Yens
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- May 18, 2024
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Saltwater bead cultured pearls dominating the global pearl market are produced by mollusk species in the Pinctada genus, including P. maxima (South Sea), P. margaritifera (Tahitian), and P. fucata matensii (akoya). The size and color of these pearls depend mainly on the mollusk species. The majority of white saltwater bead cultured pearls are South Sea and akoya pearls. South Sea pearls are notable for their large sizes, ranging from 8 to 20 mm, and soft satiny luster. Akoya pearls are well known for their round shape, high degree of luster, and attractive rosé (pink) overtone (very often as a result of processing). Akoya pearls are generally smaller, averaging between 6 and 8 mm in diameter, with those above 10 mm considered rare.
At the 2024 AGTA GemFair in Tucson in February, the author spotted unusually large round akoya pearls that were comparable in size to South Sea bead cultured pearls. These were on display at the booth of Yen’s Jewelry & Accessories Inc. (San Francisco). Eric Yen noted that the two strands in the figure above consisted of the maximum available sizes of Japanese akoya bead cultured pearls. Those in the top strand ranged from 11.0 to 11.6 mm, and those in the bottom strand were between 11.0 and 12.2 mm. Although the bead sizes were not specified, the cultivation process was presumably challenging and required extra caution due to the insertion of a large bead nucleus and possibly the need to nourish the mollusks for several years. Yen explained that these sizes for akoya pearls were extraordinary and multiple harvests were involved to create matching strands. Many mollusks die during the culturing process, which limits production and thus increases rarity and value. In addition to their remarkable sizes, the pearls appeared to have a rounded shape, a spotless surface, high luster, and an appealing rosé overtone.
https://www.gia.edu/gems-gemology/summer-2024-gemnews-large-akoya-bead-cultured-pearls
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