Coq-de-Perle

[Slraep]

Coq-de-perle was much prized for its MOP nacre and is the shell of a snail found in the East Indies. Only one "coque" is had per snail. It is thin and has to be filled in the manner of mabe half pearls.
Can some one tell me more about this? I saw a photo of a portrait of a Mrs. Marton in the Southhampton art gallery wearing a pair of fascinating earrings. I've also seen a picture of a double coq-de-perle necklace belonging to the wife of an American president of old. Anyone have links to any more pics?

Slraep

 

[Zeide Erskine]

Hi Danuta,

You can find coq-de-perle by googling "osmena" or "osmina." On eBay these snail apertures are often sold as mab?s although they are not actually a kind of atypical growth but rather a standard snail shell feature.

Zeide

 

[Slraep]

The osmena I googled were all typically white. The antique examples I saw pics of were almost orangey. Old texts say this shell is only from a certain type of West Indian snail, but the white osmena seems to be native to the US and under some type of non-export law.

Slraep

 

[Zeide Erskine]

Hi Slreap,

The osmenas on the market are mostly of Caribean provenance with about half of them white and the other half of them in the grey to blue range. The ones from the Indian subcontinent are somewhat more diverse in color and generally used in lower-end pieces since most Hindus and Muslim do not consider them pearls. They are still beautiful and actually quite rare. Let me head to eBay and find you some links.

Here's a gray one: http://cgi.ebay.com/OSMENA-PEARL-PE...ryZ92840QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Here's a white one: http://cgi.ebay.com/Exquisite-Desig...yZ110360QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Otherwise, the term coq-de-perle is also used to describe blister pearls of all origins and colors. Orange ones are probably Bengali padparadscha blister pearls.

Zeide

 

[pattye]

Hi Zeide,

In my beading collection I have a few of those osmena pearls set in simple silver mountings, but didnt know what they were! Thanks for the ZESPA lesson of the day.
I would love to see (and own) the padparadscha color blister pearls. Are those available at all, do you think?

Pattye Saab

 

[effisk]

The trial farm in Chittagong...

Hi Zeide,

This farm in Bangladesh, does it have anything to do with the FAO? I'm just being curious, I've heard about the FAO helping with setting up (pearl?) farms in the region, so I was just wondering...

 

[Zeide Erskine]

Hi FX,

No not really. Its primary goal is to produce carefully selected breeding stock for hatcheries that will then deliver to other farms. It also researches nucleation techniques and positions and optimal farm structures in terms of mussel density, raft location, line cultivation techniques, farm site selection, etc..

Zeide

 

[effisk]

Hi Zeide,

thanks.
it sounds like pearl culturing is well advanced in Bangladesh.

 

[Slraep]

Here is a passage I found in an old text. It is about Scottish jewellery. It also says that it is from a snail.


"Fresh water pearls from Scotland and Ireland are used, if not too gray, and a cheap variety is the coque de perle from the peri-winkle, rather than the oyster."


Slraep

 

[Slraep]

Another description from a French text that describes techniques used on 18th century jewels:

"La coquille d'un escargot des Antilles "le coq de perle" remplace la perle v?ritable."

Slraep

 

[effisk]

Hi Zeide,

Yes you are right, I guess the term covers a lot of ground.

Another description from a French text that describes techniques used
on 18th century jewels:

"La coquille d'un escargot des Antilles "le coq de perle" remplace la perle v?ritable."

Slraep

The shell of a snail from the Antilles named coq de perle, is a substitute for real pearl.

I'm not sure if "le coq de perle" refers to the shell or the snail itself.
Would that snail from the Antilles be Strombus gigas?

 

[effisk]

I'm a bit slow today.

I just realize "coq" (male chicken) is just a misspelling of "coque" (shell).

 

[Slraep]

Bonjour Effisk,

Merci pour la traduction.

What I have encountered is that it is spelled 'coq" in English texts and the proper "coque" in the French ones.

Slraep

 

[Slraep]

Would that snail from the Antilles be Strombus gigas?

Could be?

Slraep

 

[Zeide Erskine]

Hi Slreap & FX,

Typically the coq-de-pearl, when half-dome shaped, is the operculum of the very nacreous nautilus. Although conch pearls are very nice and all, their blister or attached pearls are typically not given much value. I now have to look up the anatomy of the queen conch, but I don't think it even has an operculum.

Zeide

 

[Slraep]

Turban shell? Some have an eerie cat's eye. There is an operculum. Popular in Victorian times.

Slraep

 

[Slraep]

I have since found out that the necklace I saw was most probably made up of chambered nautilus oval shell pieces or operculum.

The earrings are a lot more delicate and possibly the turban shell's or some other operculum.

Slraep

 

[pattye]

Hi Zeide,
Are there any pictures of those placuna sella? That would be so interesting to see.
pattye saab

 

[Zeide Erskine]

Hi Pattye,

I only know of a painting that shows an Austrian noblewoman wearing a double strand of pearls that look extremely transparent. Otherwise I have only heard of clear ones but never actually seen any or authenticated photos of some.

Zeide

 

[pattye]

Well, Zeide, we can hope that in our lifetime it will happen! At least a picture, and I know if you find one for your collection you will post a photo!!

Pattye