Cultured Pearls vs. Akoya pearls

[purepearls]

Don't let the title of this thread fool you! Because pearls are so popular, they are popping everywhere in different retail stores. One thing that I've seen consistently is the wording "Cultured Pearl Necklace" without ever describing which type of cultured pearl it is. I've posted about this shortly in another thread, but I think it deserves a topic of its own.

Nine times out of ten, when the retailer isn't describing what type of cultured pearl it is, it will be a cultured Freshwater pearl. There are many consumers who think that a cultured pearl is a "type" of pearl. It is a type if you are talking about cultured versus natural pearls. However, most pearls today are cultured. Most pearl "types" fall under the "cultured" pearl category such as Akoya, Freshwater, Tahitian, and South Sea pearls. In this scenario, "cultured" pearl would refer to all pearls involved and would not describe what type it is. The wording of "Cultured Pearl Necklace" without any descriptors implies that other pearls such as Akoyas and Tahitians aren't cultured and that's exactly what consumers are taking away from the message. Retailers are using this tactic in mass, especially in designer jewelry. Wording makes a big difference in perception! Ask what type of pearl you are purchasing if you are not certain what it is?

 

[OhioPackrat]

Saltwater vs Freshwater: How to tell?

Saltwater vs Freshwater: How to tell?

HI,
I am new to this group & need help! How does one tell the difference between saltwater (say, akoya) versus freshwater pearls?? Now that people are culturing freshwater in round shapes I have seen people selling what they call akoya pearls & when I look at them my mind/heart says they are freshwater! Maybe the seller was sold them incorrectly labeled or maybe the seller is trying to rip off their buyers!
I have noticed that alot of freshwater seem to be a lot whiter in colour than saltwater (mainly akoya, I guess) pearls, am I correct?
I own some pearl books by such as; Newmann, Matlins, Taburiaux, & Shirai; but none of the books say how to tell freshwater from saltwater.
Please help!
Until Later,
Lorie (aka OhioPackrat) in Ohio, USA

 

[chriscrash]

Do not know what I should do. Can you help?

Do not know what I should do. Can you help?

I have what I believe to be a natural pearl necklace purshased by my father for my mother over 50 years ago in Hawaii. I remember my mother telling me they were the real deal not cultured and she was very proud of the necklace. They need to be restrung, but I am afraid they will be switched in the process. Do you have any suggestions?

 

[Zeide Erskine]

Restringing your natural pearls

Restringing your natural pearls

Hi,

The safest way to have them restrung is, of course, doing it yourself. Some jewelers and beaders also let you wait and watch while your pearls are being restrung, but that will cost substantially more, especially if they are naturals that have smaller drill holes and do require a slightly different stringing technique than the regular akoyas. However, if the jeweler or stringer has experience working with fine freshwater pearls they will also have the finer silk and know how to adjust their stringing technique to the smaller drill holes. However, please note that in the 50s and before cultured pearls where often called "natural" and faux pearls where often called "cultured."

The natural pearls of Hawaii where long gone by 1918 and rare before that. However, contrary to common belief, the natural pearls of Hawaii fished around Pearl Harbour were mostly pinctada radiata (.i.e. white) the black pearl banks where found later and never yielded much. Also natural black pearls from pinctada margaritifera tended to be rather small (in contrast to their big cultured cousins) because the mussel does not live very long and usually started developing pearls relatively late in life. I recommend Pearls of Pearl Harbor by Michael Walther as a short background read. Its such a short book that it hardly deserves to be called one. It has pretty pictures, though.

Zeide G. Erskine

 

[chriscrash]

Thank you for your reply.

Thank you for your reply.

What I have are a cream color and range in the size of 3mm to 7mm. The clasp appears to be silver or white gold set with small diamonds. From reading the forum I have learned alot more about pearls than I new yesterday. I guess the thing to do would have a gemologist take a look at them before I do anything. Can you recomend anyone in the Dallas area?

 

[Zeide Erskine]

Graduated strand

Graduated strand

Hi,

I don't know anybody in Dallas, but I am sure somebody else on the forum does. Given the style and size (3-7mm graduation) you are describing, they are in all likelihood cultured akoyas. You would probably do best by going to your local Mikimoto store or authorized dealer to have them look at your pearls. They are most likely Mikimotos since hardly any other Japanese pearl business survived WWII and having them restrung and authenticated by Mikimoto will give you a better resale and insurance value. They may also be able to treat them in a way no other jeweler can.

Zeide

 

[purepearls]

In reference to Zeide's post, I kindly disagree. If Akoyas and Freshwaters are the same quality (perfectly round, orient, well-matched, etc.) and all factors are equal, Akoyas are definitely going to cost more. Freshwater pearls are produced in mass and referred to as costume jewelry. Akoya pearls are the gold standard of pearls and pearl farmers strive to produce rounder Freshwater pearls that look more like Akoyas because Akoyas are more valuable. There is a large difference in the production cost between Akoya and Freshwater pearls. Akoya perliculture systerms are drastically more expensive than Freshwater systems.

In defense of cultured Freshwater pearls, pearl farmers have been able to drastically improve quality over the past few years which has increased the value of the Freshwater pearls. However, they still do not equal to Akoya pearls in roundness, luster, and overall value!

 

[Zeide Erskine]

High-grade freshwater pearls

High-grade freshwater pearls

Hi Amanda,

The high-grade freshwater pearls are produced one at a time just like akoyas and are just as round and just as lustrous. They are also exceedingly rare. Per total usable production of 1 ton (overall Chinese output) they make up about 250 grams, at least right now. In the collectors' market they fetch far higher prices than akoyas. The story of 50 pearls per shell does not apply to the top grade. Also, the top grade is cultured in high latitudes. They have a far lower protein content than freshwater pearls from Guangdong or Zheijang and thus much higher luster.

Zeide

 

[jshepherd]

Hello all,

I am on Hainan Island currently. I have been trying to get home for most of the day, but the foggy weather has not been agreeing with the flights. It is nice to finally be in a nice airport hotel, however, AND have an Internet connection!

I thought I would chime in on this thread just to make sure there are not misconceptions on cost (relating to what is on the market). Amanda is, I am sure, referring to 99.999% of the freshwater pearls produced today - the freshwater pearls that are sold on a regular basis. In this sense she is right - nearly.

I should preface this with the fact that I am on my way home (hopefully in a few hours from now), returning from a large pearl-buying trip.

My second stop was to buy freshwater pearls, and I went to Zhejiang, of course. While there has been a slight increase in prices due to the smaller output this year (more noticeable in the 9mm and up range), the top available grade is still far below that of the Akoya (which I just finished buying today).

I purchased several top freshwater lots this trip. I do not mean top strands - these are rarely composed of the best. I purchased lots of loose, un-drilled. A 9-10mm lot (true 9-10 HK Standard) which I was able to purchase was approximately 15 kilo. I separated less than 20% off-round (they always mix some in) and purchased the remainder. These pearls are round - truly round. Their luster is also very comparable with top-grade Akoya. The final price was similar to a top-grade lot (hanks, not loose) of 7-7.5mm Akoya. I also purchased two lots of 7-8 freshwater in the same grade - one white (post-processing), and another natural (unprocessed). The price was about 1/4th that of the 9-10, and much less than the top-grade Akoya although most would not be able to discern the difference.

So there is still a large disparity between the commercial production of freshwater and Akoya. The gap will probably close slightly over the next couple of years, however, as the FW factories are all forecasting smaller harvests (due to the previous price drops and subsequent drop in nucleation). BUT, there are freshwater that definitely compare to Akoya, and are round - perfectly round. As you can probably imagine I do not need 15 kilo of 9-10 earrings. I have contracted a factory in Zhuji to drill 90% of my loose lots for necklaces. I will have these strands back in less than 2 weeks. They will really be amazing.

 

[purepearls]

Yes, I'm just referring to the majority of Freshwater pearls that are sold today. I just do not want customers to get confused between the collector's market pearls and the pearls that are sold in most jewelry stores today.

 

[jshepherd]

They have always been available, but remember, we are talking Zhejiang. There is one company that I have very good ties with (the daughter of the 'big boss' is a very close personal friend of mine). I have helped them a lot with Tahitians and Akoya in the past. They wholesale materials to many of the factories in the Zhuji area. I have purchased this quality in small quantity for earrings in the past, but was able to get the entire lot this trip. I left all the drops and semi-rounds.

I am not sure what your stock looks like, but I would be happy to send you a strand when they arrive so you may compare.

 

[jshepherd]

I am a bit confused by this:

Per total usable production of 1 ton (overall Chinese output) they make up about 250 grams, at least right now.

Are we talking about the same thing? Chinese freshwater output was about 1500 tons last year, and estimates are currently at 1000-1200 tons this year with a drop under 1000 presumed for 2007 (totals for Zhejiang, Hunan, and Jiangxi). At least 30% of total output is considered 'good' enough for jewelry (although I beg to differ), and so much of the rest makes its way to designers and the like...

 

[Zeide Erskine]

Usable

Usable

Hi Jeremy,

Usable according to my definition is fine grade (not beading grade). What you sell is fine grade. So usable production would mean something around 100 tons per year. I already figured in the fact that other farms also produce some top grade but only by accident and projected that amount bringing the total to 25kg annual production of gem grade. Most of that (my estimate is over 90%) is bought up by direct buyers and never hits the open market.

Zeide

 

[jshepherd]

What do you define as gem freshwater? To me it is a round pearl with high luster and perfectly clean surface. I am making the strands simply because I have never seen them sold anywhere in China. I have stumbled upon a few strands in the past mixed with typical top-grade (strand material), but never enough to merchandise.
Speaking of gem pearls, I just finished processing our Tahitian drops and circles. I found one pearl that really caught my eye. It is a perfectly symmetrical drop from all angles - like a flying bullet. It spins without a flinch on either side and has a strong peacock overtone. I will have to post a picture of it. I won't be selling that one. I am just glad I caught it before we drilled.

 

[Zeide Erskine]

Cherry picking

Cherry picking

Hi Jeremy,

I see you are learning fast. Pick the cherries and sell the rest at a decent profit.

To qualify as gem quality, a cultured freshwater pearl has to be an eight-way roller, color has to be consistent, pleasing, and untreated (short of washing), and the surface has to be free of piqu?, cercl?, dull spots, peeling, flat areas, and bumps (of course also untreated), the luster has to have all three qualities of natural pearls, i.e. mirror, water, and orient.
Zeide

 

[jshepherd]

Home....at last!

You run a tight 'gem' ship over there Zeide By those standards a gem strand could never really be sold - other than the rare one in more than a million!
Just finding lots pre-treatment is a task. They do not wait long, you know. The 7-8 lot that I picked up was pre-treatment. I plan to polish them when I get them in (standard corn/oil), but no luster/bleach. The whites are a little 'naturalish' for the most part, but the multicolors I had put together look spectacular.

 

[Bernadette]

Restringing

Restringing

In reply to Chriscash - and in defence of fellow restringers.

The probability of a stringer attempting to substitute pearls during a restring would be a very unlikely proposition.

This is one of those urban legends - akin to watchmakers stealing the jewels from your watch during a repair

Restringers - jewellers - watchmakers live and die on our reputations anyone stupid & dishonest enough to try and gain a quick dishonest dollar from something as low as a substitution would not last long in the "Trade" and would be "marked" quite quickly by their peers.

In polite rebuttal to the suggestion to "restring it yourself" from Zeide as being "Safe" - of course that would be a 100% certainty that no foulplay could take place - however the risk that a defect in the stringing could result (assuming your not experienced in stringing) - would in my opinion pose a far more significant risk to retaining your pearls then having a professional perform this for you.

As I am not in the USA - I dont have a direct contact to sugggest - however most gemological or jewelers associations should be able to suggest reputable members for you to approach.

Regards Bernadette

 

[Zeide Erskine]

Restringing

Restringing

Hi Bernadette,

I am definitely with you on that one. Switching pearls, particularly exotic ones, is virtually impossible unless the stringer has an enormous stock of exotics just lying around. My remark of "doing it yourself" was semi-sarcastic because I do not think that switching pearls in a strand is something that can be easily done and learning how to do it yourself tends to give beginners more respect for the seasoned stringer. However, I know that many pearl owners do feel uncomfortable about leaving their pearls with a jeweler or sending them out for restringing.

Zeide

 

[Bernadette]

You got me there Zeide - better then game fishing for Marlin hey

I'm probably as passionate about my profession - as you are about your pearls. (Its my Irish upbringing)

Each time I hear repeated, tales and worries about substitutions, I see instant red instead of calm green.

Regards
Bernadette

 

[Satine De La Courcel]

I understand how upsetting it is for people who restring pearls for a living...
To hear all the unfounded horror stories... there are some unreputables out there but unfortunately it only takes one bad apple to spoil a bunch. everyone, I know are very honest and want to keep business coming back...... ans would bend over backwards to keep the customer....

One of the clsses I teach is how to string pearls.... and since most of the class can not get the knots right next to the pearl the first time it really does open eyes.