Gimp

[Taylor]

Hi Beaders,
I have tried searching for the term gimp, but either it is too short or not in any thread, so I started one. Question: does anyone use gimp any more? Several old necklaces (pearl and otherwise) I own and have seen use gimp where the string meets the clasp, but none of the newer ones seem to.
What is the value of having it or not?
Gimp is a tiny coil like a spring that fits over the clasp loop and over which the string is wound. (Feel free to correct my definition.) I think it made the strand move more freely???
I, too, am very unhappy with how my pearls were re-strung and want to learn to do it myself by starting with beading FW pearls and beads for little gifts.

 

[marikita]

I've never really seen too many strands that don't use gimp. I always thought of it as an essential part of (re-)stringing. From what I understand it prevents the silk from wearing through.

Personally I don't use silk - I find it easier to use stainless steel cable and crimps... but I guess you'd call that cheating!

 

[pearltime]

Hi, Isn't gimp the same thing as French wire or bullion?

Karen

 

[Taylor]

Yes, now I see it is the same thing and when searching on french wire, I find all good necklaces should have this. Agree? But some of my old ones seem to have a cover of thread over the wire. What is this?
To cover or not?

 

[jshepherd]

A strand without the french wire is often indicative of either a low-quality strand, or an unprofessionally knotted strand.
Here is a great photo of it on Angela Carol's Site.

http://www.angelacarolpearls.com/French-Wire-Method-s31.html

 

[pearltime]

Are you speaking of a crimp cover?

 

[Taylor]

Hi Pearltime,
No, I don't think I mean a crimp cover... I Googled that and it doesn't look like what I mean. On several of my necklaces that have french wire, the tread passes through the coiled wire, the thread covered by the gimp goes through the clasp's loop, and the exposed thread goes back into the last pearl or last 2 pearls and is then knotted. But on 2 old ones the french wire is then covered with a wrapping or winding of silk thread so the wire is hidden.
I was wondering how to do the wrapping so that the coil isn't destroyed.

 

[jewel457]

A strand without the french wire is often indicative of either a low-quality strand, or an unprofessionally knotted strand.
Here is a great photo of it on Angela Carol's Site.

http://www.angelacarolpearls.com/French-Wire-Method-s31.html

Hi Everyone,

That's a strong statement! Rather Strong! Please take into consideration that there are other components used on the closer section. I.E., clam shell, bead tip. I don't believe one would want to place French Wire on the thread then run said wire through a bead tip and tie. A bit bulky, perhaps.

 

[jshepherd]

Maybe I should preface that statement with the mention that I am referring to classic strands, not designer pieces or beading work. I would consider a strand of pearls not finished with french wire to be unprofessionally strung. I believe the clam shell you refer to is a type of crimp, which would never be suitable for a high-end strand of pearls.

 

[Pearls_by_Angela_Carol]

Maybe I should preface that statement with the mention that I am referring to classic strands, not designer pieces or beading work. I would consider a strand of pearls not finished with french wire to be unprofessionally strung. I believe the clam shell you refer to is a type of crimp, which would never be suitable for a high-end strand of pearls.

Jeremy is correct. When looking at a classic strand of pearls, you will find the thread tied off in one of two methods. The cheaper way out is to just knot the thread directly to the eyelet on the clasp. This is usually indicative of a lower grade strand of pearls or worse, the manufacturer/retailer taking the cheap way out to save a few pennies in labor and material.

The second method is to use a French Wire. With the French Wire method, the silk thread at the end of the strand is threaded through about 1/4" of French Wire, then looped through the eyelet of the clasp. Next, it is threaded back through the last pearl and tied between the second and the last pearl. Alternatively you can also thread back through the third pearl also and tie off the silk thread again.

The advantages of the French Wire method are that it provides a very clean, finished look to the pearl strand and it also strengthens the end of the strand (both at the stress point of where the thread meets the clasp and providing extra strength through the second and the last pearl).

The "clamshell" or "bead tip" method is very inappropriate for a pearl strand. In this method you thread the cord though the bottom hole of the "clamshell" and tie a knot in the cord. After the knot is tied, you crimp the clamshell together and then crimp the "hook" of the bead tip through the eyelet of the clasp. The strength of this type of finish relies entirely upon the strength of the knot - as that knot is all that prevents the cord from slipping back through the hole in the clamshell. To help secure the knot, some cement can be applied to the cavity where the knot rests. This method work well with nylon cord, but not with silk.

There are other methods of securing a clasp to a string of beads, such as a crimp wire, or a cone, but the only one that is appropriate for pearls strung on silk thread is the French Wire method.

 

[jshepherd]

Cheaper? No. The professional standard, yes. That is just the way it is. Low-end goods come from Asia without french wire and with things such as the clam shell style finish. I know of no companies that deal in high-end merchandise that use anything other than the french wire. As a professional, anything else give the impression of a substandard product. And I am quite certain nearly all pearl sellers would agree with me.

 

[jshepherd]

With those types of pearls there would definitely be the exception. But how many pearl companies deal in strand of natural pearls? When talking classic, high-end, cultured pearl jewelry, it is always the french wire method. When beading or designing, anything goes.

 

[perlas]

Here's what I think.

It's funny how french wire has become an indicative of a high-end strand.

99.9% of the people still thinks that a blue box or a red box is indicative of a high-end strand. Some even still thinks that all pearls outside of these boxes are low-end. How else would they get away with sky-high prices?

They are just status quo.

Not so long ago and even now if you google the net, the mere mention of "freshwater pearls" is enough for majority of the people to assume "low-end pearls".

The quality of the pearls should be seen in themselves, not some fancy box, or fancy wire, or fancy clasp. Although yes, the boxes and the french wire do look professional and widely accepted as of YET, however, bead caps and clam shells are aesthetically pleasing as well.

French wire is available in Hongkong, so some booth vendors here uses french wire in low-end strands and even Mallorcas. Most though, string quality south sea and tahitian pearls without them. Heck, I even use french wire for my lowly beadworks.

I recently saw a fugly (conchiolin showing, some with tales, you know the works) akoya with a clasp in platinum and rose cut diamonds. The beauty of the clasp cannot hide the ugliness of the pearls. Vice versa, really nice pearls will show their beauty with or without the french wire, or the fancy box, or the fancy clasp, or even a fancy certificate.

 

[jerin]

With those types of pearls there would definitely be the exception. But how many pearl companies deal in strand of natural pearls? When talking classic, high-end, cultured pearl jewelry, it is always the french wire method. When beading or designing, anything goes.

Jeremy and Stephen,

very nice part-explanations for us laymen in the business of stringing but I would appreciate an explicit explanation of the starting and ending of a CLASSIC pearl strand that goes like this...

Use a twisted wire needle....or what? Size?
Last pearl - (jump ring)tip bead or clamshell then french wire over the eylet that goes into the clasp etc.

Before starting the first pearl begin with......
Glue?
Cement?
Threading back throug the last two pearls or what?
And where do I get 14 KK French wire or the wire You do use?
As I want to do the restringing myself these are important questions.

Appreciate a complete answer to that all-important question.

Beside the silk what could be used in pearl strands?
In my own creations of pearls with crystals: what kind of thread would be strong enough and durable (Swarowski crystals) to work with? And I mean to knot between every pearl or bead.....

 

[Taylor]

Wow, I thought this was going to be a simple explanation. But I have gleened these ideas: gimp does protect the silk thread and the back-through-the-last-pearl tie-off probably adds protection if the pearls have big enough drill holes. But there are other ways. All this tells me what I suspected: my pearls were badly restrung. I got the worst of all possible methods: graduated natural pearls with the very small ones at the end and the stringer still tried to go back through them. The knots look awful and I'm worried about the little end pearls cracking. Even so, no gimp/french wire was used, stark white thread was used on light golden pearls ....
It was a rotten job from the best and oldest jeweler in town, which isn't a big city but isn't a small town either. All of which makes me want to learn to do this myself. What if I were to add cultured pearls or FW pearls (or gold beads or something) right by the clasp and tie-off behind them rather than my little naturals?
Oh, one more thing. When I started this thread, I mentioned how some of my very old necklaces used gimp/french wire but instead of leaving the wire showing, thread was wound over the gimp. I've noticed that newer french wire is much finer, so maybe this isn't necessary anymore. Or this yet another technique?

 

[Pearls_by_Angela_Carol]

Taylor,

What you might consider is obtaining your own supplies and asking the stringer if they will restring your pearls to your specifications. You should be able to get silk cord anywhere from .35mm to .90mm (whatever size would be appropriate for the size of the drill holes you have in your pearls). You can also find it in a variety of colors so that you can match your pearls rather than using stark white. And you can find it in smaller lengths such as 6.5 feet rather than buying an entire spool.

Actually adding a gold bead as the last bead in the strand is not a bad idea. My personal preference would be to add a gold bead at the end rather than mix cultured pearls with naturals. This would also give you the option of using the French Wire method since the holes in 14K beads tend to be larger than what you would find in your natural pearls.

 

[Pearls_by_Angela_Carol]

Jerin,

This is actually another thread here that talked about stringing in general. You should find a lot of good information there.

https://www.pearl-guide.com/forum/showthread.php?t=279

 

[jerin]

The Start and Ending of a necklace

The Start and Ending of a necklace

Stephen,
thanks, I have read all about this. Still there is very little mentioning of bead tips or French Wire and I would like to get mor specifics so I know just what I need to restring my pearl necklaces.

 

[Bernadette]

Taylor
In answer to one of your points about the "Gimp" being wrapped in a thread - I understand this to be a really old concept that is rarely seen nowdays - it was done by some threaders for aesthetic reasons. I don't believe it has any structural advantages.

On "Gimp"
Yes theres different qualities types styles and materials. ranging from flashplated base metal (brass or nickel) through to "Karat\Carat" assayed precious metal wire (Silver - Gold - and Gold over silver). Finding a supplier might not be the easiest task - cant help much as I bought big years ago and haven't been tempted with a "Better" product since.

Classic set
A "classic set" would be strung using a natural fibre - knotted between each pearl (Visible knots or "safety knots" which are a hidden knotting)
Clam tips - Crimps - tubes - wires - and assorted craft items have no place when dealing with quality pearls.

Theres a growing trend of "crafters" taking their wirework processes and applying it to pearls without any appreciation of what the long term effects would be.

The process and materials has nothing to do with "cost" - there is no relationship in this instance between "Component Cost & Job Quality" - their is however a world of difference in the appropriateness of approach.

Natural Pearls

I disagree with respect on the comment about natural pearl strands using beadcaps and clamshells - in over 25+ years in the trade, and specialising in high grade pearls, I do not recall seeing a single strand done that way. And I havent had to resort to sacrilege in order to double the thread back through in finishing off. (But there is a secret technique in that I made my own needles for these jobs - and No, bribes wont get that secret past these lips) I will admit they where the stringing version of the "Olympic marathon" at the time - lots of hard work and careful planning.

 

[Satine De La Courcel]

Stephen,
thanks, I have read all about this. Still there is very little mentioning of bead tips or French Wire and I would like to get mor specifics so I know just what I need to restring my pearl necklaces.

Most beaders I know(save for some here on PG) including me do not use the fancier stuff for me it IS due to cost but I do comission pieces and people bring me the supplies they want used.. so I cater to them make suggestions but it is up to them to take it or not..

but for the re-enacting peole are really happy to just have real pearls most think they know quality but do not! but I am a beader not a jeweler and say as much. However I do make a point on trying to learn the differences!

there are several books out there about restringing.. that will tell you in detail how to do it (some posted on the other thread I know becasue I posted the name of one! ther are websites about as well. like the About .com that has instructions with pictures for stringing tht are easy to follow.... Just to let you know you will need to practice to get the technique toyour specs. one you "master it" it is wasy but it does take practice to get there!

Hope this helps

Ash