Reliquary-inspired pearl earrings

[cyndayco]

Back when The Philippines was a colony of Spain (1521-1898), the populace was so religious, even their taste in jewelry was influenced by the Roman Catholic Church. Typical of this were gold "tamborin" earrings. They were inspired by the ornate filigree that adorned rosaries and reliquaries.



If you ever visit Manila, you'll see antique tamborin and vintage reproductions in museums, galleries, and antique shops. No one wears them anymore, but they are popular among collectors. It's very distinctly Filipino.

So here is the one pearl jewelry that speaks to me as a Filipino. It's vintage reproduction tamborin in vermeil, but updated for this century with 10.5mm FWPs.



If you look at the post, you'll see how they turned the hoop earring into a pearl stud with a filigree skirt.



I hope you like them.

 

[CathyKeshi]

Ah, those are Beautiful!!!

 

[pattye]

Cyndayco,

Thanks so much for sharing the fascinating bit of jewelry history! The original earrings are so delicate and graceful with the seed pearls (?) and the reproductions are most attractive, too. I'd think they would be flattering when worn. That style of earring back on the reproduction certainly helps the earring from falling forward.

 

[cyndayco]

There are no seed pearls on the first pair of earrings, Pattye. Think of tamborin as the trompe l'oile of jewelry. Our craftsmen of old didn't have gems, so they shaped the gold to look like diamonds, rubies, and pearls.

 

[CathyKeshi]

Very clever; I was sure the first pair had seed pearls too ... Lovely! It would be nice if the gold were jackets so you could switch pearl colors

 

[BAS]

Lovely! Thanks for sharing this.

 

[cyndayco]

It would be nice if the gold were jackets so you could switch pearl colors

Now, that's an idea. Let me suggest that to the lady who shared this with me.

 

[GemGeek]

Both types are very pretty. I have a soft-spot for filigree.

 

[pattye]

There are no seed pearls on the first pair of earrings, Pattye. Think of tamborin as the trompe l'oile of jewelry. Our craftsmen of old didn't have gems, so they shaped the gold to look like diamonds, rubies, and pearls.

Truly fascinating! Perhaps the metal is a different color to contrast and give the look of pearls (or other gems).

 

[GemGeek]

Maybe oxidation explains the two-tone effect. I would wear those cuties in a heartbeat!

 

[JerseyPearl]

Lovely earrings!

 

[CathyKeshi]

I would buy and wear, in a heartbeat ... and even faster if they were jackets

 

[cyndayco]

There. The woman who was selling the earrings let me buy and pay for them over 6 months. And within hours of posting photos on Facebook, someone else offered to buy them from me.

Now, to see if I can have them converted into earrings with jackets....

 

[pattye]

Cyndayco, you are a woman of action! Congratulations on your lovely new earrings!!!!

 

[cyndayco]

Replicating these earrings have been on and off my mind these past few weeks. So today, after a discussion in the other pearl forum about Pattye's granulated settings for her SoC mabe pearls, I found a lady who buys and sells these antique filigree jewellery.



Occassionally, she takes them apart and reconfigures the beads into new-old designs. More recently, she has been mixing them with vintage pearls. Like so:


These are about 18in in length.


Apparently, she has a sack full of vintage pearls (most of them Akoyas), discarded by traders who bought old jewellery for scrap gold. From the looks of these unfinished pieces, some of these pre-loved pearls are still in decent condition. (jmd, when you return to Manila, I'll gladly hook you up with her.)

I bought a pair of antique filigree earrings from her, and once I take some ear shots, I'll show you how I instantly turn them into a 2-in-1 accessory.

 

[pattye]

Cyndayco,

Lovely metalwork! Looking forward to see the filigree earrings. Just wish I could reach through the computer screen and examine each tiny bead!

 

[GemGeek]

I really like these!

 

[cyndayco]

I'm afraid, Pattye, that the style is nearly the same as my vintage reproduction, just smaller, more delicate, and older. (The antique lady says they're a century old, but I'll take that with a grain of salt.)



As CathyKeshi suggested, the first set of earrings would be better if the filigree could be taken off like a jacket. But buying another pair of earrings turned out to be cheaper than repairing the first set. There was no need to alter or retrofit anything!

So here are the filigree earrings with a pair of green Tahitian studs.



Here are the earrings alone. Very dainty.



Here are the pearls alone. These do tend to blend into my dark hair.



But when I securely insert the filigree earring between the stud and my earlobe, the pearl stands out. What a twofer!

 

[CathyKeshi]

Wow, those are lovely!!!

 

[pattye]

Cyndayco, Just beautiful! A winner!!