Rare and Radiant

Cyril Roger Brossard

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Allow me to share this article displayed in the on-board magazine SilkWinds of May-June 2012 (not sure if this was covered...)
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Rare and Radiant
Highly prized and bedecked with symbolism, the pearl is one of nature’s most spectacular gifts
By Jerico Abila
Fondly called the queen of Gems, the pearl has had a long and illustrious history both as a fashion accessory of incomparable beauty and as a priceless treasure befitting royalty and nobility, For centuries, this rare gem has been immortalized in countries literature and showcased in many forms of art and fashion. Highly prized for its beauty and elegance, the pearl has been the subject of interest for many, including Cleopatra, who is said to have two of the most exquisite pearl earrings in history.

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Caption: Above: oysters thrive in a pristine environment with clean moving water, and constant tidal patterns and temperatures.
Fascination for the pearl reached its peak during the Roman Empire. Lolia Paulina, the third wife of Emperor Caligula, was known for her life-long passion for pearls and emeralds, while the Roman General Vitellius is believed to have funded his entire military campaign by trading a piece of his mother’s pearl earrings. Also during the Roman Empire, women were so enamoured with the rare gem that they upholstered couches with pearls and adorned their gowns with countless radiant pieces.
In Asia, the storied gem appears in various historical texts, the earliest of which is believed to be about 4000 years ago in China, where they produce “strings of pearls that were not quite round”. The pearl also appears in ancient India, particularly the 3000 year old Rigveda, the oldest of the Vedas.

Various myths and legends surround the origin of the pearl. Some believe it is a source of great power while others regard it as medicinal, capable of treating a range of ailments. And for a very few, pearls are believed to be “tears of God”.

In Hindu culture, the pearl is associated with the moon and is symbolic of love and purity. It is believed tat Lord Krishna discovered the first pearl and presented it to his daughter Pandaia on her wedding day. In Islamic beliefs, the pearl is regarded in the Quran as one of the greatest rewards found in Paradise. In Christianity, the pearl represents purity and protection from evil.

The colour of a pearl is also bedecked with symbolism: black and gold for wealth, blue for love and pink for success.

Whatever the myth, origin or purpose, it remains a mystery when and where our global fascination for this gem first sprung up. But one thing’s for sure: whoever first discovered the pearl must have been mesmerized by it’s soft glow and unique lustre.

The pearl is one of the most universal and oldest jewels known to man. It has been around long before gold and diamonds were mined for jewelry. Unlike most gemstones that are buried in the earth, the pearl originated from a living creature, an oyster, or in some cases, from varieties of clams and mussels. Another characteristic that sets it apart from the other gems is its natural glow. The natural iridescent pearl requires no cutting, no polishing to reveal its beauty and radiance.

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Caption: the 2400-year-old Susa Necklace is the oldest pearl necklace still in existence. It was discovered in the tomb of a Persian princess who was buried with it.
One of the most celebrated pearls in modern history is the Pearl of Lao Tzu, also known as a Tridacna pearl, from a giant clam. It was discovered by an American scientist in the Philippine waters. At 24 centimetres in diameter and 6.4 kilograms in weight, this is the world’s largest known pearl.
Another pearl of distinct beauty is the La Peregrina, which once belonged to the legendary Hollywood actress Elizabeth Taylor. In December last year, the rare piece was auctioned off at Christie’s for a record-breaking US$11.84 million.



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Caption: The Kantha, a traditional Indian pearl necklace is an important accessory for Indian grooms.

Rounded, irregularly shaped or golden, the pearl is one of nature’s most spectacular gifts. Its creation begins with a single oyster that requires a foreign substance or irritant to catalyse the process. Protecting itself from the foreign substance, the oyster secretes layers of nacre to cover the irritant, which in the process creates the pearl.

Pearls can be classified as freshwater or saltwater. The former grow in certain lakes, ponds and rivers, and come from a specific family of mussels. They are more varied in colour and mostly irregular shaped, with sized ranging from 4 to 10 millimetres.
Saltwater pearls grow from the world’s seas. The process is long and random: one in a thousand oyster shells may contain a pearl, and perhaps only one of those may be considered truly exquisite.

Traditional pearling techniques involve free-divers manually collecting large numbers of oysters from the ocean floors and searching them for pearls. This technique is slowly becoming obsolete due to insignificant yields –typically, a ton of pearl oysters produces only three to four quality pearls. Growing global demand is pushing pearling techniques to be more cost-effective.

Pearls occur naturally in nature, most of which are formed randomly. Natural pearls rarely have commercial value, which creates a bigger market for cultured pearls, or pearls formed with human intervention. Cultured pearls are prized for their outstanding beauty and what they represent –years of dedication and hard work from the nurturing hands of pearl farmers. Ore importantly, cultured pearls pay tribute to the efforts of Kokichi Mikimoto, who launched the cultured pearl industry when he patented technique in 1916.

There are close to a dozen varieties of pearls, with some of the world’s most exquisite found in Asia and Australia’s pristine waters. The Akoya pearl, for instance, is grown mainly in Japan and China. Considered the most lustrous pearl type, they are cultured in the Pinctada fucata martensii, or the Akoya oyster. They are roundish and feature a spectrum of colours, from light pink to


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Caption: South Sea pearl black pearl and freshwater pearls on display.

white or creamy. Their sizes typically range from 3 to 9 millimetres. Round Akoya pearls larger than 10 millimetres are extremely rare, often fetching high prices.

The largest and most of all cultivated pearls is the South Sea pearls, cultivated from the large Pinctada maxima oyster in some of the most stunning pearl farms in Australia, Indonesia, Myammar and the Philippines. The golden variety is the rarest of them all.

It takes about four to five years to produce a golden pearl, a painstaking process that requires 323 individual steps. The oyster bed from which a pearl emerges is a natural habitat that must be nurtures consistently for a pearl to be conceived, demanding a pristine environment and the purest water to produce a single pearl of incomparable luster and beauty.

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Another gem of rare beauty is the freshwater pearl, the most commercially cultivated variety. They are commercially produced in China, the world’s largest producer of freshwater pearls, supplying nearly 96 per cent of global demand. Most of the pearling activities are centred in the southern part of the country, where environmental conditions for the oyster to thrive are ideal.

Other pearl varieties include Mabe pearls or hemi-spherical cultured pearls grown against the inside shell of any oyster rather than within the oyster’s body, as well as Keishi pearls that are known for their unusual shapes and sizes, and are mostly found in Australia, Japan, Indonesia, the Philippines and the French Polynesia.

That is all.
 
Puts a smile on your face this does! Silkwinds, that sounds like an airline magazine, pretty detailed, though i wish they had more 'hands on' pictures.
 
Thank you Cyril! That article has so much information of the history and geography of pearls at one place. Thanks for posting.
Thanks! That adds a real treasure to the archives!

You are welcome.
Silkwinds, that sounds like an airline magazine

SilkWinds in the on-board magazine of SilkAir. (SilkAir for those not familiar with the airliner is based in Singapore.)
 
The writer managed to bring me in to the journey of the pearl history in one short article. The way he wrote the article really showed his admiration for pearl and covered different aspects of pearl story-telling. kudos to the writer. I love this article! will keep it for personal reference.
 
Agree with nurain, great writer and article !
Thank You :)
 
The writer managed to bring me in to the journey of the pearl history in one short article. The way he wrote the article really showed his admiration for pearl and covered different aspects of pearl story-telling. kudos to the writer. I love this article! will keep it for personal reference.

Agree with nurain, great writer and article !
Thank You :)

Allow me to put into perspective the writings of Jerico Abila written in 2012 by posting the writtings of Paul E. Holewa (a gem-trade journalist in Thailand, and a former editor of JewelSiam magazine.) that were published for Japan Times on December 23rd of 2001.

Pearls, the "Queen of Gems," have perhaps the longest history of any of the precious stones. References to them first appeared in 5,000-year-old Hindu legends in which the god Krishna was said to have discovered them and given one to his daughter Pandaa on her wedding day. China's "Shu King," a history written ca. 2300 B.C., even differentiates between high- and low-end pearls, when a ruler quoted in the ancient tome notes that a lesser king sent "strings of pearls not quite round."



Later, these natural gems became all the rage in the Roman Empire. Wealthy Roman women were said to have upholstered furniture and decorated gowns with pearls, while top-drawer gems were valued so highly that the Roman general Vitellius was said to have financed an entire military campaign by selling just one of his mother's pearl earrings.

The Arabs were also enchanted by pearls. The Koran describes a paradise littered with them and emeralds. The Persian Gulf and the Arabian Sea, as well as the rivers of China and Japan's lakes and seas, were the tranquil sources of the historical pearl, which was a valued commodity along shipping routes and the Silk Road.

Much later, explorers in North America found freshwater pearls in the Ohio, Mississippi, and Tennessee River basins, where American Indians had harvested pearls and mother-of-pearl (the internal layer of certain shells such as the pearl oyster and abalone) since long before Europeans moved in. The United States later became an integral part of the global pearl trade, especially through supplying the mother-of-pearl nuclei which, mixed with traces of the mollusc's own mantle tissue, are used for culturing pearls.

A noodle-maker's son

Japan today dominates the pearl industry, in large part due to the pioneering work of Kokichi Mikimoto (1858-1954) in culturing pearls, the most significant modern development in the industry. By the early 1900s, Mikimoto, a noodle-maker's son from what is now Mie Prefecture, had secured patents on tools and procedures for cultured pearling and was harvesting the saltwater Akoya pearls (akoyagai) for which Japan is famous from the waters of Ago Bay on the Shima Peninsula.

The distinction between "cultured" pearls and "natural" pearls is an important one, although a cultured one is just as natural as any gem a mollusc might produce independently of human intervention. The difference is that, following Mikimoto, people began to farm wild molluscs (both marine and freshwater) and jump-start the process by which the creatures coat foreign objects finding their way inside the shell with a substance called nacre. Then, as now, high-quality pearls have small nuclei and thick nacre layers, and low-quality ones the opposite.

While the Japanese perfected modern culturing techniques -- Japan still leads the industry today -- the Chinese were probably the first to culture pearls. Centuries before Mikimoto, they inserted tiny Buddha statues into freshwater mussels to produce nacre-coated religious amulets -- though the practice seems to have died out after a few decades.

With the advent of mass-produced cultured pearls, their natural cousins had a difficult time competing in the market. Within a few years of Mikimoto's breakthrough, pearls were no longer the domain of the filthy rich, as evidenced by the absurdly long pearl necklaces beloved of "flappers" in the Roaring '20s.

Pearls today


Pearl-culturing technology has changed very little since the days of Mikimoto, but the dynamics of production have been transformed. Japan was the runaway leader in pearl production for many decades. But production began to fall precipitously in the 1990s as the "red tide" disease spread through mollusc populations, while intensive cultivation had led to high mortality rates among both freshwater mussels and saltwater oysters.

Meanwhile, countries such as Myanmar, the Philippines, Indonesia, Australia, Tahiti and China saw huge production booms in pearls of many varieties, shapes and colors. The popularity of the pearl had never been higher, and many countries -- particularly Australia and Tahiti -- grew increasingly independent of the Japanese culturing experts and distributors who had created whole industries from nothing outside of Japan. As the pearl market began to expand, the issue of overproduction came to the fore, especially in China, where last year's annual yield was roughly 1,200 tons.

Chinese pearl producers have dominated the annual saltwater Akoya harvest since the 1970s, while also guiding an explosion in cultured freshwater pearls. In the past five years, China's freshwater farmers have succeeded in the consistent production of large, quality pearls that compete in appearance with saltwater varieties at a fraction of the cost.

While Akoyas remain a staple of the pearl industry -- along with South Sea pearls harvested in Australia and Southeast Asia, Tahitian "blacks" and Chinese freshwater pearls -- Japan has increasingly moved toward being a processor of pearls. Japan's pearling tradition, infrastructure and skilled workforce all combine to make it the leader in various finishing techniques used to improve a pearl's color and surface appearance.

Much like Thailand's transition from gemstone producer to manufacturing and distribution center after its natural resources ran dry, Japan has maintained its position in the industry through both deliberate restructuring and the strength of its established manufacturing bases. As a result, it today handles about 70 percent of the world's pearl trade. So it is that the birthplace of the modern cultured pearl remains the world's pivotal pearl player, even as the dynamics of this unique sector of the gem and jewelry trade continue to change.
 
Thank You, very nice reading ;)

Most welcome, but Jerico Abila should have mentioned copying entire paragraphs from the article of Paul E. Holewa written in 2001. Sadly internet has become an unreliable source of information. Plagiarism is not an option for "quality journalism".
 
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wow, i just knew that blue pearl symbolise love! i hope tahitian grey blue is considered blue here...
 
Cyril,
I give you reputation points for almost every article you post here. Would you mind making a separate thread for each one? The reason is, I just reread the first article slowly and thoroughly and noticed a couple of minor errors among a really good introductory article, but is is not close to the first article, there is another one beneath it- BTW- it has a good explanation for how a pearl forms! No grain of sand mentioned!

1.The oldest pearl found is now known to have been in a properly excavated site by a professional archeologist, along the Persian Gulf. It is unequivocally 7,000 years old. It was found by Robert Carter, who subsequently wrote the massive tome called, Pearls, 7,000 Years of the Industry that Shaped the Gulf, a book so rich in photos and art it weighs about 8 pounds!
2.The "Pearl of Lao Tzu is a fraud. It was not found in the water by an American scientist. It was fraudulently taken from the local family that owned it, by a con man with promises to send money when it sold.
 
Cyril,
I give you reputation points for almost every article you post here. Would you mind making a separate thread for each one? The reason is, I just reread the first article slowly and thoroughly and noticed a couple of minor errors among a really good introductory article, but is is not close to the first article, there is another one beneath it- BTW- it has a good explanation for how a pearl forms! No grain of sand mentioned!

1.The oldest pearl found is now known to have been in a properly excavated site by a professional archeologist, along the Persian Gulf. It is unequivocally 7,000 years old. It was found by Robert Carter, who subsequently wrote the massive tome called, Pearls, 7,000 Years of the Industry that Shaped the Gulf, a book so rich in photos and art it weighs about 8 pounds!
2.The "Pearl of Lao Tzu is a fraud. It was not found in the water by an American scientist. It was fraudulently taken from the local family that owned it, by a con man with promises to send money when it sold.

Sure, I will just link threads whenever related or holding similar topics.
I believe I posted a thread related to item 1, that is found here: Link to thread related to 7,000 Years of the Industry that Shaped the Gulf. are we talking about the same piece? The CNRS was attributed the discovery...
 
I do not know who the CNRS is, but Carter led the expedition and took credit for the discovery in his enormous tome.
 
I do not know who the CNRS is, but Carter led the expedition and took credit for the discovery in his enormous tome.
CNRS
The National Centre for Scientific Research (French: Centre national de la recherche scientifique or CNRS) is the largest governmental research organization in France[1] and the largest fundamental science agency in Europe.[2] It employs 26,000 permanent employees (researchers, engineers, and administrative staff) and 6,000 temporary workers.
 
Cyril,
Thanks for catching me being sloppy. He doesn't mention participating in the dig, when I go back and reread. However he is an archaeologist working and living in the middle east. And he had direct access to the pearl. he held it. I jumped to conclusions.


BTW Thanks for linking these two articles.
 
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