kojimapearl
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2007
- Messages
- 435
I haven't had a chance to check in on Pearl-Guide for quite some time... but I thought you all might enjoy this article written by Rudolf Voll aka "Pearl Admirer" (Fuji's father) from the Asahi Evening News Tuesday June 4th 1968.
I love unearthing his old photos and writings... such a legacy of pearls and opinions!
To the Editor:
It must have puzzled your readers to find in your May 27 (p. 3) issue that a world famous pearl company "might meet bankruptcy, if present circumstances (decreasing export sales) were allowed to go on," while on May 28 (p. 12) you report that the export trade in pearls "is picking up again."
In any event, it sounds incredible that a symbol of Japan's most unique and exclusive business should be mentioned in such an alarming report.
To the insider, however, it is simply the inevitable consequence of a one-color-policy, similar to the diamond retailers' one hoping to increase sales by outmoding previously sold gems.
The pushing of "blue-white" diamonds that rarely occur (and most of those are only called so) brought on a trend that could not be satisfied-- and entailed expensive advertising campaigns on the part of the Syndicate to brainwash the public off the new blue-white preference, and to teach them that the presence of "body color" makes for more fire and actually suits the wearer better.
Now the pearl industry's dilemma is similar but not as easily remedied by simple mind-changing. It should be common knowledge that cultured pearls from the ocean come in predominantly creamish, greenish and blueish colors. the white-pink tones that most retailers recommend as the only "right" color practically never occur naturally, but are a product of chemical change after harvesting the pearls.
Pearls are bleached by peroxide or other agents; they can be colored with water-, alcohol- or oil-soluble dyes. Some are even subjected to "bombardment" ("bakudan" is the industry's term) or to radiation by isotopes (for turning gold tones blue), or lastly by treating them with nitric acid to make them black. As in any other field, "what Lola wants, Lola gets."
At the root of the problem lies the fact that most importers in foreign lands are no pearl experts and, like any other businessman, are interested in quick turnover without much extra work of promoting. One found that the lighter colors were the best sellers, an hence demand was limited to just those types.
Since only the few naturally light-colored and the rather thinly-coated pearls could be "color-corrected" to suit the dealers' orders, the large bulk of fine creams, greens and blues that won't give up their original color to chemistry's endeavors were made practically worthless, and their original production costs had to be added to the few that could be turned white-pink.
The consequences are obvious: if the white-pink pearl is the only "right" one, as one can learn from the world's leading jewelers, then who wants the others? After all, pearls are ornaments and are not utility items. It all adds up to an increase in cost for the desirable few, which runs exactly counter to the industry's founder's dream of "putting a pearl necklace around every woman's neck."
Moreover, it does not take into account the obvious fact that very few women have white enough skins for the bleached white-pinks to look good on; actually the warmer skin-sympathetic cream tones would suit the majority perfectly, especially elderly ladies, who are the ones who could afford the cost of an expensive pearl necklace.
It follows that color is NOT the measure of quality, as we know that the presently most desirable one is artificially dyed.
Although the industry has done a sad job of nearly destroying itself by the one-color-policy, there is still time to change the tide and do a little work of re-educating.
When only one color is "The Thing," sales are kept small.
Women don't own one-color mink coats. They have dozens, all of them desirable.
Providing there are equal surface and luster conditions, no color should be discriminated against by a convenient quick-sale formula like "white-pink only."
In fact, when shown, most people like the gold and green tones because of their wonderful luster, but are afraid to buy because of the industry's disastrous policy of self-disqualifying its own fine gems.
--PEARL ADMIRER
Blessed to be busier than ever... and I hope you all are enjoying your pearls whatever color they are!
Cheers, Sarah
I love unearthing his old photos and writings... such a legacy of pearls and opinions!
To the Editor:
It must have puzzled your readers to find in your May 27 (p. 3) issue that a world famous pearl company "might meet bankruptcy, if present circumstances (decreasing export sales) were allowed to go on," while on May 28 (p. 12) you report that the export trade in pearls "is picking up again."
In any event, it sounds incredible that a symbol of Japan's most unique and exclusive business should be mentioned in such an alarming report.
To the insider, however, it is simply the inevitable consequence of a one-color-policy, similar to the diamond retailers' one hoping to increase sales by outmoding previously sold gems.
The pushing of "blue-white" diamonds that rarely occur (and most of those are only called so) brought on a trend that could not be satisfied-- and entailed expensive advertising campaigns on the part of the Syndicate to brainwash the public off the new blue-white preference, and to teach them that the presence of "body color" makes for more fire and actually suits the wearer better.
Now the pearl industry's dilemma is similar but not as easily remedied by simple mind-changing. It should be common knowledge that cultured pearls from the ocean come in predominantly creamish, greenish and blueish colors. the white-pink tones that most retailers recommend as the only "right" color practically never occur naturally, but are a product of chemical change after harvesting the pearls.
Pearls are bleached by peroxide or other agents; they can be colored with water-, alcohol- or oil-soluble dyes. Some are even subjected to "bombardment" ("bakudan" is the industry's term) or to radiation by isotopes (for turning gold tones blue), or lastly by treating them with nitric acid to make them black. As in any other field, "what Lola wants, Lola gets."
At the root of the problem lies the fact that most importers in foreign lands are no pearl experts and, like any other businessman, are interested in quick turnover without much extra work of promoting. One found that the lighter colors were the best sellers, an hence demand was limited to just those types.
Since only the few naturally light-colored and the rather thinly-coated pearls could be "color-corrected" to suit the dealers' orders, the large bulk of fine creams, greens and blues that won't give up their original color to chemistry's endeavors were made practically worthless, and their original production costs had to be added to the few that could be turned white-pink.
The consequences are obvious: if the white-pink pearl is the only "right" one, as one can learn from the world's leading jewelers, then who wants the others? After all, pearls are ornaments and are not utility items. It all adds up to an increase in cost for the desirable few, which runs exactly counter to the industry's founder's dream of "putting a pearl necklace around every woman's neck."
Moreover, it does not take into account the obvious fact that very few women have white enough skins for the bleached white-pinks to look good on; actually the warmer skin-sympathetic cream tones would suit the majority perfectly, especially elderly ladies, who are the ones who could afford the cost of an expensive pearl necklace.
It follows that color is NOT the measure of quality, as we know that the presently most desirable one is artificially dyed.
Although the industry has done a sad job of nearly destroying itself by the one-color-policy, there is still time to change the tide and do a little work of re-educating.
When only one color is "The Thing," sales are kept small.
Women don't own one-color mink coats. They have dozens, all of them desirable.
Providing there are equal surface and luster conditions, no color should be discriminated against by a convenient quick-sale formula like "white-pink only."
In fact, when shown, most people like the gold and green tones because of their wonderful luster, but are afraid to buy because of the industry's disastrous policy of self-disqualifying its own fine gems.
--PEARL ADMIRER
Blessed to be busier than ever... and I hope you all are enjoying your pearls whatever color they are!
Cheers, Sarah
