Japan pearls in peril amid recession, competition

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By Mariko Katsumura
MIE, Japan (Reuters) - Japan's akoya pearl industry, which began in the 1890s when Kokichi Mikimoto created the world's first cultured pearls, is facing collapse due to plunging sales and stiff competition from China.
In the small fishing town of Wagu on central Japan's Ago bay, about half of the 45 growers are about to close down their pearl beds after prices halved this year, sending them even deeper into the red.
"It's the end if you lose your passion for the work you do -- and I'm losing it," said Akihiro Takeuchi, 43, one cultivator of Japan's renowned akoya cultured pearls.
"We can't live like this. It's really unprofitable ... Akoya may die out completely in this town in a few years."
Saltwater akoya oyster pearls have long been a benchmark of quality in the industry, with domestic production peaking at 88.5 billion yen ($900 million) in 1990.
But by 2008, output had fallen to one-fifth of that.
First, a "red tide" of deadly phytoplankton washed in each year in the mid-1990s, killing two-thirds of the country's akoya oysters. Then the market was flooded with less expensive Chinese freshwater pearls.
At the same time, young people's tastes have shifted to more casual accessories.
The current recession -- the country's deepest in decades -- could be the last straw. Loss-making jeweler Tasaki Pearl (7968.T: Quote, Profile, Research, Stock Buzz) has closed seven of its eight pearl farms in Japan this year, and U.S. upscale retailer Tiffany & Co (TIF.N: Quote, Profile, Research, Stock Buzz) has announced plans to end its pearl-only store outlets.
In Wagu, young growers have already drifted away, while their elders see little hope of survival after this year's open tender, which was delayed by a month, resulted in a 50 percent drop in prices.
"Those who can quit are lucky, but many can't because they've got bank debts from the past," said Makoto Yamamoto, president of the Pearl Cultivation Fishery Union in Mie, where one-third of Japanese akoya pearls are produced.
"I was always optimistic in the past, even when we had the red tide, but this time I've got no ideas," the 74-year-old veteran said in an interview for the Reuters Luxury Summit.
SEEKING SURVIVAL
Chinese growers have succeeded in cultivating freshwater pearls as big and round as akoya and have been exporting them since the 1990s. Unlike akoya oysters, which can yield a few pearls, a single freshwater mussel can produce as many as 40.
China now has 50 times Japan's pearl production capacity and the pearls are much more price-competitive, according to Mikimoto director Takashi Shimokura.

There is also more competition now from South Sea and Tahitian pearls which are often bigger than akoya, attracting consumers especially in many western countries.
Japan's global exports of cultured pearls have tumbled 60 percent over the last 25 years, and the country currently imports more than double the amount of pearls it exports.
Since last autumn, the country's retailers have seen falls in sales of up to 40 percent at home and 70 percent overseas, a document they submitted when seeking government support showed.
The Japanese government unveiled in late May a 120 billion yen emergency package for small fishery companies as part of a supplementary budget.
But that alone won't help, said lower house member Norio Mitsuya, who also sits on parliament's Pearl Promotionary Group.
"They (pearl industry) must come up with more innovative ideas. Whining about competition won't change the situation because we can't stop the imports," said Mitsuya.
"For survival, the industry as a whole must seriously consider to whom they want to sell and how," he added.
Akoya pearl producers and retailers agree that they need to raise public awareness about the quality of their products.
"Not many people know the difference between saltwater and freshwater pearls and that the chance of cultivating a top-class akoya pearl is so small -- less than 1 percent," said Yoshimasa Ohata, president of Ohata Pearl Industry, a pearl processor that also owns oyster beds in Ago Bay.
Ohata said an increasing number of pearl stores, especially those on the Internet, are selling freshwater pearls without clear explanations of their origin as they can be sold at lower prices.
In an ominous sign, even the company that first gave the world the akoya pearl now appears ambiguous about its future.
"As the originator of akoya pearls, we do feel responsible for akoya, but there are also high-quality South Sea pearls," Mikimoto and Co's Shimokura said.
"We want to keep providing customers with high-quality jewelry, whether it's akoya, South Sea pearls or diamonds

http://www.reuters.com/article/GlobalLuxury09/idUSTRE5571WJ20090608
 
I'll be in Japan next week. I'll try to get word from our suppliers as to thier feelings about the whole situation.
 
Great article! It is truly un-nerving what is happening in the industry and it will be interesting to see how companies will respond.
 
It is indeed an interesting article.
I saw the most beautiful lot of loose akoyas last week in Hong Kong - Chinese grown, 9 - 9.5mm and with very deep lustre and a beautiful soft pink colour... they were amazing.
I think when change occurs we almost always jump up and down and think it is a bad thing, but truly, this is the evolution of our industry we are watching. Yes, it is sad for the individual growers, and perhaps for the culture and history of the industry, but change, everywhere, is inevitable. Even in China last week, there are many, many stories of farms closing down, others being closed (quietly) with "government assistance" (ie, rumours are they are being paid to cease production of poor quality pearls), and the showrooms I visited were, time and again, empty. This is a tough time for all pearl growers. The prices I saw on Tahitian pearls in Hong Kong would be enough to make Josh, and his colleagues, cry.

I think we also have to remember that, at the time, the Japanese akoya growers were the day's equivalent of today's Chinese FW industry. Change happens.
 
Agree Nerida, the only thing constant in this world is change... so might as well accept it, adapt yourself to it, and make the most of it. I know of a few pearl businesses in Zhuji closing down, and have seen shops in the pearl market in Beijing clearing out as well....Sad, but a reality.
 
I think Japan's pearl industry has been headed downhill for quite a while. The loss of Lake Biwa's pearls was a disgrace to Japan. And the other lake, Kasumigara (sorry for the spelling) is down to about 5 pearl operations. Japan needs to take a look at the whole pearl market and get more into the fancy freshwaters and quit claiming that every pearl that goes through its hands is produced in Japan. I also wonder if Japan's tendency to conceal many truths about akoyas, like who is the real inventer of the cultured pearl that two Japanese men got patents on,(hint- it wasn't Mikimoto) and disclosing all treatments, and disclosing how many pearls are sent to Japan from China, where they where grown. Japan's pearls seem to have risen out of a big lie and then collected many other lies on its path to the present. Japan needs to come clean. Not only its claims, but its pearl lakes, too.

China has so overproduced for so long, the lowly beader pearls run $1-$3 a strand at the shows. There are so many dyed pearls, that if China were to to reduce production of the circus pearls, the stuff in bags at the gem shows that never gets unpacked seems enough to last for years. The best pearls are 1% of the trade and gem quality pearls are .01% or maybe .001%. I think China needs to work on quality and reduce quantity.

I have empathy for the many workers and their families, but the pearl industry leaders really need to take responsibility for their history and their path into the future.
 
Caitlin,

Another sad result of this state of things is the paralyzing impact on consumers. As someone who is new to pearls and went shopping for some, I can tell you that it freezes you in your tracks when you read about such things as the quality problems, the undisclosed treatment methods, and the inflated prices of the name brands commonly available in most jewelry stores. The really surprising thing to me is how little most jewelers know about the pearls in their cases. Ask about nacre thickness and treatments and watch the blank stares you get in return. It all combines to shake buyers' confidence. This has to be bad for the industry. I was ready to buy a string of white beads and call it quits. My shopping venture did have a good outcome. I ended up with strands I feel confident about from vendors I learned about in this forum. But it took me a while to get there.

Lisa
 
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