Vermeil and lead

[Ramona]

I like the combination of precious stones and Kamoka pearls. It certainly looks like a set that can be worn to many occasions. The clasps and beads from Ninadesigns actually look quite attractive and I would not see a need to upgrade to solid gold. It seems they do the gold coat themselves, so there is some quality workmanship there. My worst fear with vermeil is always that the gold layer is not thick enough and nickel comes to surface.

 

[KarinK]

Vermeil and lead

Hi Ramona,

Sarah from Kojima Pearls introduced me to the products from Nina Designs. I was very sceptical at first, though I liked that the designs are original and not just the ever present Bali version, but I tend to wear vermeil down in a matter of weeks. In fact I am the perfect vermeil tester! Give me a piece to wear for two weeks and you'll know how it looks on everybody else after a year...

But somehow my favorite clasp from Nina just keeps the layer of gold on it. Big but happy surprise. The 'solid gold thing' is just because I feel the pearls deserve it. But they only deserve something even nicer than what they've got right now. I'll probably just end up buying new jewelry instead of upgrading the old.

I like that my jewelry does not match completely. I don't go for complete sets, especially since I wear my jewelry only for running around the house, writing at my local caf? and dropping kids off at school.

- Karin

 

[Ramona]

Thanks Karin. I was holding back on purchases from Nina Designs. Now I can dive in.

 

[pearlescence]

Can I query what you said ramona ' My worst fear with vermeil is always that the gold layer is not thick enough and nickel comes to surface. ' My understanding of vermeil is that it is carat gold plated onto sterling silver so there should not be any nickel coming to the surface...?

 

[Ramona]

Some companies actually put down a layer of nickel over sterling. I am not sure why. It may have something to do with the microplating. My chemistry classes are too far back. Ninadesigns also uses a nickel layer, but they declare it.

 

[pearlescence]

That's interesting...it would mean it could not be hallmarked over here. All the textbook definitiions talk about gold on silver only, no sandwiched layer of nickel. In europe nickel isn't even allowed in .925 silver so I think it would breach trading standards too.

 

[KarinK]

Qoute from Nina Designs website: Our gold plate “Vermeil style” is a satin finish with a 24 karat yellow gold or rose gold color. The plating process uses 98.5% pure gold. It is a gem quality plating that is 40 micro inches thick over sterling silver or bronze with a fine layer of nickel in between.

- Karin

 

[Ramona]

Ok. Wiki says that a layer of nickel is used as a barrier to prevent the diffusion of silver atoms into the gold layer, which would cause tarnishing of the surface. That makes sense to me.

 

[pearlescence]

I asked the London Assay Office, which is the arbiter of all matters precious metal in the UK, This is their response:
'Vermeil? that is produced with this nickel interface in place is not accepted for UK hallmarking as it contravenes the Hallmarking Act, ?Vermeil? that is produced without the nickel interface is okay for UK hallmarking, this would be processed as a silver packet'
Since much of the Pearlescence metal work does go to Goldsmith's Hall you can see which I will use.

 

[pattye]

Would suppose at some point years forward the vermeil would wear through to the nickel. And some women are very allergic to nickel, so that would be a concern, not just how the vermeil finding looks. Karin, good to have your report about how the Nina vermeil wears.

 

[Ramona]

I am allergic to nickel, so I appreciate knowing that Nina is safe. Actually, they declare their gold plated items as similar to vermeil, not true vermeil and they note that it may cause problems with customs in Europe. Though, I can see the advantage of the nickel layer as long as the gold does not wear down and it is declared. Personnally, I would prefer an even thicker layer. Agustus on ebay does 3 micron coating. But the choice is a bit limited.

 

[pattye]

Perhaps we will be seeing more choices in high quality vermeil with gold going in the direction it is. Rio Grande just came out with silver filled materials. White gold filled is still very limited.

 

[pearlescence]

Just for info, I went back and checked the paperwork on all my vermeil, which I had assumed is nickel free, and it certainly is.
Ramona, how cam something be similar to vermeil? You can't have bronze in vermeil, It has to be silver by definition. It sounds an odd sort of description, especially if they warn it would have problems through EU customs...Nickel is banned here in jewellery because allergy problems are so common.

 

[Ramona]

Here is their full definition. They actually call their sterling-nickel-gold sandwich vermeil style. I assume that the EU tends to regulate everything, whereas the US leaves some freedom.

http://www.ninadesigns.com/beading_questions/list/gold_plate/all/1

 

[pearlescence]

They can't call it vermeil by your own FTC rules. the plating is 2/5s the thickness which the FTC requires.Strikes me there is a lot of flurrying of figues to disguise this information a bit. If it has nickel in it isn't vermeil.

 

[Ramona]

Well, they declare it. So, I am fine with it as long as I know what I buy. I have more problems with products from Asian shops. There is usually very little information on what their definition of vermeil is.