purchasing vintage cultured pearls

[elisa]

I'm picking out my own graduation present (my mom is a generous lady!) and I'm wondering if there are any things I should keep in mind when shopping for vintage pearls (eg. any tell tale signs that a strand may be past its prime? do pearls have a prime? are older pearls worth more or less than newer cultured ones of similar quality? or is it like comparing apples and oranges? ), and if there are any disadvantages to buying 50 year old cultured pearls instead of new freshwater ones (eg. the freshadamas everyone on this board seems to adore ).

the strands I am considering are a 36 inch strand of 8mm pearls from the 50s ($3,000.00), and a 52 inch 6mm strand from the 40s ($1,000.00).

(I prefer an opera length strand I can wrap around twice/three times to an actual double/triple strand)

 

[Caitlin]

I would not want vintage pearls. Especially at those prices. Ones that old are likely to already be showing wear around some of the holes.

The vintage 30's and 40's pearls are akoyas and I have a bit of personal experience in how they wear. My fabled mother- in-law wore ropes of 30's and 40's pearls daily. When she passed them on, they really showed a lot of wear. Many pearls needed replacing and the new ones don't really match. Also the estate jewelery appraisers put one of her ropes at $1000. That was so he could resell it at a tidy margin. One of the grandaughters ended up with it.

Why not buy a rope of 6mm freshwater whether AAA or the touted freshadamas? They are not as fragile as old nacre, they will cost much less and you will be able to wear them everyday for the rest of your life without any pealing or worn nacre.
(Plus. freshadamas have the benefit of having orient- an irridecsent sheen on/under the surface.)

For the amount you specified, you should be able to get more one rope. Or a rope and some bracelets and earrings.

 

[john675]

I would agree with Caitlin. As a pearl gift-giver to my niece for her wedding, I went the route of providing high-quality freshwater pearls for the very same reasons Caitlin mentions. They really will be "pearls for a lifetime."
John

 

[pattye]

Hi Elisa,

I would like to ditto Caitlin and John, There are simply no advantages to buying older cultured akoyas at all, only disadvantages! For that kind of budget you could have very high quality pearls, build a fabulous core wardrobe, and have a wonderful rope, too, in either rounds or baroque. The other thing is that if you buy "used," you may not be able to return should you change your mind. All of the online sellers that are members here have generous return policies. Let us know what you decide!

Pattye
so many pearls, so little time

 

[danachit]

I agree too. This is one purchase where the word 'vintage' isn't an advantage...but a disadvantage. Why spend all that money for pearls that are on their last leg? Invest in something for your future...get some nice, new pearls!

 

[Raisondetre]

For that budget you can get the freshadamas! That'd be my pick. Those were my first high quality pearls ever and there's no going back.

 

[Valeria101]

Vintage pearls is very OK for all-nacre pearls. Otherwise, I am not sure if there is a way to maintain them and wear them often. Things about the pearls and thing about their up-keep seem just as important. And I have yet to see decades old nucleated pearls that have survived without any nucleus showing around the holes... and many are worse then that.

Some inexpensive new akoya are really not enduring at all. In that sense the older might be better... but 'better' doesn't mean 'best choice'. Given the choice, I'd go for untreated all-nacre.

I would imagine that there are degrees of 'endurance' and the thicker the nacre, the less temper with it ... the closer the pearls are to the natural product that is known to endure through historic time-frames. Other then this hunch, I have never found data about pearls and wear. Just a collection of stories, clues...

That's all I known for myself.

 

[elisa]

thanks for the words of wisdom! Despite my love of antique jewelry, I think I'll be pick out something brand new this time, and I'm inquiring about opera length freshadama necklaces.
thanks again!
Elisa

 

[Valeria101]

Despite my love of antique jewelry, I think I'll be pick out something brand new...

Wait a minute! If the pearls are new... the clasp (if there is any) could still be very vintage. A small pin could be converted by your jeweler (definitely ask first - it isn't a given for all), if no clasp shows up in time, they seem to be in short supply among antique jewelry offerings for some reason.

Just a thought.

Looking forward to seeing your pearl rope posted here!