Antique Art Deco Pearls

[Kiev]

Hello,

New member here; glad to join the forum!

Here's a pair of sterling silver bangles I recently inherited. I believe they're from the 1930s -- Art Deco designs. They are unmarked however, the metal tests as sterling, and the pearls pass initial tests for genuine, uncultured pearls. Each measures approximately 7mm, the grey being slightly smaller.

I'd love to know your thoughts, especially on what types of pearls these might be...?

Many thanks in advance!

K.

 

[BWeaves]

Wow, they look so modern. Then again, Art Deco designs usually do.

 

[Lady_Disdain]

What makes you believe they are from the 1930s? Also, how did you test the pearls?

 

[Kiev]

Hi,

I have tested the pearls by the touch-test: pearl to pearl, as well as on teeth (touch has distinct resistance, not smooth). Also, I closely examined the pearls with 10x loupe for evidence of natural formation and shape, luster, overtone and orient. And they are cool to touch. However, I am not an expert; thus I have made my appeal here.

When I acquired these, I was told they were antique or at least vintage. Of course the modern -- or moderne -- design could be from just about any era of the 20th century, but given the information and the look, I believe 1930s. That said, my question is not so much with the design as to the variety of pearls.

Thank you for your time and attention!

K.

 

[Katbran]

Yes I'm surprised...1930's? Could have been made yesterday they are so in style !!

 

[GemGeek]

These pearls are most likely cultured. Perfectly round mabe' pearls need implants. Very nice, but they look fairly recent. Older pieces would have a higher chance of having a maker's mark and these have none, but you never know.

 

[Kiev]

Hello,

In fact, these pearls are not perfectly round. (I will post another picture that better shows the shapes.)

And in my experience, I've actually found the reverse to be true: older jewelry is more likely not to be marked. I have owned several antique pieces of fine jewelry that were unmarked yet tested as gold or sterling, etc.; conversely, almost all modern pieces seems to be marked in some way. But I agree these are a bit of a mystery!

In any case, can the actual color of pearls tell where they come from geographically, or what variety they are?

K.

 

[pearlescence]

Could be mabe but more likely to be cultured freshwater button pearls given their size, colours and shape. Grey does not usually appear in natural pearls (dyed or radiated) and white pearls are bleached.
Could indeed have been made yesterday.

 

[Lady_Disdain]

I would say that they are cultured pearls as well. Cultured pearls will also feel gritty, natural formation, etc. Natural pearls of this size and so nicely shaped would have been very expensive and not set in silver. The design and lack of marks also strike me as indicative of contemporary artisan silver, not of 1930s.

I think they are very pretty and look very well made (nice bezel work). Enjoy them!

 

[Kiev]

Hello again,

Thank you to all who have taken the time to comment; I am grateful for all opinions and information!

I am open-minded and learning…so, please correct me if I am wrong, but what I understand from our dialogue is that:

(1) All conventional methods for identifying pearls are fundamentally useless because at lest some varieties of cultured pearls will pass all such tests.

(2) Because of their extreme value, genuine uncultured pearls would never be set in sterling silver, regardless of historical movements in fashion and design.

(3) Gray and white pearls are not colors found in natural pearls — or, if so, incredibly rare.


As ever, many thanks!


K.

 

[Lagoon Island Pearls]

1- False. As one method fails does not suggest other methods fail. For example, x-radiography conclusively identifying bead grafted pearls. Likewise identifying non bead grafted pearls with patterns consistent with artificial processes at the nuclei.

2- False. Pearls are not limited any to pairing for detail (but for destruction). Metal or otherwise. Not all silver tarnishes.

3- False. The former is technically true, but nothing in nature is perfectly white, hence the point is irrelevant. On the latter, entirely false. In fact, I'd challenge your statement to suggest grey color is the common denominator across all species. FWP from China, Japan or any river. Tahiti, Australia, Indo-China, Persian Gulf, Sea of Cortez, Central America, Canada etc. all produce gray pearls.

It's possible these pearls are natural, but on first glance, they present as cultured. Near perfect symmetry is a concern which needs to be resolved. Although false on your second point, I'll agree settings in vintage silver may demerit natural origin, but not always. I've said it before and I'll say it again... the importance of provenance and sound scientific methods being the greatest precepts of pearl identification.

 

[Lady_Disdain]

The tests you describe can help identify a fake/artificial pearl from a natural or cultivated pearl. Separating natural from cultivated can be much harder.

Are natural pearls never set in silver? Never is a mighty long word. I would not be surprised to find natural pearls in silver by art jewelers, for example, or in diamond jewelry from the 19th century (although it would most likely be silver over 18k gold). These pieces, however, would show expert craftsmanship and other characteristics of fine jewelry. For example, I would expect a hinged oval bangle, which would guarantee that the pearls sit at the best stop and diminishes the chance of them banging around.

Your bracelets look like they were made by an artisan, such as you would find on Etsy or at a craft fair. Finding unmarked jewelry in both places is also quite common (unlike commercial jewelry). The craftsmanship looks clean and sturdy.

 

[Lagoon Island Pearls]

The grey pearl with the white (and other color) pearls are natural, borne of the same specimen.

The pearl with the dime is gray.

One could debate whether silver, blue or gray, silver blue or blue gray are different colors, but are a narrow band of the spectrum on the whole. The same analysis applies to white.

 

[Kiev]

Right. Thank you for the clarifications! I am grateful for all the excellent information.

K.

 

[GemGeek]

For example, some rings just made by artist Carlos Cabral in silver with Sea of Cortez pearls.

 

[JerseyPearl]

GemGeek, those rings are beautiful!

 

[Caitlin]

Hello again,

Thank you to all who have taken the time to comment; I am grateful for all opinions and information!

I am open-minded and learning…so, please correct me if I am wrong, but what I understand from our dialogue is that:

(1) All conventional methods for identifying pearls are fundamentally useless because at lest some varieties of cultured pearls will pass all such tests.
Cultured pearls are real pearls. They are grown in the "oyster", but with human intervention. That was actually settled in a French court in the 1920's.
Cultured pearls are NOT 'natural' pearls.
All real pearls, natural and cultured will pass the tooth test.
Fake pearls are manufactured from scratch and never see a mollusk. They do not pass the tooth test.

(2) Because of their extreme value, genuine uncultured pearls would never be set in sterling silver, regardless of historical movements in fashion and design.
Wild, natural pearls have been set in sterling, there is no rule. Even top of the line Mikimoto (cultured) pearls often had/have sterling clasps. As for couture fashion pearls today, sterling is the norm, not gold.

(3) Gray and white pearls are not colors found in natural pearls — or, if so, incredibly rare.
Not at all. Natural pearls come in about every color except lipstick reds. Few are true white, but many were shades of white. Gray is more common in the Pinctada Margaritifera (Tahitian) and the Pteria sterna (Cortez pearls)
All natural pearls are incredibly rare now.

As ever, many thanks!

 

[GemGeek]

Most mabes are cultured from pteria penguin are typically shades of silver.