Natural salt water pearls

[ewh]

Hi, i am new to this site. It has been very educational and thoroughly enjoyable for me. I am interested to know what tips people have in telling when a pearl is natural (not cultured in anyway.) many thanks and kind regards ewh

 

[jshepherd]

Welcome to the forum.

The only way to be certain is either through provenance (think pearls like La Peregrina, Gogibus or the Huerfana) or with lab certification. Any pearls without history have to be certified before they can be called natural.

 

[Lagoon Island Pearls]

Most natural pearls don't look anything like cultured pearls. They are generally smaller, misshapen and lack the surface quality.

Nucleated cultured pearls are most often opaque, where many naturals can be translucent.

The word natural is often applied to the color (unbleached or otherwise not treated).

As Jeremey suggested, provenance is paramount in trading in naturals. Time, location and species of the harvest is crucial information as is the history of the person dealing in them.

It's not generally not viable to certify every pearl because the cost is prohibitive, unless it's a magnificent piece in size, shape or appearance.

There are some gem labs who issue dubious certifications, so like the pearls themselves need the same level of scrutiny.

 

[ewh]

Thank you very much for replies. I understand about questionable certificates, i presume you are referring to keche pearls! I was taught to look at the structure of the pearls, ie, Natural has onion structure and cultured have not? is this right?,

When you say Natural pearls are translucent, are you also meaning Akoya ( sorry for silly question)

Regarding the provenance we try and buy from dealers, auctions and privates always subject to certs. But sometimes you may see something at a show or on travels where you have feeling it may be natural, but only experience, knowledge can determine this.

This is why i admire this site, as people are sending images for opinions and people are sharing there knowledge.

all the best you guys.

kind regards

 

[KarinK]

Hi ewh,

Akoya pearls are cultured pearls, not natural. There is a bead under the nacra, and these days the nacra layer on Akoya pearls is quite thin. If the word "natural" is used in connection with Akoya pearls it can only refer to untreated colour.

- Karin

 

[Lagoon Island Pearls]

I understand about questionable certificates, i presume you are referring to keche pearls!

Sometimes keshis are passed off as naturals, whether intentional or not. Shell stocks that are hatchery spawned or reared are aquacultural events, so even if they are incidentally or otherwise spontaneously formed pearls, they are by no means natural. For example, even if an animal in a zoo was conceived by natural methods, the offspring is born in captivity, hence not wild. Several countries have standards which imply naturals can only be called as such when they are formed "without human intervention, by any means".

I was taught to look at the structure of the pearls, ie, Natural has onion structure and cultured have not? is this right?

Although there are rare exceptions, almost all pearls have concentric growth. Much like the rings of a tree.

When you say Natural pearls are translucent, are you also meaning Akoya ( sorry for silly question)

Not a silly question at all. In fact, I thank you for it. Personally, I'm not aware of any specific trade in natural akoya pearls and if they exist, they are exceedingly rare or decades/centuries old. Naturals, keshis and freshwater pearls can pass light because they have no beaded nucleus. While opacity is not a single factor for determination, it is a point to add in their determination.

Even a single strand of naturals were likely selected from an enormous pool of pearls. I own thousands of naturals, but could scarcely match enough to make a child's bracelet, which is why I opt for solitare or few pieces in settings.

Regarding the provenance we try and buy from dealers, auctions and privates always subject to certs. But sometimes you may see something at a show or on travels where you have feeling it may be natural, but only experience, knowledge can determine this.

Provenance can come from anyone with reasonable credibility. Certification can be expensive, erroneous and prohibitive. Some labs have gone to great lengths to determine the subtle differences between keshi pearls and naturals, by noting the shape and opacity of the nucleus, but even at best, it can never be perfect analysis. Likewise, these are highly scientific examinations with sophisticated equipment out of the reach of a lay person.

I've seen some shady or grossly insufficient certificates in my day and a whole lot of unfounded claims about pearl origins. Not to mention deliberately misleading or fraudulent assertions. Unless you harvested the pearl yourself, you'll never really know unless your best instincts are coupled with reliable, responsible and objective overviews.

 

[ewh]

Thank you very much for your replies i really do appreciate all of your prompt answers! i guess we have to spend money on reputable labs for certifications. In the UK we have only one we trust, but many of our clients only want ssef, Is there any equivalents in the countries you guys are from?

kind regards