster. Some of the pearls look elongated (which would be more typical of FWP) but I assume that is just distortion from the camera? If so they are likely akoya, but they have thin nacre hence the milky appearance.
• The white strand between the black and pink ones, not sure from those photos but I think freshwaters-- some of the ripply surfaces and one of the blemishes makes me think FWP. But I could be wrong; they could be yellowed akoyas without a lot of luster, if they are round and not elongated, as some of the pearls look. Take a closer look at the areas near the drill holes; is there any erosion-- can you see a bead inside?

Edited to add, Nope, really getting a FWP vibe from the 2 other white ones.
I think the only saltwater are the first white strand.

That first white strand is the only one with a sterling silver clasp (besides the white and turquoise strand).

Here’s a close up of the second picture, middle strand. I can’t see a bead, but then again I might not recognize it even if there is one!

• The black and pink ones and the ones with blue beads are freshwater. The black are dyed.
• The first small strand is akoya. Nacre is not thick however and I see blemishes.
• The second white strand has low luster. Some of the pearls look elongated (which would be more typical of FWP) but I assume that is just distortion from the camera? If so they are likely akoya, but they have thin nacre hence the milky appearance.
• The white strand between the black and pink ones, not sure from those photos but I think freshwaters-- some of the ripply surfaces and one of the blemishes makes me think FWP. But I could be wrong; they could be yellowed akoyas without a lot of luster, if they are round and not elongated, as some of the pearls look. Take a closer look at the areas near the drill holes; is there any erosion-- can you see a bead inside?

Edited to add, Nope, really getting a FWP vibe from the 2 other white ones.
I think the only saltwater are the first white strand.

That first white strand is the only one with a sterling silver clasp (besides the white and turquoise strand).

Here’s a close up of the second picture, middle strand. I can’t see a bead, but then again I might not recognize it even if there is one

 

[Pearl Dreams]

They could be akoyas but they don't have much luster and no overtones. So either lower quality akoyas or FWP. Can't tell from photos.
What size are they?

And older akoya necklaces can have silver clasps.

 

[Freshpeachez]

They could be akoyas but they don't have much luster and no overtones. So either lower quality akoyas or FWP. Can't tell from photos.
What size are they?

And older akoya necklaces can have silver clasps.

First pictures is the questionable strand

Second picture is the strand with the sterling clasp

 

[Pearl Dreams]

So the 2nd white strand is about 7mm and is akoya, as is the first strand.
Thanks for the extra photos; they helped.

 

[Freshpeachez]

So the 2nd white strand is about 7mm and is akoya, as is the first strand.
Thanks for the extra photos; they helped.

Thank YOU so much for your time and help!! Now I have some comparison strands in my mind for when I go thrifting.

 

[A Breaker]

Freshpeachez... with Thrift store pearls... It helps a lot to know both clasp & pearl culturing. For instance, the graduated strand were a post WWII thing often sold to military stationed or going to Asia (I assume that the Korean & Vietnam War were big drivers of that...so 50's-60's) ..Most of those are akoya.... but when Freshwater Rice pearls (around the 70's) were introduced the graduated weren't fashionable any more. I have also found that saltwater pearls have a much less gritty nacre, when I gently rub the strand together. If fact, I have had people tell me that they are imitation, but by the drill hole, I can see that they are real pearls. So besides the gentle rub, look at drill holes...if you see paint build up or missing paint...the clasp still might be 10k gold & worth purchasing...but my experience with imitation pearl is that once the paint starts coming of...they are ruined. (Miram Haskell's might be different, I have never had her's) The next thing to do is get a restringing kit from Pattye's Etsy store and try restringing!

 

[BWeaves]

RE: Telling freshwater from saltwater.

It depends on the pearls. I don't think freshwater vs. saltwater. I think Tahitians, South Sea, Akoya, Kasumi, Chinese freshwater, etc. Some pearls will jump out at me immediately because the shape or color are typical of a particular type of pearl. But then there are pearls where I cannot tell the difference. For example, I have Kasumi pearls (Japanese freshwater pearls) from Kojima, and then I also have some Chinese freshwater pearls (also from Kojima) that mimic the Kasumi pearls so well that I cannot tell the difference. I bought them from the same vendor, and the price difference was immense. I have some Freshadamas (bead nucleated freshwater pearls) from Pearl Paradise that are so round and lustrous that they look exactly like good saltwater Japanese akoyas. On the flip side, I have dyed freshwater pearls from China that are so obviously NOT Tahitians, that there is no mistaking them. They are egg shaped, and the colors are wrong. They are not obviously weird dyed colors, but they are not Tahitian colors. But they are still pretty, and I love wearing them.

I remember reading a story in one of my pearl books about a pearl vendor who was brand new. He watched an experienced pearl guy go through strands of pearls and pick out which pearls were cultured and which were naturals. Sometimes the two types of pearls were mixed within a single necklace. He asked the experienced pearl guy how to tell the difference between cultured pearls and naturals, and the old guy said, "Someday you'll know." The young guy was pissed off that the old guy was hiding his secret method. Then one day, a few years later, the young guy was going through a new group of pearls and suddenly, Eureka! He could tell the difference between the cultured and natural pearls. All it took was more experience looking at lots and lots of pearls. I think this will happen to you one day if you continue with your love of pearls.

 

[Pearl Dreams]

...

I remember reading a story in one of my pearl books about a pearl vendor who was brand new. He watched an experienced pearl guy go through strands of pearls and pick out which pearls were cultured and which were naturals. Sometimes the two types of pearls were mixed within a single necklace. He asked the experienced pearl guy how to tell the difference between cultured pearls and naturals, and the old guy said, "Someday you'll know." The young guy was pissed off that the old guy was hiding his secret method. Then one day, a few years later, the young guy was going through a new group of pearls and suddenly, Eureka! He could tell the difference between the cultured and natural pearls. All it took was more experience looking at lots and lots of pearls. I think this will happen to you one day if you continue with your love of pearls.

I love that story! It's Maurice Shire's account in Antoinette Matlin's The Pearl Book: The Definitive Buying Guide.
So many other great stories in that book. The one by Nicholas Paspaley about what happened to his father is especially amazing.